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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Apr-02 AT 12:14 PM (EST)]Have any of you guys used the new Fram drain valve/hose for the oil pan? It looks less prone to damage than the Fumimoto(sic?)drain valve that I have seen on the net. I'm just curious because I keep cars so long that the valve might pay for itself by not having to replace a oil pan because of damaged threads. Either system would be a little neater, easier and faster I would think.
I installed the Fram valve on my Excursion when I did the last oil change. So it is on there but I have not had to drain the oil since. The valve went on with little effort and I think it is a great addition, because draining the oil out of an "X" with the V-10 can be messy. The oil drain hole is sideways and oil launches about 10 to 12 inches horizontal. If you don't get the drain bucket located properly it makes for a real mess.
I will be using a Fumoto valve after my next oil change (next week). However, I will not put it on until I can find a suitable magnet to replace the one I'll lose when I get rid of the stock drain plug.
As far as damage...I doubt it. Ain't nothing gonna break it off. It would have to break the sway bar first. And if an errant rock hit it, I still doubt that it would break.
'Course anything can happen...but if I worried about everything, then I'd never leave my house...
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-May-02 AT 02:02 AM (EST)]O.K....I couldn't stand it any longer, so I caved in and changed my oil at 2200 miles instead of going the normal 3000 miles, just to test the valve. I sure like that Fram valve, although I think their oil filters are not the best. No mess until I got to the filter removal part, then it happened. I guess I should learn to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to allow the oil to drain, but I'm real dangerous with a hammer and screwdriver. It's real tight under my Excursion when I'm lying on my back and I might center punch my hand or finger, or something more vital, so I will continue to put up with the drip of the filter. Get the valve, it works well as far as I can tell. About $12 at Wally World.
Hey- I was tempted to get one of these Fram valves, but I like to see the hot oil rush out, presumably carrying any sludge with it. The Fram valve looks like it allows a much smaller flow. What do you see? As far as oil pan life...I'm guess I'm the only man alive that torques the plug.
If we are dependent on the rush of oil to carry away any sludge, then our oil is not doing its job (it should keep everything in suspension), or we are going way too long between oil and filter changes. Oil is relatively cheap, and so are filters. Change intervals are governed by operating conditions. 3000 to 5000 miles are about right, depending on your personal preferences. I like the 3000 mile figure myself, and I get 200,000 miles or more on my vehicles with ease and without mechanical failure. It is true that the oil does not flow through the valve like it does through an unobstructed drain hole, but it allows for a much neater oil change, and you can remove the valve periodically to allow the oil to flow from the pan faster, if you like. Let me know what you think....
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Jun-02 AT 08:28 PM (EST)]Well, if I remember my chemistry, suspensions can drop out fairly quickly, and I'm not that concerned with neatness when I change oil (still got the filter, which is a bigger problem anyway); so I guess I'd vote against the Fram valve. I'm not looking for extra places to spend money these days.
But its O.K. with me if you use it, as long as nobody tells about my torqueing the drain plug!
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