hard start, after IP put on.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Massachusetts
There are marks on top of the pump and the gear housing cover. Those are the timing marks. Align these marks when you install...then twist the pump just a hair towards the passenger side (I think). Not much at all! Chilton manual says 2 degrees of timing is equal to .030 inches/.75mm of pump movement.
As long as those marks are aligned, it will get you running. This is called static timing. Some time in the future you can bring the truck to a shop and have them time it for you. One diesel shop here in western mass. quoted me $80. Timing depends on elevation and the cetane value of the fuel...so what's right for my truck probably isn't right for your truck.
Line up the marks and that's all you need to do for now.
As long as those marks are aligned, it will get you running. This is called static timing. Some time in the future you can bring the truck to a shop and have them time it for you. One diesel shop here in western mass. quoted me $80. Timing depends on elevation and the cetane value of the fuel...so what's right for my truck probably isn't right for your truck.
Line up the marks and that's all you need to do for now.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Massachusetts
Did you check the fuel supply line runing from the tank up to the pump?
It's metal line with clips holding it to the frame.
Vibrations cause the clip and line to scratch the pain of each other, creating rust, which is an abrasive for the scratching.
Any of these clips could have vibrated a hole right through the fuel line.
It's metal line with clips holding it to the frame.
Vibrations cause the clip and line to scratch the pain of each other, creating rust, which is an abrasive for the scratching.
Any of these clips could have vibrated a hole right through the fuel line.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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The timing won't be off it you didn't have the pump gear or pump gear housing removed because of the notch and how the pump can only go into the pump gear one possible way. The timing also can't be off if it started right away and the few times after with no trouble. Unfortunately, you're getting air somewhere. The problem is finding the where as there's many possible places. I have a question though. How did you remove the old pump without removing the pump gear and housing? I've had these things off time and time again, but I've never figured out how to remove it without removing the gear and housing. The injector lines always hit and didn't allow enough clearance to get the pump pushed back and them up.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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The timing won't be off it you didn't have the pump gear or pump gear housing removed because of the notch and how the pump can only go into the pump gear one possible way. The timing also can't be off if it started right away and the few times after with no trouble. Unfortunately, you're getting air somewhere. The problem is finding the where as there's many possible places. I have a question though. How did you remove the old pump without removing the pump gear and housing? I've had these things off time and time again, but I've never figured out how to remove it without removing the gear and housing. The injector lines always hit and didn't allow enough clearance to get the pump pushed back and them up.
after a few cussing tantrums and tools thrown across the garage, it took a lil finesse...
i lifted the back side with the lines basically till they couldnt go higher. then wiggled front of the pump out and up( the pump gear on the pump side, throught the bolts that hold the pump to the drive gear assembly)..
dont know if that makes sense to u but thats what i did....
i can beleive that it is air intrusion... but where would air leak in when truck is off, that fuel wouldnt leak out while the truck is running???
because i have checked all over for signs of leakage with it running and i cant find anything.
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It's hard to say, and it doesn't have to be air. If you have an injector(s) that isn't holding pressure, it could be dropping the fuel held up when the vehicle isn't running. This will cause a hard start. I've seen injectors that over a course of an hour or two will drip fuel out when the engine isn't running and cause hard starts. You don't notice it if you shut the vehicle off for 10 minutes or so and then fire it back up. Did you have the injectors out when you removed the pump?
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Junior User
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The timing won't be off it you didn't have the pump gear or pump gear housing removed because of the notch and how the pump can only go into the pump gear one possible way. The timing also can't be off if it started right away and the few times after with no trouble. Unfortunately, you're getting air somewhere. The problem is finding the where as there's many possible places. I have a question though. How did you remove the old pump without removing the pump gear and housing? I've had these things off time and time again, but I've never figured out how to remove it without removing the gear and housing. The injector lines always hit and didn't allow enough clearance to get the pump pushed back and them up.
also check out the thread "starting problems"
in there is a step by step in removing and installing the IP.
i think in the future the thing i might do differently is remove the return lines one by one so they r not in the way...
when i put the new IP on i put em on one by one. made it a lot easier. just make sure u keep some note of what lines are which.
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Junior User
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It's hard to say, and it doesn't have to be air. If you have an injector(s) that isn't holding pressure, it could be dropping the fuel held up when the vehicle isn't running. This will cause a hard start. I've seen injectors that over a course of an hour or two will drip fuel out when the engine isn't running and cause hard starts. You don't notice it if you shut the vehicle off for 10 minutes or so and then fire it back up. Did you have the injectors out when you removed the pump?
i didnt have em out when i removed the pump... but i did about a month and a half ago. when i did the new injector seal kit, and glow plugs.
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I have a manual that says it can be done as well, but I just didn't have any luck. I found it was much easier to just remove the pump gear and housing. I can have the pump off the engine in 5 minutes or so doing this as you just remove the 8 injector lines from the injectors and remove 4 bolts. I'd highly recommend setting the engine at tdc before doing this though. The first time I removed a pump, I didn't even think about it when installing the different pump. Let's just say the timing was a wee bit off. I had a pump builder tell me that if the timing is off more than a tooth or two the diesel engine won't run. He didn't believe me when I told him that the vehicle ran when I was over a quarter turn of the pump gear off. It ran rather poorly, but it ran nonetheless. Heck, I've got my pump gear advanced 2 teeth right now to compensate for the type of fuel I use.
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Is it possible that you didn't get an injector tightly turned? A friend of mine always told me to teflon the injectors when putting them back in to ensure they stay sealed. If the injectors are all good, maybe one of them has worked loose?
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Junior User
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ill check but i dont think so...
how do u check if an injector is good or bad?
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Well, I take mine into a friend. He's got the tool and gauge to snap test them. You just screw the injector in the gauge and push the lever down. The lever pushes fuel into your injector while the gauge reads at which pressure your injector opens. It shows what kind of spray pattern you have out of the injector nozzle. Also, you should be able to see if the injector is leaking once the lever isn't applying pressure. Take them into a diesel shop or a mechanic that works on diesels. Snap testers are fairly common and anyone that works on diesels much should have one.
