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I am getting sick of the crap mileage that I am getting with my truck. I have about 8 to 9 mpg. It is a 351 with 3.54 gears. I do not know how many miles are on the truck, 150,000, 250,000, 1,950,000...who knows. The engine runs smooth, and when I pulled the plugs, they look tan. Now, I could rebuild the engine, but it seems fine - just with bad mileage. I was curious about swapping in en e40d. I searched, but people are saying it needs the computer. The question is, could I use the computer from an idi Diesel truck since it does not use an ECM? Then I could get the trans from a Bronco/F-Series with the 302/351. If I can then would it then be basically plug and play at least to have the trans working? Help me please!!!
Or would i be better putting in an AOD...I am concerned about durability in an F250 though.
Ironically, I sold a U.S. Gear overdrive last year that was backing up a C6. I had only paid $50 from the Pick Your Part...God I hate my luck sometimes!
I am getting sick of the crap mileage that I am getting with my truck. I have about 8 to 9 mpg. It is a 351 with 3.54 gears. I do not know how many miles are on the truck, 150,000, 250,000, 1,950,000...who knows. The engine runs smooth, and when I pulled the plugs, they look tan. Now, I could rebuild the engine, but it seems fine - just with bad mileage. I was curious about swapping in en e40d. I searched, but people are saying it needs the computer. The question is, could I use the computer from an idi Diesel truck since it does not use an ECM? Then I could get the trans from a Bronco/F-Series with the 302/351. If I can then would it then be basically plug and play at least to have the trans working? Help me please!!!
Or would i be better putting in an AOD...I am concerned about durability in an F250 though.
Ironically, I sold a U.S. Gear overdrive last year that was backing up a C6. I had only paid $50 from the Pick Your Part...God I hate my luck sometimes!
Thank you.
Well,what transmission do you have in the truck now?I'm assuming a C6...
The E4OD does need the computer but it's predecessor the AOD does not and they are pretty common. They were an available option on just about anything that used a 302. As long as they are cared for they are pretty reliable. You just have to make sure that any towing is done in D rather than OD and also you have to make sure that the kickdown linkage stays firmly connected or it can kill the trans.
hmmmmmm interesteing, so would I be better off then with the AOD? I have my GMC if I am going to do any towing, this is more a commute truck.
Yes, it is a C6, so what would it take to do the swap? Are they the same in terms of length (AOD vs C6)? I might have found an AOD out of a 1990 Bronco...would that be an AOD or and AODE? Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks, like I said, I am just concerned about durability. I am still curious though if I can use a diesel e40d computer with an e40d. I might have a lead on one.....
I think you have something else wrong. I installed a 78 351w in my 1980, and it had the c6, and I got 12mpg pulling a 16ft tandem axle trailer up to Pennsylvania and back hauling a small tractor. I never checked it, but compared to my other vehicles, I got at least 14mpg empty, depending on how I drove it. It had 3.50 gears in it, with 31x10.5x15 tires, no lift on the suspension.
You don't have the dreaded parking brake cable sticking problem do you?
Thanks, I did not think of the parking brake cable, it does not seem to be sticking, and I can not smell any burning, but I will check that...I love the truck, but the mileage is killing me!
I will be damned! I crawled underneath, and found that the left cable was not releasing all the way! I disconnected it and will let you know if it helps at all. I go back to my days on for work tonight, but on my next round of days off, I am going to mess with it, and either take off the cable and soak it in oil, or replace the thing!
Thanks again for the idea...I was thinking too far ahead for myself!
I still might be interested in this swap doen the road though.
You may need to get some vise grips and clamp the cable about 1/4" away from where it goes into the cable sheath, and then hit the vise grips with a hammer to drive the cable back.
This is a common problem with these trucks, and the cables are not that expensive to replace, all the stores carry them.
Well, I drove into work, with the cables disconnected, and it seemed to run better. I am going to order a new pair right away, but discovered a new problem which will lead me to my next post.....
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