The Carter helper pump is still running but the stocker, she is dead.

I drained the DAHL 150, realized I ordered the wrong 10 micron filter, put the 150 back together, poured fuel into the top service hole on the 150, turned the key to prime, saw the 150 burb a few bubbles, turned the key off, back on with no stock pump sound. ScanGauge say 22.5 lbs. I turned the key a few times and jumped under the truck. CARTER is running, stocker is not. They both powered from the same source.

Stocker is $317 at powerstrokeshop.com. No shipping cause they are down the street from my office. The Fuellab is $350 at ITP. Guess it's time for a pump upgrade

 

Well..........................................
You gonna do the migration like I did or do something external.

 

pm sent.............................................. ..................

 

I replaced the stock pump with a Walbro GSL 392 - $120.00 at the time.

LINK to my Photobucket pump change.

Still $118.99 & free delivery from High Flow Fuel Sytems LINK

 

According to Jody, you want to go with a Bosch as a stock replacement. I stock these and the are better than the stocker and less expensive, win win.

 

just looking...

 

Wow I just read my opening post Sorry, the other 1/2 was talking to me about a patio furniture sale Like I care when the fuel pump on my truck is dead

If the Bosch is a Walbro, I'd rather not go that road. Some short research leads me to believe it may be. Which Bosch are you talking?

If you can deal a FueLab, please send me a PM with price.

 

And I'm reading a P0232 code.

 

Just a bad relay?

edit-- couldn't be "powered by the same source".

 

Got your PM.
Here is the thread that I started when I did the migration.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-the-tank.html

There are a couple of changes since I did that job and took those pictures.
The most important one is to cut out a square of plastic from, for example, an old antifreeze container.
Cut it so that you can wrap it around the fuel pump, extending up above the fuel pump by several inches. It's purpose is to protect the wiring from the sloshing fuel. What happened is I used too heavy of a wire for the power lead on the fuel pump and it was being moved around by the sloshing fuel. It eventually wore the eyelet connector enough for it to break in two, disconnecting the fuel pump. I was lucky in that the broken pieces "floated" against each other just enough to make the fuel pump stutter. It gave me enough fuel to make it back to the shop, but the engine was missing, hesitating. I thought the fuel pump was clogged or something and didn't realize what was really happening until I got it out of the tank. When I saw the broken connector, I realized how lucky I was that I didn't have to call a tow truck.

The fix (now more than two years ago) was to use 14g wire, then zip tie it down to the pipe every other inch.
Then use that square of plastic, wrap it around the fuel pump body, extending it upward like a chimney above the pump to provide a nice protected area for the wires. It stays nice and calm inside the tube and no sloshing.
Nothing else really has changed from the original installation other than that. It's been a VERY solid performer and the truck developes all the power that I need for the job that I have it for.
You might have read it in another thread, but I want to state it here too.
I was returning home from vacation last weekend and I tried out the 45hp medium tow on a 3-4% grade. I've driven that hill many times and I always had to shift down. This time I didn't, the whole rig just dropped a couple of MPH and then the engine just dug in and PULLED. Boost went up to 25 psi and the EGT hovered at around 1150-1200. The engine wouldn't have been able develope that amount of power on a continuous basis like that without a huge supply of good fuel.
The pump that I use is one for a 1983 VW gas engine Rabbit. They need a minumum of 30 gallons per hour flow rate for the K-jetronic fuel injection to function properly.
I've personally measured the flow from the pump that I have and it delivers twice that - 60 gph.
Or as this video demostrates: 1/2 gallon in 30 seconds.
http://good-times.webshots.com/video...ost=good-times

 

 

The Bosch part number for the pump that I used is 69430.
It will come with a check valve threaded into the outlet end of the pump that you will need to remove, drill out and discard.
You'll need the fitting for welding the steel pipe to. Then screw the pump back onto the fitting. Pump body is made of aluminum, so obvously the welding has to be done to the fitting.
Careful measurements of the dimensions from the top to the bottom of the tank will give you the measurement of where to cut the fuel pickup tube. I didn't want the mushroom to contact the bottom of the tank, so I cut it just so, so that it would float about 1/8" above the bottom of the tank.

 

And for educational purposes, here is my Webshots album of a Vanagon fuel pump that I dissected after it failed. It went 200k+ on gasoline.
Everything about the pump was still good except the commutator ring on the armature. It wore out so bad that it quit passing current and the pump died.
The brushes were still in good shape as well as the part the pumps the fuel.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album...ost=good-times

 

The only thing about the fuel lab is that you have to upgrade your line size, correct?
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Yes.

"NOTE: FueLab pumps require a MINIMUM fuel feed line size of 5/8". Use of a large diameter fuel tank pickup (like our 5/8" Pickup Kit) and appropriately sized fuel line HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Improper fuel line size can lead to pump damage and is not covered by the FueLab Limited Warranty."