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the tires on our recently purchased 1972 ford F250 have a lot of dry rot. we are looking for tires. the problem is that the wheels are the 16.5-8.75's, so the tires are not that easy to get. and there aren't too many options. and its way more expensive for just the basic four ply tire.
we were wondering if we should go for those, or get used wheels from a you-pick junkyard that are a more modern size, then buy tires for them. the wheels they offered us at discount were 16-7's. dont want smaller, if anything i want bigger wheels.
we also might just go ahead and get a 3" rough country lift, and some pre-owned (lightly used, the kinda thing where they bought 'em 3 months ago, never used them, and want em gone) 35 inch mud tires on some wheels that are about 15-10. on craigslist i found a set of four of these tires and wheels for 500 dollars, and the lift costs 143.95. and when we were at discount, it would be at least 700 for the tires and wheels.
So what angle do you guys think i should take on this?
Go for the 16 inch rims! the old split rims are way too heavy and the tire choices for a 16 are plentiful. As far as used tires, for only 200 bucks more, get the new tires.
Later Model Tubeless rims that are 16 x 7 are common. They are ideal for the 265 x 75 R16, which is the exact replacement for the old 7.50 x 16 tube type tire that came on these trucks. These later rims fit up to about a 96 Ford Pickup so you should be able to find them easily at almost any pick and pull. If you are going to lift the truck, do so first, then decide on tires and wheels. You might not like your choice when you can put them on and look. Lifted trucks have a way of looking like they are on piano casters with certain tires.
ok thanks for the advice. we went to a junk yard today and found some mid 80's F250's with the 16 inch rims. we can get five for less than 100. then we will go get some tires for it. new tires.
About the biggest tire you can put on these 16 x 7 inch rims is the 285x75 R16. You will be at the largest for a 7 inch rim. However, you might like the looks of some 235 x 85 R16, which a lot of the folks use especially on 4wd trucks. I have a 70 High Boy with the 235 x 85 R16 tires, load range E. They are the exact diameter of the old 7.50 x 16 tube type tires also. The 265 x 75 R16 is what I use on my 2wd 70 CS and somehow they both have their own look about them, but they have the same diameter tire. If you want larger than 285 x 75 R16, you are going to have to get into the tires measured in inches.....like 31 x 10.5 R16, or 32 x or 33 x, etc. There is a multitude of sizes out there.....Good luck and enjoy. I think you will like your choice of rims!
You can find these at a better price sometimes. But, they are not as large through the section, and are smaller diameter than original tires. Making more revolutions per mile cuts fuel economy and over a longer period of time, wears out engines sooner. What happens is your speedometer might say 60 miles per hour, but because the tires are a smaller diameter, you might be going only, say, 54 miles per hour. The engine is doing 60 along with the driveline, transmission, etc., and even the wheels, but because the tires are smaller around, they have to turn many more times to roll a measured mile. Larger diameter tires roll fewer times per mile, effectively slowing the engine, while small diameter tires have to turn many more times to make up the same distance. Hence fast engine speed to keep up the "real" speed of the vehicle. Hope this isn't too confusing.......... I would stay with the Original Diameter tire, thereby keeping my speedo accuracy, while maintaining the factory operating speed of the engine per mile.
Your 72 came from the factory with either 7.50 x 16 tube type or 8.75x16.5 tubeless tires. These two tire sizes rotate 662 times for each mile traveled. Speedometer, engine speed, etc., and etc., all were designed to operate this way at the best of all worlds. In replacing the original tires size with something else that is different changes everything, sometimes not for the better. Keep tires on your truck that rotate 662 times per mile. You will then be operating at optimum capabilities of the 72 you have.
Last edited by MotorDog; Aug 11, 2009 at 11:25 AM.
Reason: More Info..........
Whoa,motordog.......235/85/16's are closer in size to the old 7.50-16's than the 265/75/16's are.........and the 7.50-16's are taller and a little narrower than the 8.75x16.5's are..........235/85/16 vs 245/75/16......the 235's are a little taller and narrower......
Feman, for the most part 16.5 tires are being phased out,already many manufacturers dont produce them.....they were originally really popular in the bigger sizes,like 9.50-16.5,10-16.5,and 12-16.5 for trucks equipped with cabover campers......in the 70's and early 80's,you would often times see a 2wd truck with a big cabover camper running the 12-16.5's in the rear,and 9.50-16.5's front.
the 16.5's were the closest thing to the low profile,short sidewall tires we see so often today,as opposed to many of the 16" tires,which were frequently skinny,and maybe a little taller
Yes, that tire is fine. Try this though. Here locally we have some businesses called "Tire King". They sell used tires and sometimes have some really killer deals. I picked up some 235/75R15 for my 92 F150 for $55 a pair that still had 90% tread left. That was the best tire deal I'd ever come across in my life.
Yes, you can argue sizes vs. sizes all day. Insert other brand names and you have more fodder for more arguing as not every brand advertises the same specs for the same size tire.. Although I have not found any, I've been told some tire makers still make the 7.50 x 16 in 4, 6, 8, and 10 ply. Not sure who would want them, but that's what makes the world go around. Fatter, skinnier, etc., and what you want is a tire that makes 662 revs per mile. Some fat ones do, some skinnier ones do also. Might even find a piano caster or two that can rev up to that speed/rpms. It doesn't make a difference to some folks what the speedo reads, but here in Utah, the State Vehicle Inspection program requires your speedo be working and ACCURATE! The Highway patrol enforces this program. They start with the owner and ticket everyone concerned, including the State Licensed Inspector that signed it off and the Owner of the State Inspection Station. Just a few reasons to have it right in Utah. But, you can always do it your way no matter which way that is.....Round and Black, Drive on IT!
Yes, you can argue sizes vs. sizes all day. Insert other brand names and you have more fodder for more arguing as not every brand advertises the same specs for the same size tire.. Although I have not found any, I've been told some tire makers still make the 7.50 x 16 in 4, 6, 8, and 10 ply. Not sure who would want them, but that's what makes the world go around. Fatter, skinnier, etc., and what you want is a tire that makes 662 revs per mile. Some fat ones do, some skinnier ones do also. Might even find a piano caster or two that can rev up to that speed/rpms. It doesn't make a difference to some folks what the speedo reads, but here in Utah, the State Vehicle Inspection program requires your speedo be working and ACCURATE! The Highway patrol enforces this program. They start with the owner and ticket everyone concerned, including the State Licensed Inspector that signed it off and the Owner of the State Inspection Station. Just a few reasons to have it right in Utah. But, you can always do it your way no matter which way that is.....Round and Black, Drive on IT!
Id be surprised if 8.75-16.5's are EVER as tall as 7.50-16's,so i find it unlikely they both roll at 662 revs a minute......Accuracy is relative,hence the fact that you are typically allowed 5-10 miles an hour over posted speed limits before your ticketed.....Or are you trying to say that Utah's highway patrol tickets you for driving 66 in a 65 zone........And how do they now if your speedo is accurate,i mean they can obviously record your speed on there radar,but how can they determine what your speedo registered?
do they inspect your vehicle,record the odometer reading,then have you drive a measured course,check the odo reading at the end of the course,and compare figures?
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