Ready to pull motor- ALMOST!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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Ready to pull motor- ALMOST!
It's on the hoist, and everything is loose,but how do I get the two fuel lines disconnected? I took off the clips, and got a line disconnect kit. I slid the tool into the back of the fitting, but I can't get the line out.
What am I missing?
Good timing, next week is vaca again!
I'm gonna whip this thing yet!
thank you, C
What am I missing?
Good timing, next week is vaca again!
I'm gonna whip this thing yet!
thank you, C
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: THUNDER BAY
LOL Yeah those type of fuel line fittings suck az you may have to keep trying your tool the fitting may be gunk ed up and not going in all the way maybe try spraying the crap out of them to release some of the crud
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
THat MIGHT work, but you may be opening up a can of worms you don't want too, if it doesn't seal back up JUST right, it will suck air there, which can be a major headache. Normally, when you put the line tool on it, if you push the line and the tool together as hard as you can, then ****** back, normally they just come off, I've never had a problem there.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 244
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From: ON & AB, Canada
I just did mine...motor is back...what a pain.
Anyway fuell ines, pop the clip and let it hang out of the way. Cean the connector real well, I used brake cleaner, get right inside the opening and clean it well.
Put your tool around the steel line, with the raised part facing the rubber lines and push it in. I did mine through the wheel well.
Once the tool is seated all the way in., keep it there and pull the lines apart. It takes some patience and muscle. The steel line seats about an inch inside the fittin, so just keep wiggling it out.
Anyway fuell ines, pop the clip and let it hang out of the way. Cean the connector real well, I used brake cleaner, get right inside the opening and clean it well.
Put your tool around the steel line, with the raised part facing the rubber lines and push it in. I did mine through the wheel well.
Once the tool is seated all the way in., keep it there and pull the lines apart. It takes some patience and muscle. The steel line seats about an inch inside the fittin, so just keep wiggling it out.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 244
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From: ON & AB, Canada
I pulled mine last friday and "new" one went back in last night.
It fits in there quite snuggly, be sure to remove the turbo before lifting it.
Also if yours is a stick shift, keep and eye in the fingers of the pressure plate. Its easy to get the input shaft to snag one or two (ask me how I know
) and bend them. I loosened the trans mount nuts a bit to slide the tranny back abut 1\2' to help separation.
It fits in there quite snuggly, be sure to remove the turbo before lifting it.
Also if yours is a stick shift, keep and eye in the fingers of the pressure plate. Its easy to get the input shaft to snag one or two (ask me how I know
) and bend them. I loosened the trans mount nuts a bit to slide the tranny back abut 1\2' to help separation.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
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From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
My neighbor pulled his about a year ago, he was told he had to remove the 5 spd first. He did, but I was wondering why? The man at the Ford dealer told him he had to pull the 5 spd, is that what Ford does?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: ON & AB, Canada
Yes it back in, buttoned it all up yesterday and it fired around 7pm....
What PITA installing the turbo and pipes....2.5 hours at that by myself. A helper would have been nice.
Oil pressure should not be an issueu as already stated.
Next time I do this, hopefully a long time from now, I would pull the trans.
The input shaft makes cntact with tthe pressure before the oil pan is ready to drop in past the the cross member.
I ended up loosening the trans mount and slid the trans back a little and the motor finally dropped.
I think that if you were to remove the trans crossmember and suported the trans/t-case on a tranny jack you should be able to push it back more than enough to make the engine removal/install much easier. ANd inch or so is all thats really required.
What PITA installing the turbo and pipes....2.5 hours at that by myself. A helper would have been nice.
Oil pressure should not be an issueu as already stated.
Next time I do this, hopefully a long time from now, I would pull the trans.
The input shaft makes cntact with tthe pressure before the oil pan is ready to drop in past the the cross member.
I ended up loosening the trans mount and slid the trans back a little and the motor finally dropped.
I think that if you were to remove the trans crossmember and suported the trans/t-case on a tranny jack you should be able to push it back more than enough to make the engine removal/install much easier. ANd inch or so is all thats really required.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
I spray fuel connectors with PB blaster. It breaks the crud inside down pretty well. Just watch your eyes when you disconect them.
I managed to get each eye with both lines. haha. Damn gas hurts!
I managed to get each eye with both lines. haha. Damn gas hurts!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
gas ???????
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 244
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From: ON & AB, Canada
Missed the first part of the question Chris....
Motor was real tired. Tons of blowby, HPOP starting to leak, bad injector, one bad intake valve, DMF was shot, comperssor wheel was dusted (serated really) had been leaking coolant into the oil but a temp fix was still working...for now, etc.... it had 360,000miles on it.
Got a replacement motor from a 95 E450 for $1000Cdn.
will keep the old block for parts, maybe rebuild it in future....
Motor was real tired. Tons of blowby, HPOP starting to leak, bad injector, one bad intake valve, DMF was shot, comperssor wheel was dusted (serated really) had been leaking coolant into the oil but a temp fix was still working...for now, etc.... it had 360,000miles on it.
Got a replacement motor from a 95 E450 for $1000Cdn.
will keep the old block for parts, maybe rebuild it in future....
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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Cool, used PB Blaster, and got the lines off! I will pull the motor as soon as I can one of my sons can help me move the truck once the motor is free.
1- Do I need to remove oil filter to gain clearance? if yes, I will drain oil first!)
2- Do I for sure need to remove turbo prior to removing?
I'm getting closer and am psyched! Hope I don't have to do this again for a LONG time
thanks guys!
C
Hey Dirk, hope you're up and running
1- Do I need to remove oil filter to gain clearance? if yes, I will drain oil first!)
2- Do I for sure need to remove turbo prior to removing?
I'm getting closer and am psyched! Hope I don't have to do this again for a LONG time
thanks guys!
C
Hey Dirk, hope you're up and running