when do u need truck? i am 20 mins from BC.
rob

 

Much depends upon the inside diameter of the wheel opening. This has to be large enough to clear the full floating hub. Many desert racers turn down the hub and re-drill the hub flange to accomodate the pattern.
You desert guys look to "Ramsey" for your axle stuff. Heak, he has detailed this exact thing using the more desirable 14BFF axle. This becomes even easier with the 14B.

 

1961/67 F100's were available with a Dana 60. The wheels are the same as other F100's = 5 lug, 5.50" bolt circle.

I've never seen any Dana 60 with C-Clips. The last year Ford used Dana 60 rear axles was 1985.

C clips: 1983 and later Ford 8.8" // 1978 and later Ford 7.5" passenger cars, Rangers, Bronco II's and etc. // 8.7" WER 1967/78 passenger cars.

 

Those were semi float axles Bill. If the semi float axle were to be used, the 9 inch would be a much better choice. ChaseTruck754 suggested this, and run a custom hub for the front. This would provide the correct bolt pattern for the front and rear.
It appears that the OP has a full floating rear axle, and the hub itself is too large to fit through the hole in the 5x5.5" wheel as well as the bolt pattern being off.
The trick is to machine down the hub and re-drill the bolt holes to accomodate the smaller pattern. Unfortunately the machining removes some much needed material in the hub itself, and some strength is sacrificed.

Here is a set of front D60 hubs turned down to accomodate the smaller pattern. Jeep guys do this all of the time, but we dont see full size rigs doing this. Strength is just not there. Notice how thin the wall of the hub center is..........
Not sure why the Dana 60 rear is even being considered either. With 30 spline shafts, the 9 inch is actually a stronger choice with less weight.
Matter of fact, since the thing is already the correct pattern, this would be a much better choice. I understand about the desireability of the full floater, but a hybrid 9 inch full floater is not tough at all.
Might be why we see that in sooooo many race and chase trucks.
There is a reason why some things are common and some are not.

Forgot the pic:

Chart for semi float axles:
(Link actually)
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...mifloating.gif

The pic of converted hubs:

 

14B is what I am using on the crew cab. VERY strong and CHEAP to build.
As Ed said in the post just above this though - the 9" is a very good choice as well.
It all depends on what you want to spend and what you are looking to do with the truck.


Very soon. Taking this portion to PM.