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I unplugged my EGR now i have a check engine light. Will it hurt anything if i dont clear it???? Is there anything else i have to do like the throttle plate? i have an 06 f-350 6.0. ohh it did not go into limp mode either just check engine light came on. one guy told me dont try to fool the computer it eill mess up my turbo, that is the last thing i want to do cause problems. CAN IT HURT ANYTHING AT ALL???????? Thanks Robby
There is no problem with unplugging the egr valve, if fact I am little suprised it set a check engine light. Check the codes, should be p0403,p0405 because the valve is unplugged. Plug it back in, clear the codes. Then turn the car off and unplug it. See if the codes come back, they may or may not. Anyway, egr valves are a emissions related component, the vehicle will function without it.
There is no problem with unplugging the egr valve, if fact I am little suprised it set a check engine light. Check the codes, should be p0403,p0405 because the valve is unplugged. Plug it back in, clear the codes. Then turn the car off and unplug it. See if the codes come back, they may or may not. Anyway, egr valves are a emissions related component, the vehicle will function without it.
It will probably also go intto limp mode, why do you want it unplugged? just leave it plugged in or delete it all together, you cant unplug it on 05-07 models without it throwing a CEL.
You might not realize it is in limp or EPA mode. Mine would max boost 25-26ish unplugged. IIRC it locks the vanes in the VGT stationary and you don't want that either. Maybe jboczar or someone else can confirm if this is true?
It will probably also go intto limp mode, why do you want it unplugged? just leave it plugged in or delete it all together, you cant unplug it on 05-07 models without it throwing a CEL.
My stock '05 doesn't throw a CEL. But I plugged it back in after learning that the turbo vanes are locked into one position by the ecm when you unplug the egr valve.
unplugging it will send a code. and the pcm moniors egr continuously so it will always throw a code if its unplugged. also unplugging your egr cuts off all egr flow. because egr works at almost 100% at cruise your engine will run hotter at cuising speeds. ive explained this before with problems because people dont believe me but Exhaust gases are an inert gas and dont burn so when recyled into the cylinder it lowwers combusion temperatures cause it dilutes the air fuel mixture. so hotter engine more of a load on other engine parts. having egr is better then having no egr at all. oh and i got one final point to make. if you get caught messing with an egr system its a 10,000 dollar fine. egr systems are only to be removed or dissasembled if undergoing repairs. so not to be mean but would you rather play it safe or be cool and mess with things you shouldnt cause there are shops that turn people in for this kind of stuff. be careful man
Unfortunately you are in California, since they have the strictest emissions you might be better off not messing with it. Anywhere else it wouldn't matter, half the trucks I see have something done with the exhaust and I don't know one person that has ever paid a I fine. Unplugging will not hurt anything. We had a fleet of ambulances that got tired of egr related problems so they started unplugging the valves, those trucks run 20 out of 24 hrs a day and never set a code and never had a engine problem related to a valve being inop.
Limp mode, as people call it, will not be caused by an emissions related concern. I have never seen it. Now the newer 6.4's have all sorts of conditions that will cause the engine to derate,shut off, and even not start for a predefined period of time. The 6.0's were never that bad.
Last edited by jboczar; Aug 23, 2009 at 09:07 PM.
Reason: Limp mode
my vote is to plug it in and leave it. if you are still in warranty i wouldn't mess with the truck.
now my experience with it unplugged. my truck is an 05. unplugged the truck would boost to 22-23psi max. the turbo would spool faster at lower rpms. plugged in, 28psi. my cooler died about 9 months ago. i am out of warranty. i didn't have the money to replace it and i couldn't afford to have my truck down for a long period of time. i made my own EGR delete. truck ran the same as it did with the EGR valve unplugged. boost to 22-23psi. i also had P0404 and P0405 codes. is this limp mode i don't know. the limp mode theory has really never been proven. at least i haven't seen strong evidence. i have an SCT with custom tunes from Innovative diesel now. truck still boost a little low then what i think it should.
Wyatt's view on a hotter combustion chamber makes sense. so it there isn't anything wrong with your EGR system and your under warranty, i wouldn't mess with it. just clean the valve on a regular bases. run a good oil. the EGR system is a weak point in the 6.0, but if it isn't broke then don't mess with it. IMHO
New to the site but have a 04 F250 6.0. Recently had problems with degas burping. Turned out that the oil cooler was almost completely blocked with casting sand. I had it replaced as well as the egr cooler. (Old 03 round one) The cooler was pressure tested ok but replaced anyway. I did have a steel freeze plug installed in the inlet side of the cooler and tack welded with the result that no exhaust flow through the cooler under any condition. EGR valve still there and connected. So far (900 miles) no CEL but not able to check and see if it has thrown any codes that do not trip the light. Engine performance is exactly as before the repair. One other thing the plugged oil cooler was causing the engine fan to run constantly when under anything more than a light load. Now no cooling fan operation even pulling the boat on a hot day. If anyone wants to see the mess in the oil cooler email at janton02@comcast.net and I will forward a photo. I have also installed the coolant filter system (napa 1019 /filter 4070) so no chance of coolant contamination. After a few hundred miles the coolant is now a beautiful clear golden color. Easy install using the heater input line and returning to the degas via the 3/8 line on top of the radiator. About 75 bucks for the parts.
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