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ok my neighbor has a 06 6.0 f250 some times it starts some times it wont, and when it does it takes a few seconds i've changed the fuel filters drained the water separator his batteries are good air filter is good and oil is good. I did noticed though when it is cranking and not starting it's not showing any oil pressure is that normal when it wont crank? or does it build when it starts? thanks for your help i will check back tommorrow.
I did noticed though when it is cranking and not starting it's not showing any oil pressure is that normal when it wont crank? or does it build when it starts?
My gauges don't come alive until the motor has kicked over and then the PCM energizes them. So that is normal. Doubtful that the issue is low pressure oil related.
Too many things can cause a no-start condition, so there is no point in shotgunning possible causes without more info. The good news is that an '06 should still be under the engine warranty of 5yr/100kmiles.
A "no-start" condition could be from quite a few things. Here are some discussed
• Shift lever not in park or neutral. Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.
• Bad fuel - drain the HFCM water separator and inspect fuel.
• Clogged air filter – Inspect the filter minder, then inspect and/or replace filter.
• Air in the fuel - most frequently caused by a bad seal on the HFCM cap (or bad o-ring). Replace o-ring, lube w/ oil and re-install carefully.
• No fuel flow (clogged fuel filter, bad HFCM, clogged pump suction line, etc). First, remove secondary fuel filter, empty fuel from bowl, and then turn the key (don't start) to see if HFCM is filling the upper fuel bowl, Then, change filters or, if possible, check fuel pressure if you don't mind a little work to install a gauge (install one on the secondary fuel bowl sample port). You can also blow air through fuel lines if you think they may be plugged.
• Oil problems (foaming, loss of viscosity: too thick or fuel diluted). Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
• Bad batteries (coupled w/ bad alternator) or bad starter (needs 500 rpm to start IIRC) - load test each batteries and test alternator.
• Bad ground or corroded terminals/wires. Check battery and charging system wires and cables.
• Bad anti-theft system or remote-start system - disconnect system and see if it starts.
• Bad ICP sensor. The ICP sensor harness can be removed and the PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor.
• Bad glow plugs or module. You can make a cursory check on this system if you have an inductive (clamp on) amp meter (200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same.
• If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start.
More things that could cause a "no-start" condition:
• Injector oil latching (or stiction). New flash from the dealership can often times help.
• A stuck or bad injection pressure regulator (IPR).
• Injector o-ring failure (or other type of injector failure).
• Bad Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM).
• Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
• Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).
• High pressure oil rail o-ring failure.
• High pressure oil stand pipe o-ring failure or the pipe itself.
• The high pressure oil pump (HPOP) stc fitting (if so equipped - 05's particularly prone to this).
• The high pressure oil branch tube.
• A weak HPOP pump.
• A bad PCM (computer).
• Bad Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor.
this is taken strait from (mark "bismic"),anouther user ,on one of his post in a different thread. maybe it will help you out
k thanks for that i will do some checking, what is sad about this whole thing is he has never owned a ford (chevy man) and i talked him into a ford and then this happens 6months later.
i was taking a better look under the hood and i noticed a oil deposits next to the turbo by the blue hose coupler on the pipe that runs down the left side into the inter cooler
fram oil and fram fuel filters. there is something i did find out he is using penzoil 10/40, instead of 15/40, would that cause any of these issues?
Not related to your starting issues, but I would advise to use only Motorcraft or Racor fuel and oil filters. I won't go into any details since there are many threads already discussing this topic.
Originally Posted by bigrigmike
i was taking a better look under the hood and i noticed a oil deposits next to the turbo by the blue hose coupler on the pipe that runs down the left side into the inter cooler
The following is from Dieselman's site:
Charge Air Cooler (intercooler) leaks oil or hose blows off, driver's side:
If excessive oil is leaking from the driver's side intercooler to pipe hose, replace the clamps with spring loaded ones which will better accommodate thermal expansion. If the driver's side hose has blown off, replace the tube assembly along with the clamps.
It does not have the anti foaming additives required for the 6.0
If it's not a CJ-4 rated oil (API label on bottle) Change oil immediatly using only a motorcraft oil filter and use a brand name 15W40 diesel motor oil that's rated CJ-4. Wal-Mart has Motorcraft filters and Shell Rotella-T oil. Capacity is 15 quarts.
the owner did tell me it used to have a international fuel filter conversion on it or some crap like that, but he switched it back to norm when he did his first oil change.