93 f 250 upgrades
#31
Dave, take a deep breath, have a beer, I am in no way knocking turbocharging at all, and you're off topic. I was simply answering Samantha7.3's original request for Non Turbo Mods. And bla bla bla
Bla bla bla bla bla....
Thanks Dave for your detailed information on turbocharging. You are a great contributor to FTE and I appreciate you passion, however misdirected and off topic it might have been in this case.
Bla bla bla bla bla....
Thanks Dave for your detailed information on turbocharging. You are a great contributor to FTE and I appreciate you passion, however misdirected and off topic it might have been in this case.
#32
Actually if you read my post about propane again, you will see I have already tried it, both NA and turbo charged.
I have the system laying in my garage right now, where it will stay.
A 200 dollar system, barbecue tank in the bed with a regulator installed is a DOT no no.
Regulators must be removed from the tanks while the vehicle is in motion.
Here is a link to the correct tank for the propane fumigation system, frame mounted RV tank at the bottom 1/2 of the page.
http://www.mantank.com/products/rv/rvcylinders.htm
Going price is about 500 dollars.
Here are some of the cheapest prices I have seen for a while, but they are all sale prices.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/l...opane-tank.htm
Scroll down, notice the normal price is over 500 for a 5.5 gallon tank which is tiny, and you also need the remote fill.
Yes, I did the 200 dollars system just as an experiment, with the illegal barbecue tank.
Power increase, timing fine tuning and fuel system fine tuning can get you just as much power on a NA motor, and all they cost is your time.
I also have read about all the fuel savings propane will get you.
From very detailed operating expenses I keep on my truck, I can also tell you that yes you burn less diesel, but you have the added expense of propane which offsets any MPG gain you see, plus the time of running to a station to fill the propane tank makes it a negative gain.
Air intake mods are a good thing.
Yes, I even run a ram air setup to my turbo.
An while you are looking for improvements, a 3" free flowing exhaust will also help.
But a NA motor does get a bit loud running straight exhaust.
I am just giving my experience, been around diesels for over 40 years.
Also several million miles driving tractor trailers cross country.
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt, belt buckle and hat to prove it.
Nice hat, don't you think?
I have the system laying in my garage right now, where it will stay.
A 200 dollar system, barbecue tank in the bed with a regulator installed is a DOT no no.
Regulators must be removed from the tanks while the vehicle is in motion.
Here is a link to the correct tank for the propane fumigation system, frame mounted RV tank at the bottom 1/2 of the page.
http://www.mantank.com/products/rv/rvcylinders.htm
Going price is about 500 dollars.
Here are some of the cheapest prices I have seen for a while, but they are all sale prices.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/l...opane-tank.htm
Scroll down, notice the normal price is over 500 for a 5.5 gallon tank which is tiny, and you also need the remote fill.
Yes, I did the 200 dollars system just as an experiment, with the illegal barbecue tank.
Power increase, timing fine tuning and fuel system fine tuning can get you just as much power on a NA motor, and all they cost is your time.
I also have read about all the fuel savings propane will get you.
From very detailed operating expenses I keep on my truck, I can also tell you that yes you burn less diesel, but you have the added expense of propane which offsets any MPG gain you see, plus the time of running to a station to fill the propane tank makes it a negative gain.
Air intake mods are a good thing.
Yes, I even run a ram air setup to my turbo.
An while you are looking for improvements, a 3" free flowing exhaust will also help.
But a NA motor does get a bit loud running straight exhaust.
I am just giving my experience, been around diesels for over 40 years.
Also several million miles driving tractor trailers cross country.
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt, belt buckle and hat to prove it.
Nice hat, don't you think?
#35
Nice offer, but we have no ROO's here.
Actually that is my snow plow hat.
When you spend hours shoveling out your driveway, next thing you know some joker in a snow plow comes and plows the end shut again.
At least when I am wearing my hat, they are laughing instead of cussing me.
So I guess bottom line is, nice offer but no deal.
Number 2 diesel aftershave for me, I use off road on Sunday and special occasions.
As for the propane, I read this and that and also thought it would be something great.
So I built one and installed it.
On a NA motor, the results were not impressive at all.
And the biggest problem was if you have enough propane to make a difference at high RPM, at low RPM you had severe knocking.
If you set it for low RPM, it was like nothing was there at high RPM.
Since there is nothing you can use as a trigger other than the throttle linkage, you could probably make a muli stage system that was triggered by how far down you press the throttle.
But you will have to train yourself and everyone that drive the truck to light foot the throttle and let off when it starts knocking because the next stage opened before it should be opened.
But when you start talking multi stage, multi propane valves and nozzles, you are no longer talking cheap system.
With a turbo, there is a system out there called Power Shot 2000 that varies the propane flow according to the boost level.
Cheapest price I remember seeing for it was like 800 dollars, no tank included.
I will also say propane made a much bigger difference on the turbo engine than it did on the NA engine.
While I was playing with it on the turbo engine, I tried it one time with enough propane that once the system was on, I could take my foot off the throttle and run 65 MPH.
Yes, when the propane first came on, it felt like the 4 barrel opening up on a 427.
But then I can also tell you that on Feb. 4 1998 I was plowing snow.
After I was done I filled up for 23.00 which was 17.177 gallons of fuel at a price of 1.339 and I traveled 71 miles for an average of 4.13343 MPG if I check to five decimal places.
When you have records like that, I can safely say that the cost of propane added to the cost of diesel makes the truck more expensive to operate.
My fuel cost average for 1998 was .1030 per mile and the average price per gallon that year was $1.177.
Wow, replaced the starter on Feb. 2 of 1998 and the starter was $313.13.
I do keep accurate records so I know if something is cost effective or not.
Actually that is my snow plow hat.
When you spend hours shoveling out your driveway, next thing you know some joker in a snow plow comes and plows the end shut again.
At least when I am wearing my hat, they are laughing instead of cussing me.
So I guess bottom line is, nice offer but no deal.
Number 2 diesel aftershave for me, I use off road on Sunday and special occasions.
As for the propane, I read this and that and also thought it would be something great.
So I built one and installed it.
On a NA motor, the results were not impressive at all.
And the biggest problem was if you have enough propane to make a difference at high RPM, at low RPM you had severe knocking.
If you set it for low RPM, it was like nothing was there at high RPM.
Since there is nothing you can use as a trigger other than the throttle linkage, you could probably make a muli stage system that was triggered by how far down you press the throttle.
But you will have to train yourself and everyone that drive the truck to light foot the throttle and let off when it starts knocking because the next stage opened before it should be opened.
But when you start talking multi stage, multi propane valves and nozzles, you are no longer talking cheap system.
With a turbo, there is a system out there called Power Shot 2000 that varies the propane flow according to the boost level.
Cheapest price I remember seeing for it was like 800 dollars, no tank included.
I will also say propane made a much bigger difference on the turbo engine than it did on the NA engine.
While I was playing with it on the turbo engine, I tried it one time with enough propane that once the system was on, I could take my foot off the throttle and run 65 MPH.
Yes, when the propane first came on, it felt like the 4 barrel opening up on a 427.
But then I can also tell you that on Feb. 4 1998 I was plowing snow.
After I was done I filled up for 23.00 which was 17.177 gallons of fuel at a price of 1.339 and I traveled 71 miles for an average of 4.13343 MPG if I check to five decimal places.
When you have records like that, I can safely say that the cost of propane added to the cost of diesel makes the truck more expensive to operate.
My fuel cost average for 1998 was .1030 per mile and the average price per gallon that year was $1.177.
Wow, replaced the starter on Feb. 2 of 1998 and the starter was $313.13.
I do keep accurate records so I know if something is cost effective or not.
#36
there is actually alot you can do for performance and mileage.the concept of both is more air in and out so better cleaner air to the intake and bigger and/or less restrictive exhaust.the best thing you can do is turbo it and take out the muffler.if you straight pipe it without a turbo it will be quite loud.you can turn the fuel up as well but before you mess with fuel settings you need a pyrometer which monitors the temp of the exhaust so you dont melt pistons from over fueling.pistons start taking damage at around 1350 degrees.a way to tell if your over fueling is the more black smoke the more fuel your overfueling/wasting.my first suggestion would be a turbo to increase power and fuel economy.then turn up your fuel and open up exhaust.you can also upgrade the injection pump and injectors.others will jump in to add more soon im sure.good luck and welcome to FTE the best forum on the internet.............
#38
YES! every mod to the truck listed has been done by me, except turning up the fuel. I changed my vc gaskets... had supervision with my exaust( im only 5'2 and have to litterally sit under the hood to work on the damn thing) and have replaced 3 lines... lol i just put things back on the way i took them off.
#39
YES. every mod to the truck listed has been done by me, except turning up the fuel. I changed my vc gaskets... had supervision with my exaust( im only 5'2 and have to litterally sit under the hood to work on the damn thing) and have replaced 3 lines... lol i just put things back on the way i took them off.
#40
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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That thing must rasp pretty good with a strait pipe. I tried that on mine but I had a turbocharger and would crackle really loud on engine braking.
First thing I would do is get that turbo in there first. No other upgrade will make as big a difference. You won't recognize the truck once that turbo is setup in there.
First thing I would do is get that turbo in there first. No other upgrade will make as big a difference. You won't recognize the truck once that turbo is setup in there.
#41
That thing must rasp pretty good with a strait pipe. I tried that on mine but I had a turbocharger and would crackle really loud on engine braking.
First thing I would do is get that turbo in there first. No other upgrade will make as big a difference. You won't recognize the truck once that turbo is setup in there.
First thing I would do is get that turbo in there first. No other upgrade will make as big a difference. You won't recognize the truck once that turbo is setup in there.
#42
Join Date: Nov 2003
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lol, Guys are trying to show off are they?
Once you get the turbo on, you can turn the fuel up to match all that extra air. To get smoke, you can lug the engine at RPMs below what the turbo will spool at (1500 will work). That assumes its a stick shift. For automatic, tromping on the pedal faster than the turbo can respond is the only way.
Too much fuel and not enough air = Smoke, its just that easy.
But also gets half burned fuel, higher EGTs and increased oil contamination and piston ring coking from soot build up.
I know it looks cool and it might be fun to make smoke, but its not really good for the engine. It won't kill it, but its not really good either.
Make sure you get an EGT gauge in there at the same time as the turbo. Smoke or not, hauling long hard hills will drive the EGTs up and you need to be able to monitor the temps there. Unlike intermittent smoke, high enough EGTs WILL damage the engine.
Once you get the turbo on, you can turn the fuel up to match all that extra air. To get smoke, you can lug the engine at RPMs below what the turbo will spool at (1500 will work). That assumes its a stick shift. For automatic, tromping on the pedal faster than the turbo can respond is the only way.
Too much fuel and not enough air = Smoke, its just that easy.
But also gets half burned fuel, higher EGTs and increased oil contamination and piston ring coking from soot build up.
I know it looks cool and it might be fun to make smoke, but its not really good for the engine. It won't kill it, but its not really good either.
Make sure you get an EGT gauge in there at the same time as the turbo. Smoke or not, hauling long hard hills will drive the EGTs up and you need to be able to monitor the temps there. Unlike intermittent smoke, high enough EGTs WILL damage the engine.
#43
lol, Guys are trying to show off are they?
Once you get the turbo on, you can turn the fuel up to match all that extra air. To get smoke, you can lug the engine at RPMs below what the turbo will spool at (1500 will work). That assumes its a stick shift. For automatic, tromping on the pedal faster than the turbo can respond is the only way.
Too much fuel and not enough air = Smoke, its just that easy.
But also gets half burned fuel, higher EGTs and increased oil contamination and piston ring coking from soot build up.
I know it looks cool and it might be fun to make smoke, but its not really good for the engine. It won't kill it, but its not really good either.
Make sure you get an EGT gauge in there at the same time as the turbo. Smoke or not, hauling long hard hills will drive the EGTs up and you need to be able to monitor the temps there. Unlike intermittent smoke, high enough EGTs WILL damage the engine.
Once you get the turbo on, you can turn the fuel up to match all that extra air. To get smoke, you can lug the engine at RPMs below what the turbo will spool at (1500 will work). That assumes its a stick shift. For automatic, tromping on the pedal faster than the turbo can respond is the only way.
Too much fuel and not enough air = Smoke, its just that easy.
But also gets half burned fuel, higher EGTs and increased oil contamination and piston ring coking from soot build up.
I know it looks cool and it might be fun to make smoke, but its not really good for the engine. It won't kill it, but its not really good either.
Make sure you get an EGT gauge in there at the same time as the turbo. Smoke or not, hauling long hard hills will drive the EGTs up and you need to be able to monitor the temps there. Unlike intermittent smoke, high enough EGTs WILL damage the engine.
#45
dont worry dave is harm less hes candian lol my truck smoke like a chimney i dont know y did this when i got it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrCQcoeL_-w