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Sloppy Steering on 91 E350

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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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Sloppy Steering on 91 E350

I have a 91 E350 Diesel that has some sloppy steering. It seems that I can move the steering wheel around a little bit without affecting the direction of the van. What can be done to fix this? Could this be because of worn suspension bushings? The steering damper appears to be newer but was replaced by the previous owner. Any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 05:28 AM
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tiopet
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Mine's also got a sloppy steering. (1994 E-350 7.3 Diesel)
Found out that one of the ball joints are shot. The rest is quite loose as well.

Get under the vehicle and put your hand on the ball joints, one at a time, and get someone to move the steering wheel back and forth. You can feel the slack if one of them are shot.

I'm replacing all the steering ball joints and link rods on mine.

Also I'm suspecting the trailing arm rubber bushings is what makes the front end vibrate slightly when driving more than 30 mph.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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Ok, I will check that out. I have about a 1200 mile road trip I am going to do coming up at the end of the month so I want to get some of the nagging issues resolved first. Looks like its time for some bushing and ball joint replacements.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 01:13 AM
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From: END OF THE OREGON TRAIL
1991 E350 is gonna have King Pins instead of ball joints.
I would check the radius arm bushings, draglink, and tie rods ends. Replacing Radius arm bushings on my 1991 helped a lot with the wandering.
When radius arm bushings are worn out the front tires toe out and cause the wandering.(Most common problem on Ford Twin I Beam suspension).
I always install Polyurethane radius arm bushings they last much longer than the rubber bushings.
I just finished installing all new Polyurethane control arm, radius arm, and sway bar bushings on my 1994 today.
My 1994 E350 has needed drag link tie rod ends and ball joints at 125K to keep it from wandering and eating up tires.
Good luck on your Road Trip.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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Thanks 93! I checked this morning and sure enough, basically every bushing you mentioned is in need of replacement. Is this generally a job that a shadetree mechanic can do? It seems that the sway bar bushings can be replaced easily enough but not so sure about stuff like the bushings on the ends of the sway bar, drag links, and the control arm bushings.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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From: END OF THE OREGON TRAIL
If you have done suspension work before it's not that tough. It will require some good size sockets a good jack and stands. Some bushings you may need a press to change.
Fords are less labor intensive than some others, any good tire center should be able to give you an estimate.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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I found that just lubing the front end- ball joints, kingpins- did wonders for the drivability without replacement.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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definitely inspect the radius arm bushings. as they wear, the radius arm and bracket will go metal to metal and eventually break. i did not keep up with mine and at 150k had to replace both sides. i also found that the draglink and tie rod ends tended to wear out about every 40k on my van. so at 120k i had a custom set made using 1.25" DOM tubing and carbon fiber insert heim joints. i am at 250k w/ no signs of wear on the new set. not saying this is what you should do, just suggesting you keep an eye on wear.

neil in san marcos
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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definitely inspect the radius arm bushings. as they wear, the radius arm and bracket will go metal to metal and eventually break. i did not keep up with mine and at 150k had to replace both sides. i also found that the draglink and tie rod ends tended to wear out about every 40k on my van. so at 120k i had a custom set made using 1.25" DOM tubing and carbon fiber insert heim joints. i am at 250k w/ no signs of wear on the new set. not saying this is what you should do, just suggesting you keep an eye on wear.

neil in san marcos
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Well I took it to a shop and found that about 80% of the bushings in the front suspension system are shot, the front stabilizer bar is blown out, and the king pins need to be replaced. Thankfully, I called my dad and he said no problem, that hes done them before. He's had two ford vans before, both older then mine but in the same series. Ive never done suspension work before and it looked like the sway bar and tie rod bushings would be a piece of cake, but the king pin... I wouldnt even know where to start. So hopefully next weekend my dad and I can get all of the suspension work done.

Neil, about those bushings that you are talking about. Is the main benefit just no wear? How much did they cost? I ask because I am not too far from you in downtown SD. If the shop that did them for you is local, maybe they can fab another set if they arent too cost prohibitive. Otherwise... poly bushings it is.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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sory if my post was confusing. do the poly bushings and just use replacement draglink and tie rod ends from the parts supply of your choice. i had custom made drag link and steering parts made that replaced the tie rod ends with high dollar heim joints.

i am up in san marcos, i do have a few of the heavy duty tools required to do my front end, but remember i have ball joints and you have kingpins. perfectly happy to loan you some of my stuff if you come up short. i don't know if you will get you replacement kingpin set with the bushings sized, but lmk if you need a recommend for a machine shop. i know a few good ones around town. if the radius arms are shot, give me a call and i will point u to a killer boneyard for budget spares.

neil
7605196569
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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From: San Marcos, CA
sory if my post was confusing. do the poly bushings and just use replacement draglink and tie rod ends from the parts supply of your choice. i had custom made drag link and steering parts made that replaced the tie rod ends with high dollar heim joints.

i am up in san marcos, i do have a few of the heavy duty tools required to do my front end, but remember i have ball joints and you have kingpins. perfectly happy to loan you some of my stuff if you come up short. i don't know if you will get you replacement kingpin set with the bushings sized, but lmk if you need a recommend for a machine shop. i know a few good ones around town. if the radius arms are shot, give me a call and i will point u to a killer boneyard for budget spares.

neil
7605196569
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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From: END OF THE OREGON TRAIL
Originally Posted by Dannym
I found that just lubing the front end- ball joints, kingpins- did wonders for the drivability without replacement.
Good point simple things sometimes help the most
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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How can the sway bar be shot??

I know the bushings can deform and need replacement, even if urethane... but the bar itself??
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 11:49 PM
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Well, I didnt get as much done this weekend as I wanted to but I was happy with what got done. I replaced all of the bushings on the sway bar including the end links. While it didnt correct all of the issues, it did make a noticeable difference especially when it came to wandering at highway speed. There is still some wheel vibration issues that can either be the kingpin, the steering gear or wheel balance or a combination of all 3. My dad is going to get the king pin parts and all the bushings that go in there as well as a new steering stabilizer. And once those are in I am going to go get the wheels all rotated and balanced as well as doing a front end alignment. Hopefully that resolves most of the problems.


I think the major score this weekend was a front bumper, a side barndoor with pop out privacy glass window, and two rear pop out windows with privacy glass as well. Successful trip to pick-a-part.

Thanks for the help everybody!
 
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