fuel problems
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fuel problems
ok. i got a 2WD '92 ford f150 flareside 302 5.0 with dual tanks. i've ran it off the rear tank ever since i got it and the front never worked. i hit the switch and it would just sputter and die. switch it back and it was alright well recently it just stopped working all together. i noticed that little noise coming from the tank when i turn the key doesnt sound anymore, so i figure it was the pump. i pulled the bed off and replaced the pump and still nothing, not even a noise. i even got another pump just to be sure i didnt get a messed up pump and still nothing. relay is good and the inertia switch isnt tripped. am i missing anything? could the filter be blocked to where the pump cant even pick anything up? or should it still make some kind of noise. any little thing will help.
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thanks for the reply. ok i found the eec test and it has five pins on the inside. then theres a wire with another pin hanging off the side. is this what you're talking about? ground it and turn the key?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
NO
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Did you try the other tank?
IF neither fuel pump will run you may have bad wiring under the fuel pump relays socket.
You could also have a bad fuse link by the start solenoid that hooks to it on the battery side.
Try stretching the fuse links and if it stretches it is bad.
Have tried resetting the Inertia Fuel shut off?
IF neither fuel pump will run you may have bad wiring under the fuel pump relays socket.
You could also have a bad fuse link by the start solenoid that hooks to it on the battery side.
Try stretching the fuse links and if it stretches it is bad.
Have tried resetting the Inertia Fuel shut off?
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oh damn. the inertia switch is stuck down. i dont know if it was suppost to be up or down to mean that it was tripped but it wont come up if it was. im gonna try stretching them fuse links
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i put a test light to the wire harness at the rear pump. the yellow works, the orange and brown arent lighting up. what are these wires for?
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
The yellow (yellow with a blue stripe) is for the fuel gauge.
The brown (brown with a white stripe) is power to the pump.
The orange is the ground wire for the pump.
You should also have a black wire and it is the ground for the gauge.
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The brown (brown with a white stripe) is power to the pump.
The orange is the ground wire for the pump.
You should also have a black wire and it is the ground for the gauge.
/
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
The brown wire with a white tracer is not getting power from the selector switch.
This may be because the selector switch is not getting power on the red wire with a yellow tracer from the inertia switch or the selector switch is bad.
This may also be because the inertia switch is not getting power from the fuel pump relay over the dark green wire with a yellow tracer or the inertia switch is tripped or bad.
This may also be because the the fuel pump relay is not getting power from the 20 amp fuse "O" in the engine compartment fuse box over a yellow wire.
This may also be because the fuse “O” is open, has a bad socket or is missing.
Any of the above may be because of bad wiring or plugs.
This may be because the selector switch is not getting power on the red wire with a yellow tracer from the inertia switch or the selector switch is bad.
This may also be because the inertia switch is not getting power from the fuel pump relay over the dark green wire with a yellow tracer or the inertia switch is tripped or bad.
This may also be because the the fuel pump relay is not getting power from the 20 amp fuse "O" in the engine compartment fuse box over a yellow wire.
This may also be because the fuse “O” is open, has a bad socket or is missing.
Any of the above may be because of bad wiring or plugs.
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so what do you recommend i do. i tested the sockets to the relays, all good. fuses good. these wires, should i snip them and test them? how do i check to selector switch and inertia. i dont want to mess anything up any more then they already are.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Ground pin #6 in the self-test plug and turn on the key.
Get a test light and start in the middle of the circuit at a plug, maybe the inertia switch.
This is called divide and conquer.
Then move to the next point, if you have no power at the inertia switch (dark green wire with a yellow stripe) go to the relay socket and check for power (on the dark green wire with a yellow stripe).
If you have power at the inertia switch (dark green wire with a yellow stripe) see if you have power leaving the inertia switch (red wire with a yellow stripe).
If you do not replace the inertia switch or reset it. If you do then go to the selector switch and do the same thing. Just follow the diagram above.
No you should be able to use a test light without cutting wires.
By using a test light and back probing each plug.
Get a test light and start in the middle of the circuit at a plug, maybe the inertia switch.
This is called divide and conquer.
Then move to the next point, if you have no power at the inertia switch (dark green wire with a yellow stripe) go to the relay socket and check for power (on the dark green wire with a yellow stripe).
If you have power at the inertia switch (dark green wire with a yellow stripe) see if you have power leaving the inertia switch (red wire with a yellow stripe).
If you do not replace the inertia switch or reset it. If you do then go to the selector switch and do the same thing. Just follow the diagram above.
By using a test light and back probing each plug.