I'll get some picts manana.... right now I gotta crash.....ZZZZZZZZZ..* good night * ZZZZ

 

Unfortuneally it sounds like the injector pump is giving up the ghost. Starting when cold, and not starting when hot is classic. You can pour about a cup of luke warm water over the injector pump next time it won't start. If it fires up, you found the problem. Only thing, to cold and to much water will kill the pump, so it is your call if you want to try this.

 

get us some pics dude

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ictureid=14666

 

look like a fuel watter septor

 

 

u got rust on ur injectors lines where did the truck come from

 

Ok, I've done a little research on getting my IP repaired locally and I've got some questions.....

First off I was getting prices around $350 to $450 to rebuild the IP. Then one guy tells me that the IP's hydraulic head need replacing and that will run close to $800 with labor....

So what's up with that???? How can the price be so different or is that last guy trying to play me for more money?

 

From a local craigslist ad.... He said he bought it from a ford dealer last winter and, he's in the dessert.

Rust on the outside shouldn't be a problem, should it?

 

rust cause holes fuel leaks out air goes in that ant no dessert truck

 

Ok, but I see no moisture anywhere around the IP or injector lines or fuel filter or the fuel lines that would lead me to suspect a air/fuel leak and, when it's running it runs smooth. Air leaks in the fuel system would make it run or at least idle rough.... Wouldn't it? And I don't have that problem.

It sounds like the symptoms I'm having match the symptoms of the IP beginning to fail, i.e. no possible start when IP is warm/hot and, that is what's happening to me. When the truck is warmed up and I turn it off, it will not start again until it completely cools down.

How can I check for air in the system?
How can I check the IP to make sure?

I'll clean up the light rust on the injector lines while I do my maintenance.

 

Well So. Cal. coastal dessert at least. The dude lived in Corona, but I suppose I could get a registration history if it really mattered to me. Right now all I really care about is getting the truck running dependably and with as little money as possible, since I don't have much. All I got is a few skills, some tools and a mildly functional frontal lobe.

So as you can see I really need some help....

 

I wouldn't worry about the rust on the injector lines. It looks like serface rust, not to deep.If it was to bad you would see wet spots and probably a miss in the engine when running. Like I said before your starting problems sounds like a tired IP.

 

How was the engine cranking over when it did not start?

The problem here is heat soak.

The next problem is where it is.
I just went through the same thing, start right up cold, start right up shortly after I shut it off, but if it sat an hour, sounded like the batteries were almost dead.
Let it cool for another hour, fire right back up.

That is classic IP on the way out symptoms except for the battery part, but I know my IP is only a couple years old.

So I change the starter.
Starting problem is fixed.

My first step here would be have the batteries load tested, most auto parts stores will do this for free.

Pay close attention to how fast the starter is cranking cold.
Does it sound slower when the engine has been sitting for an hour after running?

I think we can rule out air intrusion in this instance, no stalling after it starts.
And the injection lines have around 2000 PSI in them when the engine is idling as the injector fires, if they were leaking there would be no question about it.

 

The third time it happened I was a the house of a commercial diesel mechanic, he was selling me a carpet kit for the truck. It was weird cause I pulled up in the truck and we chatted and looked the carpet kit over. I bought it so I started the truck up for two minuets just to back in and load the kit up..... When I went to leave about ten minuets later the truck wouldn't start.

To me the starter sounded fairly strong. I cycled it for about 12 seconds each try, then shut it down for a couple of minuets before trying again..... About the third try the guy comes out with some starting fluid. I know I know that is very risky, I even questioned him about it, but we tried it anyway..... Three more times with the ether and still nothing, not even a teasing almost wanna turn over.

After about four more tries without any ether over the next half hour the cranking began to sound a little weak, so I had it towed the five miles home. (And I was a grumpy puppy let me tell you)

I don't know why but I walked out to the truck several hours later to give it one more try, and she started right up.

That very next day I took off all of the battery cables and cleaned all the connections then bolted them all back on after adding lock washers. I didn't pull the starter connection cause they looked clean but, I did do the block ground, the frame ground and the starter relay, along with all four battery terminals.

Perhaps tomorrow I'll run both batteries up to napa if load testing is free there.


Other than that Dave, how can I test the IP for this type of failure?

Also today, while researching local options for rebuilding the IP, one mechanic tells me that the hydraulic manifold would need replacing too, at a cost of over $800.

After dozens of threads read here and other diesel sites, I have never heard of a hydraulic manifold for an IP, much less one needing replacing.

Is that a possible issue I should check into, or was that guy trying to milk more $ out of me?