Dana 60 seals
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Dana 60 seals
Anybody ever replace all the seals in the D60 front axle?
I have one I will be installing and plan on replacing all seals while it is out.
I am probably going to replace the balljoints too before I install it.
Do you have suggestions on where to get seals.
I believe there are three, 2 axle seals and pinion seal. Am I correct?
Also two rear hub seals for a total of 5 in all???????
Are balljoints that hard? I can rent a tool to do it myself. Any recommendations?
I have one I will be installing and plan on replacing all seals while it is out.
I am probably going to replace the balljoints too before I install it.
Do you have suggestions on where to get seals.
I believe there are three, 2 axle seals and pinion seal. Am I correct?
Also two rear hub seals for a total of 5 in all???????
Are balljoints that hard? I can rent a tool to do it myself. Any recommendations?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Jamestown, Ohio
Neal,
I just replaced my inter axle seals and the pinion seal for my dana 60. I got all my seals from randy's ring and pinion because I had to replace the two outer stub shafts, the inter and outer spindal bearings, front hubs, and the seals. They were great to deal with and had good prices.
The install was not bad just took some time. I however have not had to do ball joints on this truck yet so I cannot say on that.
Let me know if you need anything.
I just replaced my inter axle seals and the pinion seal for my dana 60. I got all my seals from randy's ring and pinion because I had to replace the two outer stub shafts, the inter and outer spindal bearings, front hubs, and the seals. They were great to deal with and had good prices.
The install was not bad just took some time. I however have not had to do ball joints on this truck yet so I cannot say on that.
Let me know if you need anything.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
I saw the pinion nut torque is 240-300 ft./lbs.
Do you have a torque multiplier to do that torque?
Ahh. I have looked at ringpinion.com before. I will take a closer look at their prices. Thanks Blake, reps sent
Do you have a torque multiplier to do that torque?
Ahh. I have looked at ringpinion.com before. I will take a closer look at their prices. Thanks Blake, reps sent
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Jamestown, Ohio
Neal,
Thanks for the reps! I do not have a torque multiplier but my friend that owns his own shop does and I had him help me. If you want to make it quick and easy on looking up prices call randy's ring and pinion and don't bother with the web site. They can tell you exactly what you need and the price over the phone. I would much rather talk to someone than stare at a web page for an hour but that is just me. They can also tell you back lash and torque specs. if you need those things.
Thanks for the reps! I do not have a torque multiplier but my friend that owns his own shop does and I had him help me. If you want to make it quick and easy on looking up prices call randy's ring and pinion and don't bother with the web site. They can tell you exactly what you need and the price over the phone. I would much rather talk to someone than stare at a web page for an hour but that is just me. They can also tell you back lash and torque specs. if you need those things.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 189
From: Reno, NV
Neal,
Got my seals & bearings off ebay and went with XRF for the ball joints, tie rod & drag link.
Ball joints are definately do-able. The hardest part of doing the pinion bearing/seal was applying enough torque to the crush sleeve.
If the gears look good make sure you keep all the shims in order so you can install them the exact way they came out.
Got my seals & bearings off ebay and went with XRF for the ball joints, tie rod & drag link.
Ball joints are definately do-able. The hardest part of doing the pinion bearing/seal was applying enough torque to the crush sleeve.
If the gears look good make sure you keep all the shims in order so you can install them the exact way they came out.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
This axle supposedly came from a '97 that was burned back in 1997. The gears show absolutely no wear at all. It looks brand new inside. I mean brand new. The axle has sat around outside for 12 years now. That is why I am replacing all seals. Maybe even bearings since they are not that much more. Ball joints also just for giggles. The only sign of heat that I have found is one of the caps on the end was slightly melted. None of the rubber on the u-joints is damaged at all. I don't think they got hot at all. Balljoints are not melted either.
I believe she just needs a shower and a new dress before she takes on the town.
I believe she just needs a shower and a new dress before she takes on the town.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
how do you guys go about pressing the seals back into place? my axle seal has been leaking slowly for a while and needs to get fixed.
thanks
Mitch
thanks
Mitch
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 337
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From: Mt. Airy MD
I just got on FTE to ask the same questions. I just picked up a '93 Dana 60 and have it apart in the shop now, but i need to change the axle seals. Can I just ubolt and pull the carrier out change the seals and bolt back in? Do I need a spreader to pull it? And like Mitch said what are you guys using to press seals back in?
THanks
THanks
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
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I personally have never done ball joints myself on my truck, but my friend with the same truck and about the same mechanical skills as me (average), has done them himself.
All I know is by doing them your self your gonna be savin a good amount of $$$$$.
I'm on pretty good terms with a guy who owns a shop in town, he said he gets about a grand with parts and labor for ball joints. He did mine for $650 but I think next time I will be attempting them myself
All I know is by doing them your self your gonna be savin a good amount of $$$$$.
I'm on pretty good terms with a guy who owns a shop in town, he said he gets about a grand with parts and labor for ball joints. He did mine for $650 but I think next time I will be attempting them myself
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
I just got on FTE to ask the same questions. I just picked up a '93 Dana 60 and have it apart in the shop now, but i need to change the axle seals. Can I just ubolt and pull the carrier out change the seals and bolt back in? Do I need a spreader to pull it? And like Mitch said what are you guys using to press seals back in?
THanks
THanks
Take a look in the link I posted earlier for specs and diagrams. It is very helpful.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 189
From: Reno, NV
The seals are on the outside of the axles so you don't need to pull the carrier. I pulled a carrier this weekend on a rear and it is not that bad but not required for the seals. I have my D60 in the shop but not disassembled like yours.
Take a look in the link I posted earlier for specs and diagrams. It is very helpful.
Take a look in the link I posted earlier for specs and diagrams. It is very helpful.
There are inner axle seals that you must pull the carrier in order to change... They sit in the axle tubes just outside of the 'pumpkin'.
There are also outer seals that are optional to help keep the dust and water from entering the axle housing.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Billerica, MA
along with keeping all your shims in order your going to want to check your pinion nut torque before you take it apart unless your also putting in a new ring and pinion. if your using your original gears they will already have a tooth wear contact pattern so if your torque is greater or less it will end up with contact pattern and you'll be more likely to end up tearing up your ring and pinion.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
OK if they have inner seals I was wrong. I am sorry. I am still learning here. I get most of my info from here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
A good diagram of the Ford Dana 60 is here:
I saw no inner seals
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...20exploded.gif
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
A good diagram of the Ford Dana 60 is here:
I saw no inner seals
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...20exploded.gif
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
I was wrong. I apologize. They do have inner pinion seal as BaddogPSD said.
i just ordered:
2-innerseals
1-pinion seal
2-wheel bearing kits with seals
2-spindlebearing and seal kits
1-pan gasket
My next issue is the pinion nut.
73pwrstrk, you said to check the torque on the pinion before I remove it. How do I do that? Do I check it with torque wrench increasing the torque setting a little each time till I find where it moves?
I read that the Pinion torque is 240-300 ft./lbs. How do I get that much torque without a multiplier? BFtorque wrench?
i just ordered:
2-innerseals
1-pinion seal
2-wheel bearing kits with seals
2-spindlebearing and seal kits
1-pan gasket
My next issue is the pinion nut.
73pwrstrk, you said to check the torque on the pinion before I remove it. How do I do that? Do I check it with torque wrench increasing the torque setting a little each time till I find where it moves?
I read that the Pinion torque is 240-300 ft./lbs. How do I get that much torque without a multiplier? BFtorque wrench?