Power rear window broken, ideas?
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Power rear window broken, ideas?
Howdy all,
Did the quick search for "sliding window".
I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
Any ideas? Any troubleshooting?
1. Can I replace the motor myself? Average cost?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
Thanks in advance
Victor
Did the quick search for "sliding window".
I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
Any ideas? Any troubleshooting?
1. Can I replace the motor myself? Average cost?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
Thanks in advance
Victor
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
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From: N. Carolina
Common problem ... the cables binded in my 2005, and they're binded now in my 2006. I'd say it's a bad design.
Go to your dealer and order: 6C3Z-7823394-AA
You'll need your old motor and cables as there is a core charge for this.
Its pretty easy to replace .. just dont let the tension off the cables or you'll be back in the same boat again.
Go to your dealer and order: 6C3Z-7823394-AA
You'll need your old motor and cables as there is a core charge for this.
Its pretty easy to replace .. just dont let the tension off the cables or you'll be back in the same boat again.
New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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Maybe not the same issue, but I feel it's worth mentioning in this thread. My coworker had his motor to burnout at least once on his 2006 F150; I would think it is the same motor as the F250. The dealer told him there was an issue with the motor and they had been problematic.
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Thanks for all the responses and ideas.
IF it is the motor, a call to Boreman Autoplex in Las Cruces, NM has it for 304.24 if you bring the core. Casa Ford in El Paso, TX has it for 276.58 if you bring the core. No core is 30$ extra for each.
I am wondering if there is any other way to test this motor before just brinig it in. Can this type of motor lose its "tourque"? Even with appropriate voltage to the motor?
Any more ideas or instructions on how to replace this. I am mechanically capable to remove and replace but not a mechanic.
Any ideas on where to find a lower price?
Victor
IF it is the motor, a call to Boreman Autoplex in Las Cruces, NM has it for 304.24 if you bring the core. Casa Ford in El Paso, TX has it for 276.58 if you bring the core. No core is 30$ extra for each.
I am wondering if there is any other way to test this motor before just brinig it in. Can this type of motor lose its "tourque"? Even with appropriate voltage to the motor?
Any more ideas or instructions on how to replace this. I am mechanically capable to remove and replace but not a mechanic.
Any ideas on where to find a lower price?
Victor
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 367
From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
Just thought I would throw this out there for anybody interested, you can get a power slider from CR Laurence for about $400. It may be a better option that putting in a part that is known to problematic.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
From: N. Carolina
Thanks for all the responses and ideas.
IF it is the motor, a call to Boreman Autoplex in Las Cruces, NM has it for 304.24 if you bring the core. Casa Ford in El Paso, TX has it for 276.58 if you bring the core. No core is 30$ extra for each.
I am wondering if there is any other way to test this motor before just brinig it in. Can this type of motor lose its "tourque"? Even with appropriate voltage to the motor?
Any more ideas or instructions on how to replace this. I am mechanically capable to remove and replace but not a mechanic.
Any ideas on where to find a lower price?
Victor
IF it is the motor, a call to Boreman Autoplex in Las Cruces, NM has it for 304.24 if you bring the core. Casa Ford in El Paso, TX has it for 276.58 if you bring the core. No core is 30$ extra for each.
I am wondering if there is any other way to test this motor before just brinig it in. Can this type of motor lose its "tourque"? Even with appropriate voltage to the motor?
Any more ideas or instructions on how to replace this. I am mechanically capable to remove and replace but not a mechanic.
Any ideas on where to find a lower price?
Victor
http://www.tascafordparts.com/ has 6C3Z-7823394-AA for $152.12.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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I am having a similar problem, the window opened but the cable came off the drivers side of the window. the passenger side feed the cable out in to a big loop. i was able to close the window by hand, my question for you all is..... what do i do now? i have a 2007 F250 Lariat
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
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From: N. Carolina
You can change the motor & cables (P/N 6C3Z-7823394-AA) ... it's not that hard.
Or, you can do what Ford says to do which is pull the back glass out & change the aluminum channel along with the motor & cables.
The core problem is that this is simply a bad design. I've changed two so far & the current one is dragging **** already. Its usually not the motor that fails, it's the cableing system ... when the tension get so high, it pops one of the heads off the cables that pull the glass open or shut.
The tension is sometimes caused by the glass debonding from the carrier and moving at an angle which creates excessive drag.
Or, you can do what Ford says to do which is pull the back glass out & change the aluminum channel along with the motor & cables.
The core problem is that this is simply a bad design. I've changed two so far & the current one is dragging **** already. Its usually not the motor that fails, it's the cableing system ... when the tension get so high, it pops one of the heads off the cables that pull the glass open or shut.
The tension is sometimes caused by the glass debonding from the carrier and moving at an angle which creates excessive drag.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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From: East Bethel,MN
Yes it is-Ford part #4C3Z-15422B30-BA...comes with power sliding window assy,wiring harness, switch,and directions on how to run the harness.The only thing you need to get outside of this kit is the dash trim piece. (directions give part #'s for trim piece based on vehicle options) Directions also tell you to check to see if harness is already present in 2004 & newer trucks!
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
You can change the motor & cables (P/N 6C3Z-7823394-AA) ... it's not that hard.
Or, you can do what Ford says to do which is pull the back glass out & change the aluminum channel along with the motor & cables.
The core problem is that this is simply a bad design. I've changed two so far & the current one is dragging **** already. Its usually not the motor that fails, it's the cableing system ... when the tension get so high, it pops one of the heads off the cables that pull the glass open or shut.
The tension is sometimes caused by the glass debonding from the carrier and moving at an angle which creates excessive drag.
Or, you can do what Ford says to do which is pull the back glass out & change the aluminum channel along with the motor & cables.
The core problem is that this is simply a bad design. I've changed two so far & the current one is dragging **** already. Its usually not the motor that fails, it's the cableing system ... when the tension get so high, it pops one of the heads off the cables that pull the glass open or shut.
The tension is sometimes caused by the glass debonding from the carrier and moving at an angle which creates excessive drag.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 903
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From: So Cal
Yes it is-Ford part #4C3Z-15422B30-BA...comes with power sliding window assy,wiring harness, switch,and directions on how to run the harness.The only thing you need to get outside of this kit is the dash trim piece. (directions give part #'s for trim piece based on vehicle options) Directions also tell you to check to see if harness is already present in 2004 & newer trucks!
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 25
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This same issue happens on my 05, every other month I spray in a good quality Lube and have no problems with it. It will take 2 people because you have to push the window open a few times to get the lube in. This is the stuff I use, tried silicone wd-40 and others but this works best. And can be found at sears, k-mart and others. Hope this helps.
Tom's Secret Formula B-404 Biodegradable All-Purpose Lubricant
Tom's Secret Formula B-404 Biodegradable All-Purpose Lubricant
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 422
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From: N. Carolina
My "advice" ... buy the repair part & change the motor/cables, do it yourself and save the labor. Keep everything lubed and hope it doesnt pop again.
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New User
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bought repair motor/track...now what
Howdy,
I purchased the replacment motor/cables/track. Been sitting in the house for 4 months. Now, the local Ford dealer body shop (Boreman Autoplex, Las Cruces) sent me to a local glass shop that does their work....glass shop has no idea what to do. Went to a local body shop who states it is 5.9 hours of labor at 42$/hr.
Any recommendations of where to take it. Also called Safelite, they do not do this type of work.
I purchased the replacment motor/cables/track. Been sitting in the house for 4 months. Now, the local Ford dealer body shop (Boreman Autoplex, Las Cruces) sent me to a local glass shop that does their work....glass shop has no idea what to do. Went to a local body shop who states it is 5.9 hours of labor at 42$/hr.
Any recommendations of where to take it. Also called Safelite, they do not do this type of work.