Hello,

I am looking into buying a power stroke and would like to know if there is any thing that I need to look for. It will have to have higher miles for the money I have to spend but I need a crew cab any help would be great.

Thanks

 

Check all fluids for proper amount and also proper color (especially auto trans fluid). Make sure no oil in coolant and vice versa.
I'd check the turbo wheel for play or pitting. Just pull the intake tube off, easy to check. If it's 4wd check out all the ball joints in the front end. Check the brakes, brake lines, fuel lines. Look for leaks in the engine valley on top.

If it's been well maintaned high miles won't matter much. I'm sure you'll find one!

Welcome to FTE!

 

Thanks,

I have found a 1997 crew cab long bed 4x4 with 200K on it he said that the coulum needs replaced but he has the replacement all ready I can get the truck for 3500 does this sound like a good deal? the bed is a little beat up.

 

doesn't sound bad, is it all stock?

 

Yes it is all stock

 

not a bad deal from the sound of it. all stock? lots of rust?

 

oops, forgot i already replied

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ers_Guide.html

Written for the SD's but almost all of it applies to the OBS as well.

 

Dang double posts!

 

Sounds like a good deal. On my truck I don't mind a beat up bed. It's supposed to be used that way...

Just make sure you buy what you really want. I bought a 2wd automatic, and I should have just waited till I found a 4wd 5-speed but I didn't and now i'm not as happy as I could be. But the wife won't let me sell it now. At least not for a while.

 

heres a few things to look for when buying a used truck.
got this from this web site.

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
good luck
Mitch
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.