You might ask how much he would charge to hook it up to a computer and give you the codes or test results. I'm not sure I'd want him to do the work. He'd probably try to sell you a few things you don't need.

 

can you find the leak in your valley or take some pics. It'f you're leaking oil that high up on the motor, that is probably your HP oil system which drives your injectors. That strikes me as something to track down.

chad

 

Thanks for all the help, it is going to be a couple of days before I can try any suggestions. The truck is going back to the dealer who replaced my transmission. The new tranny is now blowing out ATF all around the edges of pan where it meets the transmission. Of course, the whole underside of my truck is coated with ATF. I did stop by a shop and had a guy pull any codes that might be there. There were not any codes and he also did a buzz test and told me my injectors are fine. Soon as I get the tranny fixed, I will be back for some help.
Thanks,
Stuart

 

Chad's train of thought makes sense. If you are leaking HP oil at idle, you may not be getting enough to correctly fire the injectors. At higher engine speeds, there would be enough oil at pressure to do the job. Worth checking out.

 

If your not using oil in 3000 miles, then I doubt the oil leak in the valley will create a problem. Two things you can check for free, the ICP like mentioned and check the tin nut on the back of the IPR and make sure it hasn't got loose or fell off. I seem to remember a thread way back where the nut had fallen off and caused bad idling, but ran fine other times. Here's a picture of both.

 

UPDATE:
Ok. I think we got the tranny leak fixed. I tried pulling the wire on the ICP during the rough idle. The engine surged for about half a second and then returned to the rough idle. This also made the SES light come on. I reconnected the ICP, restarted the truck and the SES light went out. I checked the connection and the nut on the IPR and could find nothing wrong. I took the truck out for a long drive tonight, which is the first time I have really had a good chance to drive it with the tranny replace. I got away from traffic and went out on some rolling hills to see if I could really pay attention to what the truck is doing. I am now certain that it is just missing on one cylinder. The miss is there at all RPMs and it is only more evident at the low RPMs because it causes the truck to shake. It doesn't matter if it is 1800 or 2500 RPMs, the miss is definitely there. After is misses a few times there is a slight surge and it returns to normal. It runs like this: (R=normal running, M=Miss, S=Surge)= RRRRRRRRRRRRMMMMSSSRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRMMMSSSRRRRR RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRMMMMMSSS. The frequency of this occurrence goes up as the engine is under load, for examplem going up a hill. At low RPMs while in gear I can hear a definite knock/ping sound on one of the cylinders. Actually it sounds more like clack,clack,clack,clack. I double checked all the fluid levels. The oil in the valley is minimal. I could see no leaking around the HPOP. I would describe it as one cylinder is suddenly not receiving fuel. But I believe it is receiving fuel and I am seeing it blown out the exhaust in the form of white smoke. It is as if there is a short somewhere which results in that cylinder not firing. Any more suggestions?

 

Find someone with a scanner that can run a cylinder contribution test, injector buzz test, and monitor rotational velocity numvers (perdel readings). If you've got a miss across all rpm ranges and no CEL, you'll likely need a computer to find out which injector isn't firing right.

This assumes you don't have excessive blowby out the oil fill tube (smoke is ok, pressure is not). Oil level is full, of the proper type, and not past due for a change. And fuel filter and air filter are in good condition.

 

Ok. I plan to take it somewhere and have them do the cylinder contribution test. If this test shows which cylinder is malfunctioning what is this going to tell me? Is it going to tell me the injector is bad even though it passed a buzz test?

It will be next week before I can have the tests done, and I got impatient and decided to do a few things and I have made a few discoveries that may have some impact on what is happening.

First, I Ohm'd out the wiring harness from the IDM connector and tested the entire harness along with the UVC harnesses. Everything passed and averaged about 3.4 ohms and several other tests that should have shown an open line did just that. No apparent problems here.

Second, I removed the turbo tubes and removed the valve covers to see if a UVC connector was loose. I did find a loose connecter on the passenger side that I was able to re-insert. It was down on one side about 1/16th of an inch. I am not sure if this was the problem, but it was definitely not tight. More importantly, I could see what work the dealer had performed. The injector on the passenger side, closest to the passenger compartment, is a different type of injector than the rest. I believe this is the dreaded #8 injector I have read about. Also, there was the injector that I believe the dealer replaced which was a remanufactured injector and the top of it looked different than the rest of the original injectors. I was going to replace the glow plugs while I was under the covers. I had purchased the autolites and after reading the posts, I plan on taking them back and I have ordered the motorcraft plugs and will put them in next week when they come in. Until then the valve covers are off. Anything else I might look for or test while they are off?

Third, I began working on the fuel system because I plan to do the intank mod. I ordered the kit from ITP and it should be here sometime next week. Even though I had a new filter in the fuel bowl, I decided that I would pull it out and inspect things. The scary thing that I discovered is little tiny flakes of metal in the bottom of the bowl. These flakes were gold colored, like brass or gold. They were tiny flakes and pieces, sort of like looking into a pan when panning for gold. The flakes were in the bottom of the bowl and it appears they did not make it past the filter. I cleaned the fuel bowl and installed a new filter. Any ideas on where these flakes of metal may have come from? Bad fuel? Pump going bad? What could have caused this?

 

Hello? Anybody there? Any ideas on the metal flakes in my fuel bowl?

-Dropped the fuel tank this evening to start the fuel tank mod. I fought with the fuel line disconnect for over 45 minutes. Word of advise . . don't buy the plastic disconnect tools. By a metal one. When I finally got the tank open I could not believe what I saw. There was nothing on the filter screen but it looked like there were a couple of turds in the bottom of my fuel tank. I don't know if was clumps of mud or what, but the fuel tank is going to get a good scrubbing before it goes back on.

 

Alright, I am starting new threads with each question. . .

 

and you have not changed your CPS yet? i would change that for good measure considering they are like $20 and 10 minutes to do. They can make them do some wierd things. also, i know this may be maddening, but i would only do or replace one thing at a time so you can be sure of what finally fixes it. glow plugs should not be giving you these trouble this time of year in GA. maybe you get some smoke on start up but that's it. what kind of oil are you running? also for oil in the valley, check your ports to the High pressure oil galleys and make sure all are very snug. Many CPS failures never throw a code either. ditto on the dealer though, we can get you through this probably a lot cheaper than the stealer.

as for the crap in the fuel bowl, who knows. do the in tanks, also would recommend an HPX from ITP. had same muck in mine when i did my in tanks.