I have a '90 F150 and need to change the oil. I have never done this on my own (except for on my motorcycle). I was hoping that someone could please provide me with some step-by-step instructions on how to do this, and perhaps provide me with a link to a diagram so that I know what I'm looking at when I get under my truck.
Thanks,
-Sue.

 

Very easy to do. You didn't mention the engine type so there can be some differences.

If you have long fingernails, you might wish to consider buying some mechanics gloves, I have seen some good ones in Griots Garage catalog, I think they have a website too. You will break your nails or get them extremely dirty. If you are not worried about your nails, then on to step 1.

1) Get a good drain pan, some newspaper, kitty litter, the appropriate filter, 6 quarts of oil(Probably use only 5, 1 spare), a good socket and ratchet set(or box end wrenches is OK), an oil filter wrench(handy when you need it, I like the ones that look like giant pliers). You might also need a jack and jack stands(never use a jack without stands for safety) if you cannot crawl under the truck. Most trucks are high enough off the ground that you won't need a jack. It is best if the engine is a little warm but not hot. If the oil pan is warm to the touch it should be OK.

2)Set out several thicknesses of newspaper under the oil pan drain plug. Put drain pan under the oil drain plug. Get socket or wrench and remove the plug, counter clockwise should do it(Right hand rule... hold out your right hand, curl your fingers... your thumb will point the direction the plug will go if your turn the wrench the way your fingers curl) Most screws etc are right handed, but a few will be left handed, usually lugnuts and nuts that are specific to which side of the car they are on, but rare. Don't worry about this until you get into complicated mechanical work. Back out the drain plug until it is easy to turn with your fingers. Try to guess the direction the oil will spurt out and try to position the pan in that direction but still under the plug, and try to keep your hand out of that direction. Remove the plug and get your hand out of the way.

While you are letting the oil drain, take a look at the drain plug. Many of them have little magnets. At worst the magnet might have some fuzzy metal shavings. You do not want to see chunks of metal(rice grain sized) or a lot of fuzz. Take a sniff of the oil it should smell oily(???) you don't want to smell a lot of gas, and the oil should be honey colored to dark chocolate brown. If the oil is frothy with what looks like chocolate moose in it, you may have a problem(water).

When the oil stops draining, wipe the drain hole surface and the plug clean. Then reinstall the plug(clockwise) Use a wrench and snug it up(hand tight), a little pressure is OK, don't honk on it like a gorilla.

3) Move the drain pan under where the filter is. Get your filter wrench and remove the filter,(counter clockwise). You could do this by hand but usually it will be too tight so that's why I recommend a wrench. It will be sloppy. Dump the oil out of the filter into the pan and put the filter in a box or wrap it up with several layers of newspaper. Use a clean wiper and clean the smooth surfaces of the oil filter mount. Get your new filter, check inside it to make sure there is nothing loose in there or any rust or metal shavings(Happens, I used to inspect oil filters when I was a teenager, so I have seen it). Get a little oil, maybe a table spoonfull (you can dump it from the bottle if you are careful) put it on the inside of the groove where the rubber O ring is. Rub the oil all around the rubber surface. Install the filter(clockwise). Also, if your filter sits with the opening up on the engine, most people will recommend that you fill it 1/2 to full with oil, to prevent initial startup oil starvation. Follow the directions, which are almost always printed on the filter and snug it down as far as the directions say, usually 1/2 to 1 full turn after initial contact.

4)Remove the oil filler cap, take a look at the under side, no moose, right? Wipe it clean and wipe the filler hole clean too. Get your oil and start filling it up, follow your owners manual for quantity, usually about 5 quarts. You might want a funnel or one of those spigots that fit on the bottle. Wipe up any spills. Put the cap back on.

5) Take the drain pan and newspaper out and then start the engine. The oil pressure light should go out in a lot less than 30 seconds, we hope. While it is running get out and check for leaks around the filter and the drain plug. If everything looks good you can shut down. Let it sit for a few minutes and check the oil dipstick level. Should be between the add oil mark and full. It is OK if it is maybe 1/4 inch above the full, but not OK if below the add.

I recommend putting the old oil into the empty bottles and taking them back to the store for recycling. And the kitty litter is for any spilled oil that escaped from the pan and paper. Sprinkle it on and it will soak up most of the mess.

Good Luck, and it is not hard to do at all, I just went step by step like you said. Usually takes me maybe 15 mintues to do. I recommend a piece of carpet or a tarp for you to lay on so you won't get dirt on your clothes.

Borax, Lava Soap and the hand cleaners sold at the store should get rid of most mess on your hands and arms, if any.

Jim Henderson

 

Good instructions from the previous poster. Let me add my two cents: By a quality filter from a parts store (most of them have instructions on the box or filter). Also, if you have a vo-tech or community college close by they normally offer very low cost seminars on basic auto maintenance (defintely worth a look). In addition, the book "Auto Repair for Dummies" is a good book for learning the basics.

Best of Luck!

Doop <
76 F-100 Custom (96K Original North Dakota miles) 360-C6 All stock

64 F-250 (Bought from the north slope of Alaska) 292-T18 4 speed