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The fuel pump regulator should be on the fuel distribution line, near where the fuel lines come up from the frame, rear of the engine with a vacuum line running to it. Round shaped.
Sounds like the intank pump is working, it's low pressure to fill up the resivoir for the high pressure pump on the frame.
Battery disconnect should clear codes but wait 15-30 min.
I think I know where the FP Regulator is but not sure, is it mounted just to the left/above the engine on the firewall?
No, but that one could be the MAP sensor.
The FPR is mounted on the fuel rail on the drivers side of the engine near the back.
It is round with a vacuum hose coming out of the top.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
I can only find one other fuse link, blue between the relay and the black part of the link and then red after that, but the wiring is so jacked up that they probably bypassed a couple and cut them off completely.
the blue part was the fuse link.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
When you say you couldn't find out what the other 2 would be for are you referring to the image I uploaded and labeled?
No you may not have any more than two fuse links there.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
So, the white with 2 blue stripes and the red are not supposed to be linked?
I can not say that but the fuse links in that location should have the same color wire on both ends of the fuse link.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
When I hard wired the in-tank pump I couldn't hear or feel it running. Is it noticeable when it kicks on if you're back there?
You should be able to hear it run at the gas cap with the gas cap off.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
Now that it's wired right we still don't have any increase in the fuel pressure so I think it has given up the ghost. However, we are running about 36lbs at idle..is that possible without the in-tank pump operating?
It may or may not be.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
And if it is, can you get away without it?
If the tank is over about a 1/4 tank, the HP Pump is primed, the Selector valve is lined up with that tank and you do not go up any hills then yes it will run OK without the in-tank pump.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
Also, are the yellow and black wires running out of the tank for the gas gauge?
Yes.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
Another quick question..how do you clear the codes so that we can re-read them and see if we've fixed anything?
To clear the codes ground the STI wire and turn on the key. When the CEL starts to flash remove the ground from the STI and the codes should be cleared.
Originally Posted by conradcliff
I did a search but couldn't find much, only that you need to disconect the battery..does it clear them right away when you do that?
That is not the right way to it unless you changed a sensor then you should do it that way.
Ok..so, we're back at it again and before I begin I just wanted to thank you all for the help you've given me and particularly subford for all the time you've put into writing up these replies, we truly appreciate it.
So, we've determined that the in tank pump is definitely bad..we're gona get to that a little later.
For now we are still dealing with the seemingly reandom non-starting issue...however, we think we've figured something out.
If we wait till the truck has cooled back down for a while it will crank up and keep on running, but if we try and fire it up right afterward it wont fire for even a moment.
What could cause it to keep from firing when it heats up? We have spark, we have fuel pressure, the fuel pressure drops a bit while cranking which leads me to believe that the injectors are opening and from a previous post I stated that they do have power running to them.
The injectors will have power on them (red wire) when the key is on and the Power Relay is picked.
The computer then grounds the other wire on the injectors to fire them.
Are you sure you have spark when it will not start and do you hear the selected fuel pump run for one second when first turn on the key when it does not start?
Most of the time when they do not start when hot it turns out to be the PIP sensor or the fuel pump.
Yeah, when I test for voltage on the injector wires it fluctuates from 0 to 5 volts while trying to start. We do get spark while trying to start and the fuel pump also is runing and we have good pressure..in fact, now the fuel pump wont shut off until we disconnect the battery.
Newbie question: What's the PIP sensor? (I may have asked this before but my brain isn't responding well right now)
"and the Power Relay is picked" does that mean the same as like switched..sorry, just never heard the terminology before.
Picked means the relay is on or made.
The PIP sensor is mounted on the distributor Stator and sends a information train to the ICM and also the Computer to tell the computer the position of the engine (where the rotor in the distributor is pointing) so it knows when to tell the ICM to fire the coil and it also knows when to fine a bank of injectors.
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