help with better power, mpg in 5.4
#1
08-06-2009, 12:36 PM
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
help with better power, mpg in 5.4
I have a 2004 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 5.4 and auto trans.
I would like to inporve mpg, if possible.
But the main thing is power. This thing is a dog. What can I do to get power and maybe better mpg.
I do not know anthing about programers or chips. What one does what it says it will? would be willing to pay 300+ for something that really works.
what about cold air intake and exaust?
thanks
wendal
I would like to inporve mpg, if possible.
But the main thing is power. This thing is a dog. What can I do to get power and maybe better mpg.
I do not know anthing about programers or chips. What one does what it says it will? would be willing to pay 300+ for something that really works.
what about cold air intake and exaust?
thanks
wendal
#2
08-06-2009, 02:34 PM
Imho
With regards to programmers, they do help with MPG's & performance to a limited degree, richening up the fuel mixture a tad, advancing the ignition timing a few degrees and firming up the shifts on the automatic transmissions. If you drive with a feather foot and use a programmer, you can probably get about 1 mpg more in the city and 2-3 on the highway. I would highly suggest purchasing a programmer from an org that has been in the business for 10 years (example Superchips). There are many who claim to be programmers but if you do a search on any site you will quickly find many disasters as a result of these "experts". For customer service, i really liked Strippermotorsports. They also carry other brands and were very helpful on the phone responding to questions, etc. which was much more than the other retailers were even willing to do!
With regards to CAI's, If you do an online search for “air filter test” there is a lot of very good information. IMHO, the CAI units are NOT WORTH THE $$! Unless you are talking about a system that was specifically designed for a specific application there are very little hp/tq gains actually achieved in a street use vehicle (especially low rpm trucks that don't see over 5200 rpm)and there are very few docs that these mfg’s can produce that actually show an increase in hp/tq in the power-band range of a relatively stock street vehicle.
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system the only issue that really exists is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design- that does reduce the intake efficiency a little but makes it very quiet!. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure it terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
aexhaust, boy there is a lot of discussion on this. Basically, the cats are the greatest restriction point, if you have over 80,000 miles &/or over 8 years of age on the oem cat, replacing it with a high flow cat will really make a difference in the throttle response (if you have less age/mileage you will fail the smog test as required be fed regs). Aftermarket mufflers are good, but combined with a good air filter may get you another 1 mpg, with the high flow cat, double that. These CAD designed cat-back systems, well they are very nice but you can do a search on the net for "muffler flow tests" and see the real flow specs of a wide range of performance mufflers, then IMHO go to a local muffler shop and get it installed for about 1/2 of what the CAD/mandrel bend systems cost. While mandrel bent systems do provide for a much smoother flow of air, the benefits are typiclaly not found in rpms less than 4500, which is where I trucks run 90% of the time.
The 4x4 system adds weight and some parasidic drag which is tough to overcome. Changing diff gears will help move that heavy beast better and will require less throttle to accel on the freeway but the cost for a 4X4 is typically around $1000-$1500. For every .25 gear ratio change, your rpms will change by 300 at about 65 mph which may not be cost effective for you.
Ideally, a small supercharger is probably the best HP/TQ/MPG for the $, but that can cost $4000-$5000 depending on the system.
Another option is to replace all-terrain type tires with a street/trail type that is what I will call of the high psi type- typically 50 psi. They are a little more rough riding but have a substantial reduction in roll resistance- that does generate 1-2 more mpg and you'll find (seat of the pants) that the truck seems to accel better/smoother.
With regards to CAI's, If you do an online search for “air filter test” there is a lot of very good information. IMHO, the CAI units are NOT WORTH THE $$! Unless you are talking about a system that was specifically designed for a specific application there are very little hp/tq gains actually achieved in a street use vehicle (especially low rpm trucks that don't see over 5200 rpm)and there are very few docs that these mfg’s can produce that actually show an increase in hp/tq in the power-band range of a relatively stock street vehicle.
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system the only issue that really exists is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design- that does reduce the intake efficiency a little but makes it very quiet!. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure it terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
aexhaust, boy there is a lot of discussion on this. Basically, the cats are the greatest restriction point, if you have over 80,000 miles &/or over 8 years of age on the oem cat, replacing it with a high flow cat will really make a difference in the throttle response (if you have less age/mileage you will fail the smog test as required be fed regs). Aftermarket mufflers are good, but combined with a good air filter may get you another 1 mpg, with the high flow cat, double that. These CAD designed cat-back systems, well they are very nice but you can do a search on the net for "muffler flow tests" and see the real flow specs of a wide range of performance mufflers, then IMHO go to a local muffler shop and get it installed for about 1/2 of what the CAD/mandrel bend systems cost. While mandrel bent systems do provide for a much smoother flow of air, the benefits are typiclaly not found in rpms less than 4500, which is where I trucks run 90% of the time.
The 4x4 system adds weight and some parasidic drag which is tough to overcome. Changing diff gears will help move that heavy beast better and will require less throttle to accel on the freeway but the cost for a 4X4 is typically around $1000-$1500. For every .25 gear ratio change, your rpms will change by 300 at about 65 mph which may not be cost effective for you.
Ideally, a small supercharger is probably the best HP/TQ/MPG for the $, but that can cost $4000-$5000 depending on the system.
Another option is to replace all-terrain type tires with a street/trail type that is what I will call of the high psi type- typically 50 psi. They are a little more rough riding but have a substantial reduction in roll resistance- that does generate 1-2 more mpg and you'll find (seat of the pants) that the truck seems to accel better/smoother.
