If you are going to pull the plugs, I would suggest that you let them soak overnight. Go by the latest TSB. When I pulled mine at 71K, I broke 7. The only one that came out was the one that I changed the next day and it was hard to turn all the way out. I too recommend the Lisle tool, it really works well.

 

I attempted to remove one of mine this weekend. I could not get it to turn at all! I put as much pressure on it as I was comfortable with (i was straining pretty good) and it wouldnt budge.

 

I think i may try to pull one this week. I just ran a half a can of sea foam cleaner thought the brake booster vacuum line, and let it sit 10 minutes. Started up and SMOKE, lots of it. probably smoked for 5 minutes or longer. I can tell you, It ran WAY better when it was all done. My hopes are that it broke up a lot of the carbon.

We'll see.

 

So if and when I do get these plugs out, what should I replace them with? Will anti-seize on the new plug threads help or hurt??

 

Just finished pulling my plugs! I did the whole nine yards with the Marvel Mystery Oil, the detergent fuel, etc. When I loosened the first plug 1/8 th turn, no noise! I then did the deal with the carb tune-up/cleaner, waited 15 minutes, then started to ease the plug out. To my surprise, I was able to unscrew the plug by hand turning the extension. There was no screeching or any thing like that. I just knew I had broken the very first plug. But no, the plug was whole. The next two came out the same way. Then I came to the dreaded #8 plug. When I loosened #8, it unscrewed so easily that I DIDN"T EVEN USE THE CARB CLEANER !! It too came out whole. I did, however use the carb cleaner on the remaining 4 plugs(driver's side) although I have doubts whether it was needed. Put in the 7989 Champs. Started the truck (2008 Screw with 24,000 mi.) it started right away, blue smoke at first, then a little white smoke, then none. Idles like a new truck.

Just some observations for those agonizing over this, as I had for the past several months. The most difficult aspects of this task is: 1) Getting into the contorted positions necessary to remove the COP retaining screws and the plugs themselves 2) Having the proper selection of ratchet extensions available, because it seemed that each and every bolt or plug required a different combination of extensions to get the job done 3) I highly recommend purchasing the special plug socket with the built on extension, it takes the wobble out of the loosening action and probably lessens the likelihood of plug breakage 4) I found it much easier working from the front of the truck by padding the bumper cowling with an old folded up blanket, kneeling on the blanket and kind of laying across the engine 5) If you do decide to go with the Champions, be advised that these require a 5/8ths plug socket so the 9/16ths socket that the Motorcrafts take won't work.

Hope this helps.

HYPO

 

Well after reading for a few weeks I tried changing my plugs. Parked it last night, blew plugs out this morning then allowed pb blaster to soak all day long. Got done working around 9 and decided to pull my work truck in front to start this deal. Got all eight threads and porcelin out but just one ground shield. So I got 7 shields to pull. I've heard lisle tool is best? what about the little vacuum cap things to push down there? Any other tips? Thanks

 

I hear lots of talk 'bout the 3V 4.6L and no mention of the 2V 4.6L...dose the 2V not have this problem cause I'm being told my 05 F-150 has the 2V motor in it???

 

Nope, 4.6L 2v does not have this problem. they are standard plugs. 3V 5.4L have extended reach plugs that gather carbon around the lower electrode and effectively 'wedge' themselves in the head.

FYI, 3V 4.6L did not come out in our trucks until 2009.

 

Good to know!!! This thread almost had order the lisle removal tool...you just saved me some $$$...