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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Cab work has started

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 12:02 AM
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Cab work has started

With the front clip fully painted and sitting away in a safe place I started today taking everything out from inside the cab and the doors. Put a whole week aside for this by taking off from work till August 31st. Learned a few things. The cowl trim has one 3/8" nut and the other side uses a barrel nut design which comes out in one piece eventually. The doors come off tomorrow to be put on saw horses for dis-assembly to a bare shell so both sides can be painted according to my two tone pattern and the inside rust proofed but it is very clean right now. Windshields out on Monday. Anti-rattler kit coming from DC and that was all I needed from him as I managed to acquire all NOS weatherstripping for doors, vents, windshield and back window.

All the old and cracked seam sealer needs to come out to have those areas wire wheeled, hit with Picklex 20, primed and then re-sealed. Luckily, while the stuff is terribly cracked there isn't a lot of rain in San Jose where the truck spent it's life.

This is going to be pretty much a one man job most every day with the cab painted inside and out after sanding and bre metal prepped. Hopefully I can manage to get the bed loose so I can at least pry it back a little so I can get to the back of the cab and front of the bed with new paint.

Will probably have someone come out to do the welds for me since there is no way I can learn how to do it in 3 days even if I bought a mig on Monday. Also don't have the time to assess if the 110 circuit in the garage will handle a 110v welder. A 220v would be nicer but that would mean putting in a circuit for it and there is no time for that as I would think a 220 dryer outlet is not good enough.

Of course first thing first since I ran the truck out of gas yesterday with all the moving around over the months and couldn't take it for gas with no front on it.. duh!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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Did you drill the door hinges with a 1/8th inch bit for realignment?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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I took the doors off leaving the hinges in the body so I sprayed paint around the 3 bolts top and bottom for alignment afterwards. Also have a tool that goes into the door striker and the door latch to level the door when putting the bolts back.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
With the front clip fully painted and sitting away in a safe place I started today taking everything out from inside the cab and the doors. Put a whole week aside for this by taking off from work till August 31st. Learned a few things. The cowl trim has one 3/8" nut and the other side uses a barrel nut design which comes out in one piece eventually. The doors come off tomorrow to be put on saw horses for dis-assembly to a bare shell so both sides can be painted according to my two tone pattern and the inside rust proofed but it is very clean right now. Windshields out on Monday. Anti-rattler kit coming from DC and that was all I needed from him as I managed to acquire all NOS weatherstripping for doors, vents, windshield and back window.

All the old and cracked seam sealer needs to come out to have those areas wire wheeled, hit with Picklex 20, primed and then re-sealed. Luckily, while the stuff is terribly cracked there isn't a lot of rain in San Jose where the truck spent it's life.

This is going to be pretty much a one man job most every day with the cab painted inside and out after sanding and bre metal prepped. Hopefully I can manage to get the bed loose so I can at least pry it back a little so I can get to the back of the cab and front of the bed with new paint.

Will probably have someone come out to do the welds for me since there is no way I can learn how to do it in 3 days even if I bought a mig on Monday. Also don't have the time to assess if the 110 circuit in the garage will handle a 110v welder. A 220v would be nicer but that would mean putting in a circuit for it and there is no time for that as I would think a 220 dryer outlet is not good enough.

Of course first thing first since I ran the truck out of gas yesterday with all the moving around over the months and couldn't take it for gas with no front on it.. duh!
your dryer outlet can handle a welder, i welded for years with my 220v mig running off the dryer outlet, even welding 3/8 plate i never tripped the circuit. Oh, and dont learn to weld on your ford truck, always use another type of vehicle for that.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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I also used my 220 mig on a dryer outlet for years without any problem. My Marquette "Buzz Box" stick welder woud trip it occasionally when welding heavy metals.

Kevin
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Holes fixed

Busy day today. Got the inside of the cab sanded top to bottom except floor pans so I can paint kick area, jams, roof, back, and dash. Got the inside of both doors sanded and the outsides stripped of all paint. All 19 holes were welded and the big one had a patch put in that I made. Tomorrow a little filler on those areas and then prime the doors first and in between strip the roof and drip rails.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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and done for the night
 
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