If you know there is no spark AND want it taken care of this weekend, head to NAPA or some other parts store and get a new coil, points, condenser, and cap. That's probably around $40 or so.

(If you are about to say that you don't want to do that because you already have a Pertronix Ignitor in there, then I'd bet just about anything that the Ignitor is bad. Mine went after about 3 months in my 292. I switched back to points and never looked back. I just hope you saved your receipt.)

 

Hi there,

I thought I 'd jump in here and add 3 cents (two plus inflation).

First, if you just installed a Flame Thrower SOLID CORE (not oil insulated) coil, I will Gaurantee you 99% it is good.

Also, if your motor was running and it is popping it can only be one of three problems - timing is off or your dizzy is set out 180 degrees or timing chain is off.

So if you want to start at the begining, it's a very good place to start...when you spell you begin with A...B...C...When you sing you begin with Doh Ray Me ...doh Ray Me

(humor me here guys I always wanted to be a famous singer)

The previous posts are all correct. When you want you motor to run, you need fuel/air mixture; compression; and, Spark....all introduced to the cylinder at the correct times - an important caviat.

If your engine was running and it was popping, the coil was working, the carb was working, the spark was working. The problem was the whole evolution was occuring while the second set of valves was partly open in the cylinder - thus a 180 out thing or timing grossly retarded or advanced - you can't tell at idle.

First check that your #1 cylinder is at firing TDC when it's position on the distributor is at #1 be sure it is firing just after the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. If that is ok them it's a timing or advance issue.

You are testing ohms here to 1/10 of an ohm and this and that to 1/1000th of a blub...fooey - forget that.

Just get back to fundamentals:

Make sure your distibutor is set to fire #1 on the compression strkoe of #1 at TDC, then set your timing properly using a vacuum gauge (I'll leave the link for that)

During the timing procedure you will also use the vacuum guage to set the correct idle mixture.

Don't get rattled and don't go into deep levels of analysis. Your problem here is one of the fundamentals, and with correct firing/timing, correct idle mixture and correct vacuum advance, it will run fine.

PM Ross - Albuq F1 and ask him to join in here. Dispite his modesty he is an expert at tune up.

Here's the vacuum guage tune up link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...e-trouble.html

 

CBASS did you check if you have ignition voltage at the coil you have two connectors on the coil with the key in the running position check with atest lite to see if you have battery voltage just a quick test hope this helps OLDIES

 

Ps ijust read julies response to your situation and as my first reply i said exactly what julie said i agree with her keep it simple ihave been there myself many times good luck yours oldies

 

Also check to see that the plug from the dizzy didn't come unhooked. Its about 6 inches away from the dizzy in the wire loom. My 65 cobra did this once. My plug was loose. (Just throwing things out there to see what sticks now.) Double check all your grounds too. I chased down an ignition problem for two weeks & found it to be a ground on the MDS box was loose causing me all my headaches.

 

Cant find my test light but set the multimeter to voltage and tried that and got nothing at all. I thought that I would be able to see something with this. If this is the case, that the multi is showing no voltage at the posts which direction do I go? or do I need to use a test light (electric is not my thing, I know Julie it is not that hard)?

 

I must chime in here. If you were out by 180° on the timing, it would not run. It will, however, blow 2 feet of flames back through the carburetor because the spark would happen when the intake is opening instead of being closed at the top of the compression stroke and would open a fuel charged path into the intake.

If it ran and popped then you were not far off with the timing. I don't think it's a fuel issue at this point.

Here's how I learned to check non-running motors I was unsure of (especially when the distributor has been removed a few times):

You need to carefully make sure number one cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. The easiest way to be sure of this is to remove the valve cover on the side where number one cylinder is (with a 292 it's only 2 nuts and it's off) and watch the valves as you turn the engine over by hand (easy to do with the plugs out). If you aren't sure of which valve is intake or exhaust look at what it lines up with. Intakes line up with the intake manifold runner, exhaust lines up with the exhaust manifold. When the intake valve closes you will be close to BDC so continue to turn the motor by hand until the timing marks reach TDC. That will put you close.

Then you can adjust the timing marks by hand turning the motor backwards until you are close to where you need to be (like 8° BTDC or whatever) and then look at the distributor. Is the rotor pointing at the number one position? If not, you have the motor static timed and can adjust the distributor until it points to number one. That should get you close enough to at least start.

Then follow Julie's recommendation to time it with the vacuum gauge if you have one. If not, use a timing light.

Good luck.

 

CBASS if you used a multi meter to check for voltage and none was found you dont need atest lite find out which terminal on the coil is for battery or ignition voltage then run a jumper wire from the battery or another ignition supply then see if the engine runs if it does you have an open circuit from your ignition to your coil i hope this helps ps. dont leave jumper wire on continuosly just for test yours OLDIES

 

Ran the jumper cable and it was getting power (turned the dash lights on without the key turned on). But still would not start, took the jumper cable off and tested each post connecting the + of the multimeter to it and the - of the multi to the - battery post and was getting a solid 11-12 so both sides are getting power. So were to next? This would be fun if I didnt really want it to work. I tested the spark wire from the coil to the dizzy and it is fine so how do I know if the coil is getting a signal to send a spark to the dizzy and then if it gets the signal if it actually is sending it?

 

All problems seemed to point to the ignitor so I took it out and now it sounds like it wants to start but wont. Almost sounds like it is bogged down but it isnt. I am going to take a break from it now and go to a show. when I get back I will start back in, I think now I want to know that it is getting spark at the plugs.

 

Ok, just got off the phone with pertronix tech help and they think "it just might be a bad ignitor", you think.:crazy: So I am going to just exchange it through the company I bought it with. Will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Keep a spare set of points and the directions to switch back in the glovebox...just in case!

 

And..........she is alive. I got the new ignitor, installed it and was wicked excited to start her up. I make sure I have the timing set, all the wires connected and double checked it all. Go and turn the key and nothing, the battery is died. I connect the charger and go do some house work and come back to a full battery a few hours later and turn the key and it sounds like she wants to start up but just wont, so give her a little gas and she starts, yes. but once I take my foot off the pedal she dies, so I go and adjust the dizzy timing and start her up again and sure enough she runs and pretty strong. So I go through and tune all of the timing and idle using the vacuum and tach, thanks again Julie. What I do know after this is that I have to work on the carb because the float is definatly off because I can hear it sucking gas when I rev is fast. I guess this will be my next project but I think I have to drive her for a day or two before I do that. I know that I have to go get lumber for a house project or my wife might try to sell the truck next time I go to work.
Thanks to all for all of the help.
Cbass