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Its shown in the first link I posted, how to run a self test, it is shown in the picture. Below the drivers side hood hinge, marked "spout connection" with a arrow pointing at it.
Should have a little red jumper there. It is removed when setting the base timing and then put back in place for normal operation.
Oh I'm sorry maybe its gray? I remembered a dull reddish color for some reason, either way sounds like its in there.
"332"? you removed the EGR valve so you're gonna get that one. You can just leave it off if you want, even add a eliminator for the computer so you get no codes. But myself I'd reinstate it. The benefit of it having it on there and working outweigh the reasons for eliminating one.
No, its on and pluged in but not going into the exhaust
The code for that is a little misleading, the way its worded. It doesn't actually monitor flow it just knows it didn't open or open far enough.
Could be a EVR problem or could be a vacuum supply problem, could be a faulty EVP or a combination of the three. The fact its not actually connected to the exhaust stream? no the computer wouldn't know that. "flow insufficient" yea right, it opened or it didn't on these trucks.
Hey thanks, im goona put an o2 sensor in and try it then
Even if the computer says theres nothing wrong with my throttle positioning sensor could it still be shot? I was looking around and found a thread and the guy had the same exact problem as me and it was the TPS. I have one on another plenum so ill try it either way. I also have a idle air bypass ill switch out quick.
I got 213 to go away. I did the test again and it wasnt 532, it was 632-
Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD), overdrive seems to work good
I got 213 to go away. I did the test again and it wasnt 532, it was 632-
Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD), overdrive seems to work good
You probably neglected to cycle the overdrive cancel button as directed during the test?
Even if the computer says theres nothing wrong with my throttle positioning sensor could it still be shot? ....
Just fyi I replaced my TPS yesterday. I did the two tests suggested here and detailed in the Chiltons book for backprobing it to get the voltage when the key is on/engine off for voltage at idle and WOT. Then the ohms test when the plug was disconnected. both tests were way off so I bought the TPS and the problems went away. I was getting the code 122. So just do those two tests and it will tell you if it's bad or not so you don't waste the money. If you don't have a multimeter they are allot cheaper than the sensor so worth it lol..
Also I was also getting code 128 for the MAF, but it was erronous as it was tripped just because of the TPS being bad.
Point being allot of codes can be tripped by another sensor being faulty or missing. Since it's a closed loop system the Oxygen sensor for the exhaust is probably the most important as it tells the computer what changes to make etc. I know on my car when this happens it goes into "limp" mode and basically cuts power drastically. As mentioned above I would get that fixed first...
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