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Now first off I am not going to be able to do this build for about another 3 years 4 months and 3 weeks as i will be off serving my country but I am looking to build a street rod out of my 1973 Ford F100 Ranger XLT 390 I have been working on some parts lists for the build the vast majority of which I found on summit racing. I was hoping people could give me some advice on what they think I am missing and need to find.
The truck as i said is a 73 F100 Ranger XLT with a 390 and a C6 automatic tranny 2WD.
For other parts like a lowering kit I am still shopping around I am thinking about going with DJM's kit if any one has used it would you kindly send me some pictures I would like to see before and after stance.
First off, Thank you for doing what you do for us.
I've used the DJM lowering kit, and have posted a couple of pics of it. It the yellow 76 flareside posted in the 2wd pic post thread. I think if you go through that thread, you'll see a couple more lowered to varying degrees. Including one that has been slammed.
If you are looking for a true hot rod, you may want to consider swapping in a complete motor, maybe a 460 from Ford racing. You may also want to look at some body mods.
Yea I actually have a 1984 460 that I am rebuilding at the moment with a few more tweeks we hope to hit around 650hp but I have a plan for the body as will I intend to shave the doors and suck shave off the huge side mirrors and downsize them to a 3*4 square mirror enough to see but doesn't dominate the side of the truck. Also am going to shave the fuel filler and place it in the bed. Going to remove the rear bumper and add a roll pan. I still haven't decided on a color yet but I was thinking a candied red of some sort.
Just some ideas for you. I shaved the door handles. I'm using some stainless fastners with an acorn nut for aninternal latch. I still haven't hooked up the electric locks. Maybe by the end of the summer. NPD has small 3" or 4" round mirrors that attach to the top of the door like the old style mirrors They are reasonably priced. I relocated my gas tube to the bed as well. It is a real PITA. I used a marine filler tube (which mounts flush with the bed). If you are going to replace the tank, replace it with a tank that doesn't have the second tube (Ford used both styles during this era, Maybe Numberdummy can explain why and which part to use). I had to hook up a remote vent. The marine filler tube is smaller than the stock tube and had a heck of a time trying to get everything working properly. I am keeping my eyes open for a larger filler, cause It takes quite awhile to try to fill the smaller filler tube, with all of the necked down gas hose under the bed. I shaved my front bumper, here is a link to the shaving the bumper project http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...ghlight=bumper . Haven't decided on the back bumper yeat, but was thinking of having an aluminum one made out of U channel.
Well, guess great minds think alike. I have a 74 f100 Ranger XLT that was an original 460 equipped pickup. I drove it in High school, and we used to hide beer in the side tool box. LOL. I have boxed the frame, c notched the rear end and added a 4 bar set up with coilover shocks. I narrowed the 9 inch 4.5 inches so it would match the track width of the new front suspension. The front got an MII rack and pinion from fatman fabrications. My plans are to shave the door handles and fuel filler, and possibly the cowl vents and drip rail. The 460 is at the machine shop now and I am working on the body painfully slowly. I intend to paint it the original colors of Candy Apple red and Wimbeldon white with all the orginal body side mouldings. I have an original, NOS ford rear bumper, but havent decided if I will got that route or the roll pan route.
I shaved my drip rails too. I probably wouldn't do it again. It was ugly. A lot of welding, followed by grinding followed by more welding/grinding, ad nauseum. Probably cause it was one of my first welding projects. I used some metal ready as a filler.
wow looked good but I am going to use a chrome bumper from LMC to have a brand new un tweaked one
And yea I just love the looks of the old trucks they are so styling for my truck I am going to remove the rain gutters and I haven't figured it out yet but I want to shave the black ABS off the drip rail so I can have just chrome strips running down the side but I dont have my heart set on that yet either
wow looked good but I am going to use a chrome bumper from LMC to have a brand new un tweaked one
And yea I just love the looks of the old trucks they are so styling for my truck I am going to remove the rain gutters and I haven't figured it out yet but I want to shave the black ABS off the drip rail so I can have just chrome strips running down the side but I dont have my heart set on that yet either
The drip rail is the rain gutter and the black abs is on the body side moldings.
I used a new bumper for mine too. They are available either painted or chromed. Unfortunately, I think most of them are from overseas. Since I was going to paint mine anyway, I just stuck with the un-plated bumper and save a few bucks. Still trying to figure out what I want to do with the rear bumper/pan. No one makes a steel pan for the flare sides that I'm aware of.
Brake line and fuel line kits that didn't fit. Pricing that was substantially more than competitors for same or inferior product. One of the things I tried to do was accumulate parts when I had extra money, This means you may have parts for a year or more before you are you are able to install it. Many of the top companies out there understand, and are willing to work with the hot rodder. Companies who have helped me out and gone the extra step are Summit Racing, American Auto wire, Edelbrock, Holley, MSD, Ford Racing and National Parts Depot. When I am looking to buy a part, I look at products these folks handle first. Example: I attended aseminar through IDIDIT about 3 years ago, American Autowire offered a discount on a new wiring kit. I just competed the install this spring. I was still able to call their tech guys and discuss the install. They even warrantied a bad ignition switch. One of the guys from Ford racing hooked me up on some very hard to find 460 parts, that weren't available anywhere. I never even bought any parts from ford racing for this project. When I had problems with initial startup, Ford Racing, Edelbrock, Holley and MSD all provided great tech support. Turned out being a bad MSD Blaster II Coil that I'd had sitting new for over a year and bad gas. MSD replaced the coil even though it was out of warranty.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.