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Okay, so my 3-speed column shifting quit working. Only reasonable thing a man can do is install a 3-speed floor shifter...and after searching forum, the Mr. Gasket 3-Speed Floor Shifter #7667A, from O'Reilly's for $71.58 total, looked to be the one.
Now, as I look to mount it to the transmission...I see no way. Anybody got pictures?
I could get one bolt connected somewhere...but this thing isn't going to bolt to my transmission, is it?
Save yourself a bunch of headaches and don't use the Mr. Gasket 3 speed conversion. Adjusting and aligning everything, and then keeping it all aligned is a major PITA.
It costs twice as much, but the Hurst Indy is 10x the setup.
Well, I got to use this Mr. Gasket #7667A because it is what I have and need to get my truck on the road again. Looks like a PITA alright! I need to drop the transmission and see if it will bracket attach somehow. See if I can attach the shifter to the transmission...they sure didn't spend any expense on instructions...diagrams...
I remember using a transmission to bellhousing bolt and i believe a top cover bolt to mount it when i did it on my '67. it's been a while. You can do it all easily in vehicle, no need to drop anything.
But look at the shift rods, one has more threading than the other. The shift tab these go to is specific, but the directions don't say which to which. I want to say the one with more thread goes to the frontmost shift ear, but again, it's been 10 years since I installed a Mr. Gasket.
Hoxiii is correct.I would return the mr.gasket set and go on ebay to get the hurst shifter. The difference is phenomenal. I did the mr. casket years ago, the shift throw is long and hangs up constantly. As you already see the install sucks and it does not get any better.My dad has the hurst indy in his 66 for the past 14 years with no problems. You will be left sitting on the side of the highway or replacing the transmision later on with the shifter you just bought.
You can usually buy a hurst off ebay for around the same price or less than you paid for the mr. casket.
Boy guys...that's what I get for using "Search" instead of asking. My column shifter broke and I'm broke down at my house and kinda stranded out in these woods...I had to get a friend bring Mr. Gasket #7667A to me from town 50 miles away after I found it online at O'Reilly's. I was going to replace my clutch with a clutch kit after installing but I think I need to remove the trans to figure this sucker out. I just ordered the used one from the link, hope all parts are there and it ships today. I wish I'd found this info with my forum search...and hope I can return the one in box w/receipt to O'Rielly's wherever I can get running to return it. Local American Auto guy 10 mi. away refuses to order or sell any shifter kits. I'll get my clutch kit from him. Might as well move on to that as I wait for the eBay one to arrive. As much as I hated to hear that, thanks for the heads up!
Hoxiii is correct.I would return the mr.gasket set and go on ebay to get the hurst shifter. The difference is phenomenal. I did the mr. casket years ago, the shift throw is long and hangs up constantly. As you already see the install sucks and it does not get any better.My dad has the hurst indy in his 66 for the past 14 years with no problems. You will be left sitting on the side of the highway or replacing the transmision later on with the shifter you just bought.
You can usually buy a hurst off ebay for around the same price or less than you paid for the mr. casket.
Used Hurst Indy USPS Priority Mail today. Hope it's okay to twist topic along with project instead of opening new threads...Clutch has never worked right in the 4-5 years I've owned the truck. Anyone has always had to ride the clutch to not hop-skip-die. Pictures of Pressure Plate reflects what is on my flywheel. 3 little wavy burns. To me, looks like I have a problem and if just I replace a new Clutch Kit it might still be a rider...any known odds?
Are those 6 bolts all holding it on? Have surface reground? or just bolt up and go as is?
Have the flywheel surfaced, install the new clutch and pressure plate, replace the pilot bearing and install a new throw out bearing. Also inspect the clutch fork, they can wear and cause problems. I would do it all at once - I have tried to skimp and ended up doing 2 or 3 times the work! Also, I saw the application for that 3 speed shifter is up until 1978 or 1979. Is that going to be a problem? I have very little experience with Ford 3 speeds, so I am probably wrong, just a heads up.
It should be fine. That 3 speed transmission looks the same all the way back to my dads 66. That might be when the guy bought it and the packaging only went to78.
Looks like those 6 bolts to the crankshaft end is all that holds the flywheel on. I thought one side of the clutch fork was worn bad, but after looking, that must have been on my old '65 F100. Boy, I sure am trying to do this good enough to not have to get back under here and do it again. Thing is, this is the only vehicle I have left running right now...and it's not running. Kinda making it more urgent to get it going soon. I hate to, but I may have to skip a corner or two. The clutch I removed was facing the right way, kid said they they replaced the clutch before I bought the truck, might have been on backwards before then...somehow causing those 3 burn spots. Anyhow, spot that I'm in, I think I will just see if the new clutch will sit flat on the flywheel this morning. And try and check where and how long it would take to grind the flywheel...or find another one used...gotta go one way or another Monday morning. Thought maybe someone would know more about those 3 burn spots on flywheel...little wavy in those 3 smallish spots...but not warped, I think. Thanks for the help and ideas!
That's not the flywheel that has those burn spots on it, it's the pressure plate. If your flywheel has those same marks, have it cut.
It looks a little wavy from here too. As has been suggested already, I would change everything now or you may end up doing this again on the side of the road somewhere.
That's not the flywheel that has those burn spots on it, it's the pressure plate. If your flywheel has those same marks, have it cut.
It looks a little wavy from here too. As has been suggested already, I would change everything now or you may end up doing this again on the side of the road somewhere.
No, that's not the flywheel in picture, but it reflects what I also see on the flywheel...3 burn marks...
Anyhow, I come up with an idea...thinking I could work those 3 burnt spots on the flywheel like I tested with 220 grt. on the pressure plate...flat sand like a paint job...wet and flat sand...smooth a little...and see if the new clutch will set flat.
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