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I need some type of hook to be pulled out of the pit. This is pretty cheap and 10,000 lb rated. Will this work for the mudbog? http://www.etrailer.com/pc-OR~TR63044.htm
Tractor Supply has a 10,000 lb shackle assembly that goes into your hitch reciever. I would worry about the hook because of your inability to be lifted up and dragged to the end of the pit if the truck breaks.
yes that will work. You can also get them at Harbor frieght.
Some mud bogs only allow closed loops like clevises. So you may want to check who ever runs your bogs.
Open ended attachment points are not all that great. They can permit the rope / strap to let go and then they fly back at the other vehicle.
Think about how low the stuck vehicle usually is and then consider that the pull vehicle is above the stuck one, so the rope has to pull up and away from the strongest point. When the rope climbs to the end of the hook it tries to straighten the hook out and sometimes it is successful.
Closed loop D-rings are a much better solution:
But these can often be difficult to use when the truck is burried.
Another option is to use this type of attachment point:
These pintle hook mounts can attach right to the reciever and make attachment of the rope / strap a breeze. These are easier to use than the d-ring style shackles and will not damage the rope / strap.
Assuming you have a 10-12k receiver hitch for the 70s F-series in your photo, I would go with a pintle hook that goes into the receiver hitch. Open hooks stink and can make a weapon out of whatever you are pulling the truck out with.
Pintle hook on a hacked bumper I made for my 1971 f-100
Assuming you have a 10-12k receiver hitch for the 70s F-series in your photo, I would go with a pintle hook that goes into the receiver hitch. Open hooks stink and can make a weapon out of whatever you are pulling the truck out with.
You can say that again. I will no longer pull a vehicle that does not have closed end recovery points.
This is what happens when a hook straightens out:
My brother has a tailgate that looks very similar to that. Pulled out a buddies shivy that had loops welded to the frame. Evidently they didn't burn em in that well......
Wow, what is the story behind that one? A hook let loose attached to a chain? Looks like more damage then just from a strap. Especially on the left over the tail lamp.
Wow, what is the story behind that one? A hook let loose attached to a chain? Looks like more damage then just from a strap. Especially on the left over the tail lamp.
The only chain that will ever be attached to any rig of mine would be a timing chain. I wont use chains nor will I ever even carry one.
The damage is from a rope, I use marine dock rope used for tug boats and such.
This partcular rope had a knot in it and no longer had an eye splice. The knot gets real tight and the rope becomes super hard. Once wet it then becomes heavy too, so the energy that helps extract a vehicle now works as a device of destruction. While it is very difficult to break one of these ropes, they can do some damage.
This end was placed on a forged hook and the hook went as straight as can be. I have a device that used two hooks and appeared to look like a set rams horns and both of those straightened out. Thought it was a fluke, but it was not.
Never again.
As our vehicles become more capable, they get stuck a whole lot worse than when they were stock. We add weight from revcovery equipment, and add more power, bigger tires and gears to help us get further down the trial or go a longer distance in the mud. When we do grind to a hault we are stuck worse than ever before, so our recovery equipment also has to get better, or disaster can strike.
I have one like 75F350 has on his truck. DO NOT GET THE ONE FROM HARBOR FREIGHT. I've seen one split, luckily it didn't go flying. But that's because it was made from regular square tubing, and the welds are typical chinese quality. I know, some people will say they've used it with good success, but there are reasons why I only go there for disposable tools. If you can, get one like 75F350's. It's made from a solid piece of steel, although it's heavy and more expensive, it's worth the extra money and weight.
I have one like 75F350 has on his truck. DO NOT GET THE ONE FROM HARBOR FREIGHT. I've seen one split, luckily it didn't go flying. But that's because it was made from regular square tubing, and the welds are typical chinese quality. I know, some people will say they've used it with good success, but there are reasons why I only go there for disposable tools. If you can, get one like 75F350's. It's made from a solid piece of steel, although it's heavy and more expensive, it's worth the extra money and weight.
I can't speak for the pintle hook style receivers, as I've only used those when in the military for towing.
Very good point about the hollow pieces of junk found at some discount stores. They are accidents waiting to happen,
recovery equipment should be strong and no skimping on quality.
If you are using a 2" wide towstrap, you can slide the eye into the reciever and secure it with your hitch pin.
This is a reasonable idea, but two inchers are pretty small, and even if you can get one in there, they usually get chaffed and torn, bringing a premature end to the strap.
usually there is some angle one direction or another that makes the strap rub on the lip of the reciever. This friction combined with the stretch of the strap sually starts to tear the thing up.
I have seen them work for a while like this though.
My brother has a tailgate that looks very similar to that. Pulled out a buddies shivy that had loops welded to the frame. Evidently they didn't burn em in that well......
I dont know if your talking about tow hooks or not but do not weld them. Many of them are hardened in some way and when you put heat into them while welding it takes away its strength, screws up the grain structure of the steel, creates stress and you may have a missle on your hands.
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