So I got the starter and installed it, I had already installed the ignitor and flamethrower all this on the 58' f100 with a 292. I wrote about all the problems I was having, well here is were I am. With all that done and the timing restored to where it was before everything went terribly wrong it starts up again. The only problem is it is poping and will not idle unless I give it a good amount of gas and have the choke on. The second I go to see what is going on under the hood it dies. Where do I go from here. I know that I need to rebuild the carb but it was drive able just two weeks ago, so that is not the real problem. I would love to have it run long enough to dial in the timing and then I can take the carb off and rebuild it. Any suggestions?

 

It's either spark or fuel in these old engines...you seem to have the spark end figured out so maybe the carb really IS that bad. If you know it needs a rebuild, make that right then see what happens.
I think yours was the Holley 2300 (half a 4160) or whatever so it should be a simple rebuild. Good Luck.

 

went out and tightened down the dizzy, connected the advance and tuned the carb so that it might idle a little higher so that I could dial in the timing and sure enough it wont start again. I think I need to make sure it is at top dead center and that the dizzy is at #1 then I can retard it a little and make sure it is all ready to go. Is there something I am missing?

 

cbass i hear you just asuggestion but chek your firing order and make sure you are using no 1 for your timing lite the popping could be firing order related yours oldies

 

I am sitting here at work and thinking about this, as I will be for the next 48 hrs, and thought would I get these same problems if I had moved the dizzy one tooth too far in either direction? I moved it and then moved it back, if one of these had been a extra tooth would that give me the popping and not starting?

 

It would probably give you the not starting but I don't know about the popping.

 

CBASS if your timing is out 180 degrees for eg. you are using no 6 instead of no 1 for your timing mark you will get a no start problem and popping because your valve timing will be out so set your crank pulley to no 1 or 0 check no 1 cylinder with the spark plug out the piston should be at the top then set your distributor in with the rotor pointing at no 1 this should get you in the area of the engine starting then all you have to do after is set your timing with timing lite at about 10 degrees you should be good to go i hpe this will help yours OLDIES

 

Hi, Not sure what you have done but just for something to say. The number one piston is the front one ( closest to radiator) on the passenger side then it continues 2,3,4 then number 5 is the front one on the drivers side and continues 6,7,8. The firing order is 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2. If I am repeating something you already know sorry, if not then maybe this will help.

Chuck

 

No, I did know that but dont mind getting the basics. Would rather somebody tell me the basics and already know it then to miss something. The thing I alway have to remember is that the dizzy goes counter clockwise. I will keep you all posted, I will just be working on this all weekend. I really want to be driving it by the end of the weekend.
Thanks,
Cbass

 

Cbass, now that you know which cylinder is which you should physically chase each wire from the dizzy, starting at number 1 and making sure that the next wire counterclockwise goes to number 5, then the next one goes to number 4, then 8, then 6, then 3, then 7, and finally 2. That'll let you know if your firing order is correct.

 

Ok, I double checked all of the timing and the dizzy. got it TDC on 1 to make sure the dizzy was set correctly, I made sure the plugs were all right and still wont start. I am thinking that I am not getting spark at all. Like maybe the coil is bad or something. Is there a easy way to test this. I thought that if you remove the wire going from the coil to the dizzy and hold it close to the block and crank it it would spark but I did this and nothing happened. What can i do from here?

 

Start from there & work backwards throught the electrical system. Test it with a GOOD known coil. These old motors only need AIR, SPARK, and FUEL to run.......your missing ONE of those.
If your not getting any fire out of the coil, re-test with a good know coil & try again.
HTH
Ricky

 

I tried the old coil but that didnt seem to work either. That is why I was wondering if there was a way to test the coil.

 

Check out this web page: http://autorepair.about.com/od/troub...l-test-ohm.htm

There are a number of on-the-car, shadetree tests for your ignition coil, but to definitively determine whether your coil is on the way out, the only proper coil test is with a multimeter. Why? Here's the rundown:
Inside an ignition coil are two coils of wire on top of each other. These coils are called windings. One winding is called the primary winding, the other is the secondary. The primary winding gets the juice together to make a spark and the secondary sends it out the door to the distributor. Either one of these windings can go bad and cause your ignition coil to fail.

Sometimes an ignition coil is bad, clearly bad, as in it makes no spark at all. But if a coil is on the way out, but not dead yet, it can make a weak spark that can cause the car to run rough or wrong. By testing an ignition coil with a multimeter while it's disconnected, you'll be using data and numbers to determine the health of the coil rather than your eyeballs and dead reckoning. We'll show you how to test both the primary and secondary ignition coil windings using a multimeter.
The primary winding of your ignition coil is the first to receive voltage from the battery. Find the resistance specifications for your car's primary coil winding in your repair manual. Then using a multimeter, place the leads on the smaller, outside poles if you have a traditional round coil, or on the indicated poles if you have a newer enclosed unit. If the reading is within the range indicated in your manual, your primary winding is ok and you can go on to the secondary test. if it is even a little out of spec, the coil should be replaced. The secondary winding of your ignition coil delivers the spark to the distributor to be sent to the spark plugs. If it's bad, you'll get a weak spark or no spark at all. To test the coil's secondary winding, attach the test probes to the outer 12V pole and the center pole (where the main wire goes to the distributor). Determine the resistance and check to see if it's within the range indicated in your repair manual. If it is, your coil is up to the task. If it's even slightly out of range, your coil should be replaced.

HTH
Ricky<!--/gc-->

<!--/gc-->

 

I found a test and then say what Ricky posted but her is what I found the posts are right on at .3ohms (it says on it that it is a low resistance .3) but I am not sure what the center resistence is supposed to be. I am getting right around 6000 ohms (I thought that coils were like 11,000 or more) is this right for the new flamethrowers? I already sent a email to pertronix but was hoping to get this done this weekend and they wont answer till monday. I am definatly not getting spark at this point.