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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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87 F150 Starter Relay

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Old 11-17-2015, 07:59 PM
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87 F150 Starter Relay

OK all, I think I know where the problem is.... I just can't ID it. I currently have about 6 wires hooked up to my Starter Relay on the Red (Positive side) (SEE PHOTO) I am getting a hot line at my EEC that should not be hot and I think it is coming from one of the two lines on the right side of the group. These two lines come over to the battery area with the wire harness lights etc.. but I have three normal (fused relay) wires on my relay, with the red ignition line up top, and the starter line Negative) on the other side.
The two lines to the right are actually three , 1 Single black with what looks like it used to be a yellow stripe, and then there is a Black with Green stripe that is actually two wires that are spliced together about 8" back into the harness. I stripped the harness down, cleaned all connections, tightened them up as best I could and fixed any breaks that I could find. The "Light Harness" has a ground on each side of the truck up above the light on the fender. Are these wires supposed to be grounds? As soon as I tried to reconnect the Bl/Gr with power my relay fried... (I have more) but I need to figure this out any ideas? I have looked in my Haynes manual and I can't find the starter relay in any of the wiring diagrams....



First blue wire on left goes down to alternator, next two (double) come from wiring harness going into cab, last two on right are may problems? I think only one of them should be here maybe neither. Any advice would help, Thanks
 
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:59 AM
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Yes the headlights ground to the front of each fender.

Where is the ground cable going in that picture?
It should be going to the front corner of the engine block.

You have the EEC's black ground wire connected to the hot side of the fender mounted relay instead of battery- terminal.
 
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:15 AM
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Thanks ArdWrkTrk! But just to clarify, do you mean I should connect the Black wire to the positive post on the Battery? And which wire the single black wire or the double bl/gr wire? If it is shouldn't be on the hot side of the relay won't attaching it to the battery post be the same situation ... just about 8 inches different?
 
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:18 AM
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OK, I think I'm awake now.... do you mean connect the EEC Ground to the Negative terminal of the battery? Single black line, Double Bl/Gr or both?
 
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:39 PM
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OK, SUCCESS! I disconnected both of the black wires from the Starter Relay and connected one to the negative terminal on the battery and everything is working. Though I need to buy new relays now. When the Ignition pwers the relay the pump comes on for about 2-4 seconds, then it shuts off. Is that correct? I read somewhere that the pumps should only be energized about 2 seconds by the ignition switch, BUT I want to be sure I have it. I also have the other black line that is not connected to anything, but everything seems to work so I am seriously thinking about not connecting it at all. Any thoughts?
 
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:18 PM
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The pump will run for a second and then shut off.
If the distributor initiates a spark, the pump will run.(again and again)

Yes the other wire needs to be connected to the relay or the truck will not charge.
 
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:20 PM
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Starter Relay wiring?

Thanks for the response. My only remaining question is do both Black (grounds) got to the Battery negative terminal. After checking the relays and correcting the wiring, I now get (EEC, Wire 1 Black=Ground, Wire 2 Wh/Blue stripe= Ignition contolled current, Wire 3 Red = Output to Fuel Pump relay, and wire 4 Yellow = constant hot) on my Fuel Pump Relay, #1 is Black = Ground, 2 is Red input from EEC, 3 is brown, output to Inertia Switch/Pumps, and 4 is Yellow, contant hot)

I hooked up one negative to the Battery neg post and everything worked fine, I have not completely hooked up the other neg wire but I did just stick it on the neg post bolt to see if I got any heating up and I didn't see any. Unfrtunatley after turning it over once ortwice the relays no longer work and I am going to replace them, all the current is correct, but when I put the relays on I get no "output" I think they just gave out because I had been experimenting trying to get them right... I fried the out put wires on several occasions before I got it right. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help.
 
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