44HP help
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44HP help
I swapped my low pinion for theHP in my76 F250.
what im concerned about is the castor is right at about 5,but the t case is 5 degress up and the yoke on the diff is also 5 degrees up.
I cant turn the diff that will changed the castor.Will it be noticeably in 4x4 or not.Will a double cardon be needed.
How do the standard HPs yoke sit and is the married box pinion also 5 degrees as the divorced?
what im concerned about is the castor is right at about 5,but the t case is 5 degress up and the yoke on the diff is also 5 degrees up.
I cant turn the diff that will changed the castor.Will it be noticeably in 4x4 or not.Will a double cardon be needed.
How do the standard HPs yoke sit and is the married box pinion also 5 degrees as the divorced?
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Where are you getting the 5 degree measurement from? Caster is based upon the king pin angle and has little relation ship with the pinion angle. I know the c's and tubes are welded to the diff, but I have seen up to 3 degrees difference from axle to axle.
Using standard angles will only give you a reference when the vehicle is not moving. You should cycle the suspension to determine whether or not you will encounter a driveline angle problem.
The caster will only be critical to your steering,,,,, and while porportional to the driveline angle, one has little to do with the other. True that one cant be changed without the other unless the outer "C's" are cut and turned, but I dont recall your vehicle having so much heigth that this is a requirement.
By using a high pinion front diff, your angles should be much improved over your low pinion set up.
Since the diff is offset, the amount of travel that the front driveshaft has to endure is much more than the rear. That being said, you now have a high pinion axle that helps with the front driveline angles in an incredible way. I have uses single joints as well as the double cardan. In one case I was forced to use the DC joint to split the difference in u-joint angles.
Each truck can be slightly different based upon spring configurations and other variables, but the one thing that is a given, is that each suspension should be completely cycled to determine bind and angle while the suspension sees reqular suspension cycles.
Full compression and full extension cycles will permit you to see if there is enough slip in the joint, as well as determine whether or not there is any binding.
Larger joints can work at greater angles so keep this in mind when you are upgrading shafts. Larger joints are stronger and since they work, or can work at greater angles, you find yourself in a win win situation.
Yokes are available in many places, but I have had great luck in salvage yards. 1350 joints are large and are very strong. These larger joints can help with working angles if you are running smaller 1310 or 1310 joints.
Using standard angles will only give you a reference when the vehicle is not moving. You should cycle the suspension to determine whether or not you will encounter a driveline angle problem.
The caster will only be critical to your steering,,,,, and while porportional to the driveline angle, one has little to do with the other. True that one cant be changed without the other unless the outer "C's" are cut and turned, but I dont recall your vehicle having so much heigth that this is a requirement.
By using a high pinion front diff, your angles should be much improved over your low pinion set up.
Since the diff is offset, the amount of travel that the front driveshaft has to endure is much more than the rear. That being said, you now have a high pinion axle that helps with the front driveline angles in an incredible way. I have uses single joints as well as the double cardan. In one case I was forced to use the DC joint to split the difference in u-joint angles.
Each truck can be slightly different based upon spring configurations and other variables, but the one thing that is a given, is that each suspension should be completely cycled to determine bind and angle while the suspension sees reqular suspension cycles.
Full compression and full extension cycles will permit you to see if there is enough slip in the joint, as well as determine whether or not there is any binding.
Larger joints can work at greater angles so keep this in mind when you are upgrading shafts. Larger joints are stronger and since they work, or can work at greater angles, you find yourself in a win win situation.
Yokes are available in many places, but I have had great luck in salvage yards. 1350 joints are large and are very strong. These larger joints can help with working angles if you are running smaller 1310 or 1310 joints.
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