That is the same build date as mine. The earliest we have seen here is 1-98.

Here is a TSB for front spring squeak. LINK Like I said earlier my truck didn't even have spring tip isolators.

Comparison between Earl and Late '99.

Some differences between Early 99 and 99.5

Credit to Chase (aka superduty4x4), Ron aka (Ron's Power Stroke) and in Bold credit to Jet (aka SolidGround) RIP.
It I did not credit everyone envolved with this I apologize.
Early 99 has a wicked wheel stock from the factory. And much smaller turbo (spools faster, though)

The early99 has 120cc(AB code) injectors and the late99-03 has 140cc(AD code) injectors.

The early99 has 2" intake runners. The late99-03 has 3" intake runners.

The early99 has a 15* swash plate HPOP. The late99-03 has a 17* swash plate HPOP.

The early99 has one glow plug relay. The late99-03 has one glow plug relay and one air HYPERLINK "https://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=302"intake heater relay side by side. Both relays are above the passenger side valve cover toward the front of the truck.

The early99 has a totally different air HYPERLINK "https://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=696"filter that is not inter changeable with the late99-03 (except for DRW trucks) . But you can put the late99 air cleaner assembly in the early99 truck. The only three aftermarket air filters that work on the early99 are the AFE stage 2, the AIS and the KWIKK 6637.

The early99 track rod has smaller mounting bolts than the late99-03. (except for DRW trucks)

The early99 has shallower rotors than the late99-03. (except DRW trucks)

The early99 has shorter hub-bearings than the late99-03. (except DRW trucks)

The early99 front axle U bolts are square where they go over the spring pack. The late99 U bolts are round. (except DRW trucks)

The early99 has a different pitman arm than the late99-03. (except DRW trucks)

The early99 does not have the AIH like the late99-03.

The early99 does not have the automatic transmission fluid cooler in the radiator.

The early99 has no indicator light showing that "cruise" is on. Late99-03 has a cruise light that will come on when you set the cruise control. The early99 truck has the light in the dash already. A newer PCM(Yes it will plug in and will run better too) must be used to make the cruise light illuminate. It is a green light on the right side edge, half way up

 

Ok Thanks, I'm glad the 6637 still works I ordered that yesterday.
I take it a good mod would be a late 99+ intake and bigger injectors?

I'm not at all sure what a swash plate is I suppose a little more google is in order.

I'm assuming the AIH is to help cold starts?

Does the rotor difference mean I have to order some funky rotor size when I get slotted rotors or will the late ones fit?

Whats the deal with the internal tranny cooler? just cheaper for them?

Cruise control light is there but doesnt work?

 

Hey, welcome to FTE.

 

New member. Is anyone getting my replys?

01 excursion 4x4 7.3.

Door lock acuators in-op. Any cheap fixes for this. Some said tin foil will do the trick.

Anyone know how to do that trick.

 

Help new member

anyone getting my reply

how do you start a new thread

 

I did the turbo and intake upgrade. LINK Haven't put in hybrid injectors yet, but coming soon.

AIH is more for cold running. Doesn't really help with cold starts. Most have deleted the AIH and put a plug in the hole.

You don't have to get "funky" size just make sure they're for an "Early 99".

I prefer not having the radiator cooler and only the air to fluid cooler. Don't have to worry about the tranny cooler leaking.

This will explain the swash plate. LINK1 & LINK2 A 17° pump is more efficient then a 15° pump. LINK3 This link will give you a look at the HPOP internals.

The cruise control lamp may or may not light with a newer PCM.

 

Welcome to

Here is a link to fixing the door lock actuators. LINK.

There is a seperate section for Excursions. Excursions - King of SUVS

 

Alright I got my 6637 on fairly easily the other day. Didn't need anything but the filter just took off the tube put some soapy water on it and popped it right on.


I changed the oil today and got a sample for blackstone. While I was changing the oil I accidentally knocked off the hood's little rubber stopper.

On my hunt for it (which met with negative results) I found this


Which I believe is supposed to be holding my battery down. I also found the adapter for my optima battery below the water bottle. It looks like the battery mounts stud was sheered clean off. Does this happen alot? any easy fixes? After seeing the driver side battery bungy corded to a 2X4. I probably should of checked the passenger side too.

 

There is a long bolt that goes through that.

 

Yeah that bolt was definitely sheered/cut off then. There's threads sticking out of the battery mount about 3/4" of an inch.

Also I checked my CPS and it's the old black one. Ford says the recall on it is open. Should I have it replaced?

 

You need to get a piece of 4" exhaust pipe and put it between the intake and the 6637. I did like you and put it right into the intake originally but what will happen is that the 6637 will begin to shrink under that hose clamp and eventually (like within a couple of months) it will just pop right out of the intake. The exhaust pipe will fit into both the intake and the 6637 snuggly so you can hose clamp both onto it and it will stay a lot better than the way you have it. I know it seems easier to just do it like you did (it sure did to me) but you're going to find that if you leave it that way, before you know it the filter will just pop off the intake hose.

 

How long did It last? not that I want to be ghetto I just have a few things on my plate right now.

 

Its not worth gambling to see if it won't leak. Get ahold of me and I will help you out. I offer a kit that includes the 4" piece you need. If you can't afford it right now I am sure I can find you something.

 

If you check it every week and tighten as needed, you can make it rok for a while. I think a 3" PVC coupler will work also, and should be less than $10 for the hose clamp and coupler.

 

No don't have it replaced. See if you can get them to hand you the new grey one and use it as a spare. If not then don't bother. If you need spares let me know, I can hook you up.