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What Size Tires? Lift?

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  #16  
Old 07-29-2009, 11:24 PM
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What I'm wondering is rim width. Does a 10" wide rim make your tires come out past the top of the fender wells?

In the pictures in the gallery's they never list wheel width.

I know I like the alum wheels that come out even with the body or maybe an inch past but I don't know if these are 8s or 10s.

I don't want the tires to be 4" wider (on each side) than the body if you know what I mean.

I have a 79 f250 4x4 and I'm looking at a 4" lift with about 32" tires.
 
  #17  
Old 07-29-2009, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4 Bart
What I'm wondering is rim width. Does a 10" wide rim make your tires come out past the top of the fender wells?

I have a 79 f250 4x4 and I'm looking at a 4" lift with about 32" tires.
The way that your tires will or won't stick out is dependent on the backspacing of the wheel. My wheels are almost 10" wide and my tires are 12.5", yet my tires only stick out around 1 - 1.5" (little bit more in the front than in the back).

You know that you can fit 32" tires easily on your truck without a lift and that they will look pretty small with 4", right? If you're going to lift it that much 35's would be a better bet. I don't know why you would pay for a lift, but not actually be utilizing it to put a bigger tire under it...
 
  #18  
Old 08-03-2009, 12:05 PM
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Hi so I wanna put a 4-6" lift on with 36-38 tires on her. I was wondering how i should do the lift. has anyone had any good experence with skyjacker lift kits? they make a 4" lift for the hi-boy or if i should find leafs and add them my self what do you think thank you.
 
  #19  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dkoss
Hi so I wanna put a 4-6" lift on with 36-38 tires on her. I was wondering how i should do the lift. has anyone had any good experence with skyjacker lift kits? they make a 4" lift for the hi-boy or if i should find leafs and add them my self what do you think thank you.
as far as bolt on & go i think you'll be happy w/skyjacker. i had this same susp. on my '76 hi-boy for years & it rode/handled/flexed better than stock & plenty of room for 36''-38'' tires. be sure to get the ''system'', this includes all hardware & shocks. not sure on the extended brk lines,that might be a separate purchase but worth the $$ & there DOT aproved.
 
  #20  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:13 PM
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Do you have to change any steering parts for a 4 inch lift?
 
  #21  
Old 08-03-2009, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alex211
Do you have to change any steering parts for a 4 inch lift?
sorry, should have been more clear,didn't think about the steering. there are not really any parts available to correct steering after the lift. what i did since my power assist was leaky & parts to repair was way over priced for a poor design i simply eliminated the whole unit converting it to a nonpower steer setup & used a drop adj. drag-link for a '78-'79 f250 thats recommended for 2''-4'' inches of lift. i know this is unacceptable for some people so the best option would be to swap a power steer setup off of a '78-''79 f250 but this requires welding & fab skills as its not a bolt-n-go procedure. the other option is to cut the hi-boy Pittman arm & weld a piece in, i dont like this option so i chose to wrestle the steering wheel vs. dieing.
 
  #22  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:36 PM
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I dont have power steering so what would i need to do?
 
  #23  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dkoss
I dont have power steering so what would i need to do?
dkoss, you are better off not having power steering as far as lifting your truck is concerned IMO. what you need to correct the steering after the lift is installed is a adjustable drop drag link for a '78-'79 f250 4x4, skyjacker has this part available. this connects between your pittman arm & the steering arm on your axle. you will have to adj. it to have equal turn radius from left/right & most likely re-center the steering wheel afterwards. to do this make sure the frt wheels are straight (drive trk in a straight line) then disconnect the steer shaft from steer-box & rotate steering wheel to center & reconnect steering shaft. if your interested in the power steer swap use your search feature I'm sure there's plenty of info on this topic! & remember the wider the tire you choose to run the harder it will be to turn steering wheel especially when in 4wd. good luck to you,hope this helps
 
  #24  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:51 PM
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Unfortunately dkoss cant use a drop pitman arm since his steering box is an early style steering box and does not swing the pitman under the frame like a 78/9 steering box would rather it swings parallel to the driver side frame rail The sector shaft protrudes from the side of the frame and not straight down.
There is no such thing as a drop pitman arm for a 73 to 77 F250, and every 73 to 77 F250 has manual steering. Some had power assist, but all still had a manual box.
Now, the 76 truck had a longer pitman arm, but this is still a problem, and the OP should be considering a steering box upgrade, and,,,,,,,,,,,,you got it fellas,,,,,,,,crossover steering.
Ditch that junk push pull system, It was a poor design from the beginning, and a front spring with more arch is only making matters worse.
Throwing time and money at the original 30 year design is a waste of effort, time and money.
 
  #25  
Old 08-03-2009, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
Unfortunately dkoss cant use a drop pitman arm since his steering box is an early style steering box and does not swing the pitman under the frame like a 78/9 steering box would rather it swings parallel to the driver side frame rail The sector shaft protrudes from the side of the frame and not straight down.
There is no such thing as a drop pitman arm for a 73 to 77 F250, and every 73 to 77 F250 has manual steering. Some had power assist, but all still had a manual box.
Now, the 76 truck had a longer pitman arm, but this is still a problem, and the OP should be considering a steering box upgrade, and,,,,,,,,,,,,you got it fellas,,,,,,,,crossover steering.
Ditch that junk push pull system, It was a poor design from the beginning, and a front spring with more arch is only making matters worse.
Throwing time and money at the original 30 year design is a waste of effort, time and money.
i agree 75f350, i was referring to the adj, drop drag link for the '78-'79 f250s. these are available & will work if dkoss is not willing/ready to do the steer box/crossover conversion
 
  #26  
Old 08-03-2009, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by fordrealdrive
i agree 75f350, i was referring to the adj, drop drag link for the '78-'79 f250s. these are available & will work if dkoss is not willing/ready to do the steer box/crossover conversion

Maybe I missed that part. Your are 100% correct, that if the op decides to upgrade steeing boxes then the 78/9 box will require a different pitman arm provided that the op keeps the original style steering system.
Now should the 78/9 box be used for the upgrade crossover steering system then a stock arm can work with the 75 truck. Crossmembers are slightly different that the later trucks and will provide the clearance needed to use this stock arm. SOme slight modifications might be required depending upon the type of end that is used, but all in all, the power steering upgrade and crossover, maybe even just an inverted "T" style steering system will be a far better upgrage, and cost about the same as an aftermarket dropped pitman arm, and adjustable drag link.
Put it this way, since the box has to be changed anyway, the cost is the same no matter what.
Buy an adjustable drag link that will require tie rod ends, and you can spend around 175 bucks and end up with small TRE's.
Or
Make a longer drag link that connects to the pass side of the tie rod for a real nice invterted "T" design and you will spend about the same. Actually of you can weld, you can spend less than the little store bought kit.
By using the stock pitman arm from the 78/9 F250 box, you can save some dough.
Now attach the drag link to the stock tie rod, right where the hydraulic assist ram once was, this will require a machined taper to accept the new TRE, and yo uare done. A crossover design with the same effort and perhaps less money than the little adjustable draglink thing, and the upgraded steering is night and day better than the original design.
The turning becomes effortless, and the wonder on the road is long gone. Bumpsteer is a thing of the past and the old truck drives like a champ. Better than ever before. The crossover upgrade is not so difficult and can be less expensive than folks think. Less effort too.
 
  #27  
Old 08-03-2009, 05:41 PM
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Ya!

Preach it brother!:-x10
 
  #28  
Old 08-03-2009, 05:53 PM
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so if i go for the 78/9 steering box i will also need the 78/79 pitman arm? is there alot of custom modifications that i need to do this upgrade or is it fairly straigh forward? where would the best place be to find a 78/9 box and arm?
 
  #29  
Old 08-03-2009, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dkoss
so if i go for the 78/9 steering box i will also need the 78/79 pitman arm? is there alot of custom modifications that i need to do this upgrade or is it fairly straigh forward? where would the best place be to find a 78/9 box and arm?
i have not done this mod myself, I'm aware of the parts involved & the procedure to be performed. 75f350 can explain this better than i can. i debated w/myself on this mod for along time & I've decided to go from a manual steer to a full hydraulic setup as my trk see's very little street use...sooooo take it away,75f350, the floor is yours
 
  #30  
Old 08-04-2009, 12:16 AM
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you seem to be the go to guy as far as lifts. i got a 79 f-250 stock. could i get away with 2" blocks in the front and back with no drive shaft problems, or any other issues???
 


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