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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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HID lights

Since i changed to HIDs back in February my truck engine shuts of when the automatic lights turn on(10+ times since Feb.).It could be running @50 MPH or a idle,it doesn't matter or it shuts off for a split second but not enough to shut the engine off(idle drops and runs good after that).Its been doing more often then before and sometimes when i try to start it,it happened already as soon as i turned the key to on and it doesn't start it just cranks over.So my question is there something that is hooked up to the lighting system that will turn of the engine.I hope it is not the lights its self as i cant imagine going back to halogens.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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It's a noise spike caused by the HV power supplies (aka ballasts) coming on. Mine did that too, but I was able to minimize it by grounding the cases directly to the frame. It still acted up a little, but no further stalls. Here's the idea -- this is the driver's side using an existing bolt right to the front clip frame. Passenger's side is similar, but mounted to the inner fender instead of the front clip:
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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I'm interested in HID's fellas. What kit did you go with and other than the problem listed, how do you like them? I was looking at some of the ebay kits, but didn't know how good they were. What temprature range are you running?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kupaa
Since i changed to HIDs back in February my truck engine shuts of when the automatic lights turn on(10+ times since Feb.).It could be running @50 MPH or a idle,it doesn't matter or it shuts off for a split second but not enough to shut the engine off(idle drops and runs good after that).Its been doing more often then before and sometimes when i try to start it,it happened already as soon as i turned the key to on and it doesn't start it just cranks over.So my question is there something that is hooked up to the lighting system that will turn of the engine.I hope it is not the lights its self as i cant imagine going back to halogens.

One thing you have to consider is RF interferances. There should be a barrier between the metal HID box and what you mounted it to. The metal in the truck can be come a big huge anntenna if you don't. Also if you move the hookups to the passenger side batteries will help this.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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I am thinking of doing this. Subscribing
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DP-Tuner
One thing you have to consider is RF interferances. There should be a barrier between the metal HID box and what you mounted it to. The metal in the truck can be come a big huge anntenna if you don't. Also if you move the hookups to the passenger side batteries will help this.
What type of material should the barrier be?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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I don't think that's right, Diane. You need to GROUND the case of the ballast to the body of the truck! Mine was floating originally and it tore up everything! Once I grounded the ballasts, there was just a little wiggle in the stock gauges every now & then, and the ABS light would come on occasionally. Before I did this, I had the stalling problem too.

I got mine from here:
http://www.xenonlink.com/
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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I have one ballest on each battery(fog,headlights).I also have a relay for each ballest but that dident seam to help.I will try to ground it to the truck.will a wire screwd to the ballest to the frame work?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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From: Hoschton,GA
Originally Posted by WA.Ranger
What type of material should the barrier be?
I would do a piece of rubber or plastic as an isolator.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kupaa
I have one ballest on each battery(fog,headlights).I also have a relay for each ballest but that dident seam to help.I will try to ground it to the truck.will a wire screwd to the ballest to the frame work?
Yes, but make it as short as possible, and I'd put good connectors on each end of the wire (loop or spade connectors, soldered on preferably). Might want to burnish the contact points and put some type of corrosion protection over them (Noalox or Penetrox).
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
I don't think that's right, Diane. You need to GROUND the case of the ballast to the body of the truck! Mine was floating originally and it tore up everything! Once I grounded the ballasts, there was just a little wiggle in the stock gauges every now & then, and the ABS light would come on occasionally. Before I did this, I had the stalling problem too.

I got mine from here:
http://www.xenonlink.com/

Yes but....if you screw the ballasts to the firewall or anything metal, but don't put a barrier or isolator between the Ballasts and the firewall you will have issues with RF interferences.

To me Chris is having issues with RF. We had the same thing happen on our Rhino's HID's and a customer was having issues with his HID's until he did the barrier between the ballasts. Just offering something to check into.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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I understand, but mine *were* floating, and most of my problems went away when I directly grounded the ballasts. This is an interesting thread now... I'd suggest you try directly grounding them and see what happens. If it gets worse or no improvement, try Diane's suggestion of the rubber insulator.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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Thanks Diane,Joe.I will try Joes first since i have some wire and connector and if that wont work i will use Diane's method.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Cool -- please let us know how this turns out. I'm curious what the fix will be for yours.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Cool -- please let us know how this turns out. I'm curious what the fix will be for yours.
Joe,

This dident work for me i will have to try Diane's way.
 
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