Bed Floor replacement
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 1
Riderman, just kidding about the base of rust. I have some problems with my bed also. Right now I have too many projects going on this truck of mine but I need to stem the onslaught of the bed rust. I have a plan to keep mine in check until I can spend the time it needs to take care of it.
Sounds like your further along, good luck. If you look at the LMC cataloge for the bed parts there is a great exploded view of the construction of your bed. It may help you know where to point that skinny wheel. It looks like you could grind off the contact points and skinny anything hanging and lift the entire bed floor.
Sounds like your further along, good luck. If you look at the LMC cataloge for the bed parts there is a great exploded view of the construction of your bed. It may help you know where to point that skinny wheel. It looks like you could grind off the contact points and skinny anything hanging and lift the entire bed floor.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
Likes: 2
riderman, just kidding about the base of rust. I have some problems with my bed also. Right now i have too many projects going on this truck of mine but i need to stem the onslaught of the bed rust. I have a plan to keep mine in check until i can spend the time it needs to take care of it.
Sounds like your further along, good luck. If you look at the lmc cataloge for the bed parts there is a great exploded view of the construction of your bed. It may help you know where to point that skinny wheel. It looks like you could grind off the contact points and skinny anything hanging and lift the entire bed floor.
Sounds like your further along, good luck. If you look at the lmc cataloge for the bed parts there is a great exploded view of the construction of your bed. It may help you know where to point that skinny wheel. It looks like you could grind off the contact points and skinny anything hanging and lift the entire bed floor.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
Likes: 2
How much is the time and material worth? I ask because I have been working with a couple of fellas back there and have found that shipping is not all that bad. Building the skid and escuring a complete bed is the toughest part. Shipping becomes the most expensive and unloading it at its final destination can add up, but is still less expensive than trying to create a new bed from parts.
Out here in sunny So Ca, we have straight beds, in nice shape and no rust.
I see complete beds seeling for quite a bot of meny when you can find them and wonder why someone would not consider shipping one from out here?
http://www.freightcenter.com/QuickQuoteReview.aspx
Out here in sunny So Ca, we have straight beds, in nice shape and no rust.
I see complete beds seeling for quite a bot of meny when you can find them and wonder why someone would not consider shipping one from out here?
http://www.freightcenter.com/QuickQuoteReview.aspx
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
How many do you want? I have several. With or without fuel door(S).
Short beds or long. I can even produce long beds with provisions for race track trim.
I can get you a rust free bed.
You can pay for it in cash, or you can trade for a dana 60F. Im always willing to work something out.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
Likes: 2
How many do you want? I have several. With or without fuel door(S).
Short beds or long. I can even produce long beds with provisions for race track trim.
I can get you a rust free bed.
You can pay for it in cash, or you can trade for a dana 60F. Im always willing to work something out.
Short beds or long. I can even produce long beds with provisions for race track trim.
I can get you a rust free bed.
You can pay for it in cash, or you can trade for a dana 60F. Im always willing to work something out.
1k delivered to my home? Rust free with out the sides caved in?
No fuel doors required. 8 ft long.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
No fuel doors and no special holes for trim. I have what you need.
Lets take this to PM so we dont turn this thread into a swap meet and we can work out some details.
I can have pics early in the week. This bed is not at my shop yet, and will take me a day or two. I will also need to arrange a transport.
Hit me on a PM and we will get the ball rolling........
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
Likes: 2
No fuel doors and no special holes for trim. I have what you need.
Lets take this to PM so we dont turn this thread into a swap meet and we can work out some details.
I can have pics early in the week. This bed is not at my shop yet, and will take me a day or two. I will also need to arrange a transport.
Hit me on a PM and we will get the ball rolling........
Lets take this to PM so we dont turn this thread into a swap meet and we can work out some details.
I can have pics early in the week. This bed is not at my shop yet, and will take me a day or two. I will also need to arrange a transport.
Hit me on a PM and we will get the ball rolling........
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: South Berwick, Maine
cut your old bed INSIDE the seam, cut the new bed OUTSIDE the seam. overlap as needed and weld. very simple way to do it, worked well for me. now if your work is so sloppy you have to hide it with a bed liner well........
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
Likes: 2
I'm holding out for the rust free bed from Kalifornia....
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
Here in Rhode Island, I pickup 87-96 (97-98 F250) if I can find them in good shape. remove the bed sides, and install the 78-79 bedsides right on top of the inner panels. Takes about 100 spot welds to get the newer side off. But easy enough.
Just make sure when you cut off the 73-79 bed sides you save the tailgate posts. If your tailgate posts are beyond saving you can purchase repacement tailgate posts from LMC. They are thin metal, but once you weld up all the bed they are plenty strong.
These are different. Ive done 3 of these and a guy I met at a car show has taken my advice and done one as well.
Just make sure when you cut off the 73-79 bed sides you save the tailgate posts. If your tailgate posts are beyond saving you can purchase repacement tailgate posts from LMC. They are thin metal, but once you weld up all the bed they are plenty strong.
These are different. Ive done 3 of these and a guy I met at a car show has taken my advice and done one as well.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Here in Rhode Island, I pickup 87-96 (97-98 F250) if I can find them in good shape. remove the bed sides, and install the 78-79 bedsides right on top of the inner panels. Takes about 100 spot welds to get the newer side off. But easy enough.
Just make sure when you cut off the 73-79 bed sides you save the tailgate posts. If your tailgate posts are beyond saving you can purchase repacement tailgate posts from LMC. They are thin metal, but once you weld up all the bed they are plenty strong.
These are different. Ive done 3 of these and a guy I met at a car show has taken my advice and done one as well.
Just make sure when you cut off the 73-79 bed sides you save the tailgate posts. If your tailgate posts are beyond saving you can purchase repacement tailgate posts from LMC. They are thin metal, but once you weld up all the bed they are plenty strong.
These are different. Ive done 3 of these and a guy I met at a car show has taken my advice and done one as well.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
exactlly as pictured in the last pictures.