You need to buzz test your injectors with the scanner and/or do a cylinder contribution test.

I can tell you with about 90% certainty, you have a loose UVCH plug.

Get it down to Spokane, we'll fix it for you.

 

What he said. Also, trace the main wiring harness up to the plug by the driver side valve cover. Make sure those wires have not chafed through. I wouldn't worry about the chip for now. IDMs do fail but is is rare and usually something else, like a UVC harness or connection problem.

 

If you can get your truck started again, after you charge the batteries, with the engine completely cold, but just started up, feel the manifold on each side. If one side is cold and the other is warming up, then the cold side will be the one with the bad UVCH connection.

When I had to do my UVCH on my Excursion, I went ahead and just did both, even though only one side was loose.

Stewart

 

Put two new batteries into the truck. Cranked over nice and hard but wouldnt catch. Pulling valve covers tomorrow and putting two new harnesses and gaskets on tomorrow. If that doesnt change anything then its time to replace the idm. Any suggestions for removing them? Tips on what makes it easier? Wut about accessing the idm? Any tips on removing the wheel well covering? Thanks guys. Hopefully ill be back running by tomorrow.

 

I am concerned because you have gotten a wealth of advice in this thread and it seems apparent that you have not really listened to it. I has been suggested that you cj=heck the UVHC. Second after that it has been suggested, more than once, that you check the wire bundle that leads to the UVHC to see if its chafed on the valve cover and shorted out. AFTER checking those things and not getting anywhere, then move on to pulling the IDM. The best way to pull the IDM after you have ruled out the other options is to raise the drivers side of the truck and support it with a jackstand. Remove the front driver's side wheel and then proceed with removing the fender liner. Patience is key in this process. You do not want to make more issues than its worth. The IDM is essentially located behind your F250/350 badge on your fender. Remove the bolt(s) securing the IDM and then lift up IIRC.

But please, save us and you some time and start with the other items. The valve cover gaskets are reusable, no need to buy new ones.

 

I understand that the gaskets are reusable, but i figured if i'm going to be under there I might as well replace them. In answer to your issue with me seemingly not taking advice, I'm sorry it seems that way. I replaced the batteries (which btw were definitely bad) and that didnt make a difference. I would have checked the harnesses today, however it started raining after I got the batteries in so I couldnt keep working (truck is outside on a trailer right now). I have checked the harnesses on the outside as much as possible and havent found any place where there is a short. That is to say I havent found a single place where the wire loom isnt covering the wires. Maybe I wont be needing the wiring harness, but personally i'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Checking the IDM is the last thing on my list if I cant get it running before that. Unfortunately it is going to be a little tough considering I cant really jack it up and take off the wheel because its on a trailer.

Like I said before, Thanks for all the help and hopefully it will be the harnesses. Any tips on taking the valve covers off? seems like I almost will have to take off the AC coompressor, that true?

 

Try a universal joint on the socket. You can pull the fender liner without jacking the truck up and removing the wheel. Its just a PITA. I have done it before. You may just want to try loosening it up on the back half and peeling it back. Its up to you how much hassle you want to endure.

 

Just found this thread.
I'm 99% sure it's just loose inner plugs as well.
They will set the P1316 code if loose.

 

I'm with Dan, which brings my to why I want you to buzz the injectors. By doing that, it will tell you which size is unplugged so you don't have to do both sides right now.

If you get fault's with 2,4,6,8 injectors - Drivers side
If you get faults with 1,3,5,7 injectors - passenger side

This has personally happened to me on 2 occassions so like alot of people, we know what were talking about.

Oh and its unlikely the outter connection, its gonna be the inner connection under the valve cover.

Please read this article for further explaination and help.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-10.php

 

Why? That doesn't make any sense. They are reusable, so reuse them. Why spend money needlessly?

I dunno, I guess if you have money to burn, then you can justify it by calling it preventive maintenance.


You can check the harness, but in a lot of cases (regarding a loose UVCH), visually you can't tell it's loose. Neither of mine looked loose when I popped the valve covers off.

I wish I had your money to spend!!

It's pretty stright forward and easy to do. The AC compressor does not have to be taken off.

Stewart

 

When I had to replace mine, it was because one of the glow plug wires had rubbed against a pushrod and shorted that circuit.
The weakest part then melted, which was the pass-through on the valve cover gasket itself. It took the connector with it in the outer plug and I had to open it up, replace the connector in there as well in order to get all eight glow plugs to heat again.

 

Yep, then I'd go buy a replacement.

I just don't have the expendable cash like that to buy replacement parts for a reusable part, just in case.

I already have enough problems with money being scared of my pocket and doing the Ninja stealth exit when I'm not paying attention.

Stewart

 

ohm'd the connections. rear plugs were at 1.2-1.4 ohms, injectors were all between 5.4-6.2 as I come foreward, and the front two plugs tested at 6.4 and 6.7. pulling the drivers side VC and checking connection. Gonna replace the gasket and UVCH since I was able to get my hands on 2 new harnesses and gaskets for cheap. (gotta love dating the daughter of a diesel mechanic) In the process of taking off the passenger valve cover too seeing as the rear plugs on that one tested around 5 ohms, the injectors tested between 7 and 8 ohms and the front ones did not read anything. Hoping that this solves my problems.

I'm assuming that if it still doesnt start up I have a burnt out IDM...what do you guys think?

 

Glow plugs are not driven or related to the IDM at all. Since you have voltage issues at both the GPs and injectors, you have an issue with the UVHC being partially unplugged.

 

Bingo!