ah, i figured that is where it was coming from... the arizona i mean

i think i can live with it until i pull the engine out... and rebuild, unless it gets worse

i was told by my dad that the "plink" noise i am hearing could very well be my carrier bearing... since it has such a long drive line. might be rattling around in there

 

The so called "carrier" bearing is prolly bad, but I've never heard of one going plinkity-plink.

Usually when this puppy fails, it howls like a stuck pig. This sealed bearing is pressed onto the slip yoke of the coupling (rear drive) shaft.

D9TZ4800A .. Driveshaft Center Support Kit / Includes the bearing, shims, U shaped rubber support and bracket / Available from Ford.

Fits: 1961/83 F100 / 1975/96 F150 / Most 1961/96 F250's.

MSRP: $53.00 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $38.16.

Y2K = Millennium Ford in Seattle WA.

btw: If you go to a parts store and ask for a carrier bearing, multiple questions may be asked pertaining to what rear axle your truck has.

A carrier bearing is another name for a differential cone & roller bearing.

Correct terminology: Driveshaft Center Support Bearing, which for these applications, is 1.37" I.D.

Ppl here on FTE use that carrier bearing term all the time. I wonder how many of 'em get the wrong bearing?

 

probably a few, i just go off what my father tells me then look it up in my LMC truck mag i got in the mail... its good to know the correct terminology....

next month is the month of maintenance on this beast, i am going to try to replace the sparkplugs, wires, points, and condenser (was told to do them all at the same time) and maybe look at the U-joints. though stuff could just be loose under there. after all i did take it on a 200 mile trip...

my brother is coming over this weekend and he is a HUGE motorhead, ill probably pick his brain...

this baby needs a lot of love but at least it starts and runs! it gets me from A to B for now.

 

Motorcraft 'tune up' part numbers for a 1961/64 292 in an F100/350:

Spark plugs: BFR82 / BRF92 if a hotter plug is required.

Points: DP12 / Rotor: DR5 / Condenser: DC13A / Cap: DH6

If you replace the plug wires, you'll prolly have to buy a universal kit.

Motorcraft part numbers can be crossed over to the brands autoparts stores sell.

The reason I'm passing this info along is...most autoparts store parts personnel today are clueless, since some of this jazz hasn't been used since 1976.

One member here went to a Ford dealer to buy these parts.

The beetle-brained pinhead behind the counter told him no points or condenser existed after 1959 because all 1960 and later Ford's have electronic ignition.

Uh huh...yeah right. That's true after 1976 on all, true after 1974 on some, but not true prior to 1974...on anything!

 

Hey, ND, would his year of truck have a road draft tube on the 292? If so, that would probably explain why his dripping oil looks like the old dirty oil he changed.

Just a thought,
SPark

 

thanks for the part numbers! do you have a ballpark on how much it will cost me? gotta budget

 

Prolly less than 50 bucks at the local El Cheapo autoparts store.

The points, condenser, rotor and cap are the same for all Ford car/truck V8's thru 1973.

 

A 1962 not sold new in CA will still have the tube. All sold new in CA vehicles after 1960 have the PCV system.

With/without the tube, the crankcase ventilation filter is present (see post #4).

It's prolly clogged up solid, and hasn't been replaced since LBJ was Prez.

 

well, after a few days of driving the old monster its doing pretty well...though there are some strange things that i need some expert advice on.

first is the carb, now adjusting the fuel/air mixture is a tricky process i am told... i dont have a vacuum gauge just yet, (broke)

i am told though that when you turn both mixture screws completely in the engine should die or show signs of dying and then you adjust your mixture from there... having them both turned in while the engine was warm, it still ran... then maybe after about 30-40 seconds it would slow down and die... so i am figuring that is what its supposed to do? and i adjust until it doesn't do that?

my problem is i am still running a bit rich... and i know i know... probably should just rebuild the carb, but at this point it will have to wait until the end of the month (payday)

also as far as when i get paid... i have to register the beast so my repair fund this month might be rather limited... my goal was to get a carb kit, and do a little cleaning on the points and regap the plugs. (some old ford guys tell me you can get away sometimes with cleaning the points with the striker of a matchbook. )

i guess what i need advice on is what i should start working on first... anything right now to improve performance and get a bit better gas milage.. im not looking for honda-like fuel economy, and i wouldnt mind 10mpg so much but the poor old ford has no power... the engine is pretty sluggish... and from what i am told by people who have driven and ridden in it say its running sluggish... could this be the ignition system? or is it my carb just piddling gas everywhere?

also, should i keep the oil bath air filter or go for air intake?

 

well its been a while... figured i should update the status on this monster... pics will be in my photo album soon

had the carb rebuilt the guy who did it said everything was lookin okay..but it did need a rebuild... he set everything to factory specs so i have to go and re adjust my floats and such... but after that it still runs rich.... so i am checking vacuum lines now.

i also took the valve covers off and replaced the gaskets. that was perhaps the most disgusting thing i have done so far... i found out that they painted the inside of the valve covers so there were little pieces of paint chips mixed in with the sludge. so after much cleaning, i got all of it out. sanded the inside of the valve covers and replaced them with new gaskets... now it runs like a dream... no loud clicking or gas smell in my oil...

though as one final measure i am going to run some motor flush stuff through the engine before i change the oil. just to get the remaining gunk out of there.

my next task, which i do need some pointers on is how to adjust the timing... i hear you can do it using a dwell meter. which i have... i just dont know how to adjust it.

any help would be awesome...

 

i'm by no means an expert but i would be very careful running 'cleaners' through that engine. with the age and condition of the gaskets that stuff might eat right through and open a pandora's box of problems. if it's running better and a rebuild is on the horizon i would just leave it be.

 

yeah, it might be best to count my blessings right now... that tiny bit of seafoam i did put in it cleaned a lot of crap out of the engine... a lot of gunk... it runs like a champ now... starts up usually on the first turn over. this oil change will be the last before winter (i drive it maybe 4 to 8 miles a day...) i am thinkin tonight i am going to take a bunch of pictures of the vehicle so you people can see what this old beast looks like.

 

Did you ever replace the original air cleaner with a modern one? If so, have you noticed a difference in how it is running? I am going to replace the one on my '65 F250 as I hear that they are very restrictive. I have a question, though - if the carb is rebuilt to "stock" settings for a engine that had an oil bath air cleaner but now has a paper filter air cleaner will it be running lean?

 

you need to get a shop manual for your year truck..be patient on e-bay and you will be able to pick one up fairly cheap
the cable running to your rear sets the emergency brake,as soon as possible you will want clean out and replace fluid in your master cyl then bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest point.
again if you changed the oil and are still dripping black oil it is either coming from your blow by tube. it comes out of the valley cover at the back of the engine behind your intake manifold, and runn alongside your bell housing

 

yeah, it does not leak anymore oil now that i have replaced the valve cover gaskets... and my plugs are not fouling anymore since i cleaned them too... the engine needs a bath too... really badly... might do that this weekend

LBF... i have also noticed the oil bath filter really hurting my performance... wihtout the filter the truck ran like a beast... the second i put it on it bogged down and nearly died... my goal is to go junk yard hunting this weekend and find a air filter housing off an old ford. though i know there are ones you can buy that has it all built in? not sure... numberdummy might.