Ticking/Tapping noise
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Ticking/Tapping noise
I recently started hearing this tapping noise coming from my engine similar to what a sticky lifter would sound like.
I've done some research and have gotten suggestions of: Fuel injectors; Exhaust leak; Cracked manifold.
I recently changed the oil and that didn't quiet it down so now I'm hoping one of youz guyz might have any other suggestion.-
EDIT: I have an '02 F150 Screw with a 4.6L and 156k miles.
I've done some research and have gotten suggestions of: Fuel injectors; Exhaust leak; Cracked manifold.
I recently changed the oil and that didn't quiet it down so now I'm hoping one of youz guyz might have any other suggestion.-
EDIT: I have an '02 F150 Screw with a 4.6L and 156k miles.
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Is it common for it to start ticking/tapping all of a sudden if its injectors? Would a exhaust leak at the gasket show soot or black at the leak site? Is it possible to pick a few boogers and put them into the engine to seal any cracks?
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That I don't know, I do know that the injectors tick. Not sure if they do it because of age or that's the way they were designed. An excessive exhaust leak is likely to show a visible sign where it is leaking from. If you go about fixing the exhaust leak, the quick fix, more than likely, isn't the right one.
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I read on another site that the tapping could me you're about ready to blow a plug. Well, it happened to me tonight. Heard a pop and then I heard compression. The plug was laying next to the hole with a COP blown apart and next to it. How do I repair that?
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i wasn't going to mention that because I figured that you may have known about that through your research, it is commonly found on here to be a common problem but it's something that happens to people on here.
the best repair is to replace both heads with updated heads that have more threads on them, this helps with the fact that there are 3 or 4 threads on the one you have, the new ones have more than that. it doesn't fix torque problems on the spark plug though.
another method is to remove the head, and do a heli-coil or time-sert on the spark plug hole. this involves drilling out the spark plug hole then threading a threaded cylinder into the spark plug hole that has threads for the spark plug. this job can be done with the head still on the truck but it's best to remove it to elimanate valve problem by possible hitting them with the drill bit or tap. to have the head removed you're probably looking at about $1000 of labor, then parts and other add-ons.
i've had my head removed to fix one hole and the only ticking i have now for sure is the exhaust manifold.
the best repair is to replace both heads with updated heads that have more threads on them, this helps with the fact that there are 3 or 4 threads on the one you have, the new ones have more than that. it doesn't fix torque problems on the spark plug though.
another method is to remove the head, and do a heli-coil or time-sert on the spark plug hole. this involves drilling out the spark plug hole then threading a threaded cylinder into the spark plug hole that has threads for the spark plug. this job can be done with the head still on the truck but it's best to remove it to elimanate valve problem by possible hitting them with the drill bit or tap. to have the head removed you're probably looking at about $1000 of labor, then parts and other add-ons.
i've had my head removed to fix one hole and the only ticking i have now for sure is the exhaust manifold.
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Well, I couldn't afford to have the heads removed and re-tapped so I got a $45 kit from Napa and so far so good. No more tapping/ticking. We'll see what happens after getting some miles and heat to it.
Now back to my one of my original issues of recovering the lost throttle response and get up from a while back. I think I am going to try a new MAF and see what happens. The one I have now has been sprayed with brake cleaner too many times to think cleaning it will work now. I already have an oiled air filter so I'm going to try an oiless filter but need to know what brand to go with.
Now back to my one of my original issues of recovering the lost throttle response and get up from a while back. I think I am going to try a new MAF and see what happens. The one I have now has been sprayed with brake cleaner too many times to think cleaning it will work now. I already have an oiled air filter so I'm going to try an oiless filter but need to know what brand to go with.
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I wouldn't be so sure. I have 156k miles and I replaced my plugs at 95k and then all of a sudden I started hearing this ticking noise and thought it was something totally different and disregarded the blown out plug theory until it happened to me last night. Now there is no ticking. I really haven't driven the truck under load yet so I hope it holds. I would be sure your plugs are tight before you get stranded.....although you can still drive it if it blows out but it will sound like JUNK, just unplug the connector to the fuel injector.
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About your MAF sensor. Instead of brake cleaner, there is a special cleaner for them called MAF Sensor Cleaner. At auto-zone, napa, advance auto, or any auto parts store has it. it comes in a silver can.
in terms of air-filters. go oilless, it will save your MAF sensor. Try OEM or a good aftermarket paper one. I personally use ones from Fram. they've done good thus far but the OEM ones are the safest bet.
in terms of air-filters. go oilless, it will save your MAF sensor. Try OEM or a good aftermarket paper one. I personally use ones from Fram. they've done good thus far but the OEM ones are the safest bet.
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About your MAF sensor. Instead of brake cleaner, there is a special cleaner for them called MAF Sensor Cleaner. At auto-zone, napa, advance auto, or any auto parts store has it. it comes in a silver can.
in terms of air-filters. go oilless, it will save your MAF sensor. Try OEM or a good aftermarket paper one. I personally use ones from Fram. they've done good thus far but the OEM ones are the safest bet.
in terms of air-filters. go oilless, it will save your MAF sensor. Try OEM or a good aftermarket paper one. I personally use ones from Fram. they've done good thus far but the OEM ones are the safest bet.
And I heard that the MAF cleaner in the spray can was less potent than brake cleaner.
