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When I first got mine, I wanted to do this. The audio shop told me that he would have to fill the doors with some hard foam to keep the rattle down. This would add about 25lbs including the subs. Personally I don't think the doors can handle that and they will slowly start to sag. I went with the box instead!
A friend of mine had an Ex and we put a sub in the left rear door. The problem with the doors is they are very lightweight and are not sealed up. I used a 1/4 inch sheet of plywood to fit the door to give a solid mounting surface for the sub. It did rattle slightly but did have a nice sound and the benefit was it did not take up any space. We lined the door with Dynamat but did not completely seal the door. To do over - I'd seal the door openings, line with Dynamat and most likely use polyfil to absorb some of the sound. Instead of cutting holes in the plywood to get the door panel to go back into the original door holes, I'd seal those in the door and have the door clips mount directly into the plywood. It's been about 6 years since I did this - but did find a couple of pictures. Can't find the finished one with the door panel back on - but it came out pretty nice. The door panel did fit back on but there was a slight gap around the edges since the plywood was in the way. This is going to be one of my winter projects since I currently have a box and it just takes up too much room. Weight is a concern - a good sub is going to be heavy, the plywood added weight and the Dynamat isn't the lightest either - but I don't think he ever had any issues with the door sagging or not closing correctly.
I have 2 12" Kickers in a kicker box. Mine does take up that much room, The box is slid close to the spare tire and the sub is under the rear seat. I have enough room on the other side to put my Guerrilla box with all my towing stuff and a tool box in. It all depends on what you have to put in the back. Personally, I have 4 kids and two dogs, and wife! I carry a fully size stroller at all times in the back and it's enough room for me. I would love to get ride of the box, but I just don't think putting my subs in the doors is worth the trouble, but it is still on my mind. I guess if I found someone I felt could do it correctly I would go ahead and get it done. But it would have to be flawless!
A friend owns a audio shop and did mine. Used a combination of fiberglass, dynomat and plywood. The doors are definately heavier but it's been three years and no problems. They sound great and I like how they are out of the way.
Yes, he completely sealed them. I replaced the subs a bit ago and went with the Alpine Type S 12". These speakers have a shallow mounting depth. Some speakers like the CV's have a 9" mounting depth which will not fit. These Alpines are right around a 5" mounting depth.
i was looking at doing that the other day......... BUT when i occasionally haul something in the back....... i don't want them to get jabbed....... (kinda like the right one in the pic) i see the grill is alittle dinged.
i was looking at doing that the other day......... BUT when i occasionally haul something in the back....... i don't want them to get jabbed....... (kinda like the right one in the pic) i see the grill is alittle dinged.
Yeah, that is a drawback and I do go through the grills but (knock on wood) I've never damaged the speaker...just dented the grills.
It shouldn't be too hard to fiberglass the inside of the doors to seal them up. Then you don't have to put all the foam and stuff in there to kill rattles.
Also there are some pro audio woofers with neodymium magnets that only weigh a few pounds that would work well in a sealed box. You would have to apply a hefty eq to get the extreme low end, but these woofers could take it....
I was worried about the subs getting damaged also.. I went with cheap, sturdy grills(and subs for that matter)..
Hardest part for me was just getting the wire to the barn doors.. Routed through the rear interior trim, then pulled the taillights and drilled to behind the trim and out to the doors.. There's a decent amount of space between the hinge side of the doors, and the qtr panel area, so your cables won't get pinched..
I'm thinking about going stealth and installing the subs, then a flat perforated metal grill, then put the carpet back over the top of everything. If your crossover point is low enough (below 100 hz) then having the carpet over the sub won't be a big deal....