The first plug in the pic above is the TPS. If the connection is bad you will definitely have problems. The connector in the second pic goes to the idle air control valve (IAC) and it won't idle right, or possibly even run at all, if that's not working.

I am not sure if your fuel pressure is OK. 25 psi is too low, but the spec calls for 35-40 psi while idling. Not sure what it's supposed to be while cranking.

Looks you have a wiring nightmare on your hands too.

 

Ugh, that wiring's a mess. It seems that the fuel pressure is low, should be about 35 while running, then jump up to 40 when the vacuum is removed from the fuel pressure sender.

And guessing from the codes you've gotten I would suspect the distributor, rebuild or replace with a known good unit for testing. Then the fuel sock filter on the intank fuel pump should be replaced just because.

 

Wow, thanks for the quick replies you two!

I'll go get another read on the fuel pressure to see where it's at while running..

Is there any way to test the TPS and IAC before we go buy new ones? Do any of the codes listed point to those items?

What codes make you think that the distributor is faulty? We were able to get the timing in and it seemed to keep. We set it at 10 degrees, not sure what it's actually supposed to be at.

Is there a resource that will tell me the meaning of the codes? I will search for one right now.

Thanks again you guys, I feel like the puzzle pieces are coming together.

 

Ford Fuel Injection for the codes. Should be able to clean the IAC to the point of getting it running.

I think code 21 pointed me to the distributor. The stator went bad on my 1990 Bronco 5.0L engine, I had a heck of a time troubleshooting it. Finally just rebuilt the whole thing.

 

The 21 just means the engine was cold when he did the tests.

 

There should be three fuse links where the burned fuse link is.
Can you tell me the color of the wire going into the burned fuse link?





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Thanks, what's funny is that FFI is where I got the instructions on how to read the codes and the link to the codes was just under the instructions I was reading..didn't think to look any further for some reason..

Ok, so here are all the codes with their meanings..not sure what some of the lingo means so maybe you guys can help me out..

Code--KOEO--CM

14------------CM:Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. (well duh)

21----KOEO-----:ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts. (is this a temp sensor? Not sure where it is.)

31------------CM:PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts. (PFE or EVP, pressure feedback EGR, but how will it affect the engine? Not sure what EVP is, not sure where these are located..near the EGR I suppose)

41------------CM:HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)(Not sure where this sensor is located and if it is the sensor/wiring that is bad or an actual lean condition).

51------------CM:ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts. (thinking that this sensor is either disconnected or totally bad. Anyone know where it's located?)

63------------CM:TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts(I'm going to try and rig up the wiring on this and get some solid connections and see if it keeps giving codes)

81----KOEO------:Air management 2 circuit failure (AM2/TAD)(not sure where this is).

82---------------:Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB)(this shows up under the list as a KOER code only, but it was grouped in with the KOEO codes that I read from the EEC)

84----KOEO------:EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure(I can probably find out what the vacuum solenoid is, but, like most of the others, I'm not sure)

85----KOEO------:Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure(not sure about the location of this).

95----KOEO---CM:Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC senses infinite resistance to ground from the fuel pump on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit(perhaps this is part of the reason why we have low fuel pressure, what should we look for to fix this?).

As always, thanks a ton for any help anyone can supply!

 

Thanks subford..I'll go take a look..

 

Here's a labeled pic of the mystery wire...



We've temporarily misplaced our FPG..when I find It I'll go check the reading for the fuel pressure while it's running.

 

Ok, found the fuel pressure gauge..looks like we're running around 30 while trying to crank and 35 or a little more while running. The pumps..or at least the one that we looked at..we think is hard wired to an ignition hot wire. This is why we think we're getting code #95.

 

Is your fuel pump in the tank or on the frame? There might be two pumps, one low pressure in the tank and one high pressure on the frame. You should be able to run with the 35 psi. Does it go up when you remove vacuum from the Fuel Pressure Regulator?

I'm not sure how to troubleshoot the distributor, code 14, do you have a known good one to switch with?

 

ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature. It's on the front of the engine intake manifold near the radiator hose outlet.

 

The 14 could have been the wiring in the photo, Ignition Fuse Link.
You should have the Ignition fuse link 20 GA Blue and it has a red wire with a light green stripe at both ends of the 20GA blue fuse link.
Also you should have the Heated O2 fuse link there and it is also a 20GA blue fuse link with a Gray wire with a yellow stripe wire at each end.

There may be two more fuse links there also and one would have a big yellow wire at each end and the other would have a black wire with a orange stripe wire at each end.
I have not found out yet what these other two would be for yet.

 

Our book says there are 2 pumps..we're going to run a new wire to them. The guy that had the truck before us bypassed the inertia cut off by linking the brown and the pink/black wires. Something shorted out along the way somewhere because the ping/black wire is all melted. I think I know where the FP Regulator is but not sure, is it mounted just to the left/above the engine on the firewall?
No, we don't have another distributor..I figured that code 14 was being caused be all the poor wiring and general stalling out that's been happening.

Thanks!

I can only find one other fuse link, blue between the relay and the black part of the link and then red after that, but the wiring is so jacked up that they probably bypassed a couple and cut them off completely.

When you say you couldn't find out what the other 2 would be for are you referring to the image I uploaded and labeled? When we bridged those together the ignition started working again. Before if you tried to start with the ignition, it would turn over but not fire. We had to turn the key to run and then press a starter button that someone had hardwired in. So, the white with 2 blue stripes and the red are not supposed to be linked? They were connected before..the insulation of the blue wire between the two black boxes was just barely holing them together, the wire itself was totally separated.

I just ran a new wire to the in-line fuel pump and re-wired the in-tank pump. They had the pink/black and the orange wires spliced together for the in-tank pump. So I grounded the orange and wired the pink/black directly to the brown 12v out wire on the FP Relay.

When I hard wired the in-tank pump I couldn't hear or feel it running. Is it noticeable when it kicks on if you're back there? Now that it's wired right we still don't have any increase in the fuel pressure so I think it has given up the ghost. However, we are running about 36lbs at idle..is that possible without the in-tank pump operating? And if it is, can you get away without it?

Also, are the yellow and black wires running out of the tank for the gas gauge?

Ok, well I think that's about it...sorry for all the questions but thanks for all the help!

 

Another quick question..how do you clear the codes so that we can re-read them and see if we've fixed anything?

I did a search but couldn't find much, only that you need to disconect the battery..does it clear them right away when you do that?