When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
EEC relay isnt relaying power to the fuel pump relay. If I jump the yellow to the pink/black truck runs normal.
Both relays are new, mystery 3rd relay guess a starter relay was also replaced with a multi purpose relay.
85 F-350 7.5L 460 - Dual tanks
Yellow - Hot (works)
Black - Ground (is grounded)
Pink/Black slashes - Comes from starter relay. It Y's off one end goes to the fuel pump relay normal wire, the other is the resistor wire goes to the EEC relay.
Red/Yellow slashes to back of engine EGR plate under carb or something like that..
Empty slot (unknown?)
2nd black wire in same slot as the Pink/black is cut and goes no place.
could be the red/yellow to the egr plate that not trips the relay? or the starter solenoid? or missing unknown empty slot? or the goto no place black wire?
Alright, what you are dealing with above is the Fuel Pump Relay, not the EEC Relay.
I'll explain step by step what the wires do.
Yellow - Hot (works)
Above wire comes from the Inertia Switch, and from the inertia switch goes to the starter relay. If this is working normally, then the inertia switch isn't tripped. Good.
Black - Ground (is grounded)
Correct, this is ground wire.
Pink/Black slashes - Comes from starter relay. It Y's off one end goes to the fuel pump relay normal wire, the other is the resistor wire goes to the EEC relay.
This is wrong. This wire powers the fuel pump. The wire comes from the fuel pump relay, goes through the resistor (.750-.030) ohms, and goes to a WYE at the connector. One end hooks to the Starter solenoid, (Starter side) and the other end goes to the fuel pump, or Fuel tank selector switch. The connection at the starter solenoid is the fuel pump relay bypass for starting.
Red/Yellow slashes to back of engine EGR plate under carb or something like that..
This is somewhat correct. It actually comes from the fuse Panel. (F-2) Goes to a splice (S-404) where it wyes off and one goes to the carb like you said, and the other goes to and through the Oil Pressure Switch, where it continues to the fuel pump cutoff relay.
Empty slot (unknown?)
It's just that, Empty.
2nd black wire in same slot as the Pink/black is cut and goes no place.
This is also correct, Circut 48 terminates in the harness according to the diagram.
Hayness has the EEC relay as so, and nothing about the FP relay:
Code:
red
lt grn/black
red/blue
yellow
None of my relays look like this..
What im thinking is or was the fuel pump rely has:
Code:
-----------------------------------------------
Pink/black slashes - power to relay from the other relay
Red -
brown/white stripe - when jumpped powers rear pump, but has loops out and to the tank selector switch (unsure)
Orang/blue - when jumpped powers front pump
And what im thinking is or was the ECC relay
Yellow - hot
Black - ground
Pink/Black slashes - power to other relay
Red/Yellow slashes - EGR plate
------------------------------------------------
anyway the sun has gone down here.. working in the driveway is done for the night..
thanks for your insight.. ill see if i can get a part number off the one relay thats original to the truck.
Ok, working in the dark now.. remove all the wires from the oil pressure switch and EGR plate (if thats whats its called) behind the carb. cleaned everything up tested everything with a self powered test light and hooked everything backup nice and neat. didnt work.. then jumped the 2 prongs from the EGR plate and like magic clicking from the relays. dont know if I have the right relays plugged into the right places or not (they all have the same 5 prongs), but atleast its working.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.