Welding to the pumpkin?
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Welding to the pumpkin?
Well I have the front axle out from under my pickup again, and I was thinking about making an axle truss of sorts for it. But what is the pumpkin made of? Nodular iron? If its not safe to weld to, I'm just going to leave it alone. Also I never tried to search because its not that easy to do from this blackberry, and it takes forever.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: wyoming
Not sure what your doing exactly but. When I did my link suspension I welded to tubes and where the leafspring pad is on pumpkin I drilled and tapped and bolted a plate to pad then welded to pad as needed for upper links. Their is room to do bolts 1/2". Has worked well for my application. Something to consider.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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When I weld up my axles, I use methods for "Nodular Iron". This is a pre and post heat method. I have also used stainless filler material.
Thishas been done in both MIG and Arc applications. Have even used the TIG a couple of times. Heat control is the critical deal here. Keep it warm and dont let it cool too rapidly.
Thishas been done in both MIG and Arc applications. Have even used the TIG a couple of times. Heat control is the critical deal here. Keep it warm and dont let it cool too rapidly.
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: North Dakota
Originally Posted by wyoming4x4
Not sure what your doing exactly
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: North Dakota
I'd like to see more pics, but yes, that's what I want to prevent. I don't see how I can add any strength to the drivers side. The radius arm "C"s are on the tube and the pumpkin. I'll have to post up some pics later. But I have broke little Dana axles in half before. Just don't want to do it to my D60.
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Post Fiend
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Ill have to see if I can dig up some drawings. Many guys lazer cut a plate typically 1/2" that acts as a diff cover and truss. This extends to both sides in "single sheer" fashion to help with additional support. This is quite a bit of work.
Usually this is easier with link style suspensions.
Usually this is easier with link style suspensions.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
I was going to use some square tube to go from the radius arm "C" to the top of the diff, than "box" it in with some flat plate. Also do the same to the bottom. Than run som flat over the top of the diff and down the other side. I'll draw something up later today to show what I'm tryin to explain.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
well there is a crappy drawing i did quick in paint to give you a better idea of what i want to do. i want to weld it to the pumpin, and not mod the diff cover.. that one red line over the top of the diff is where i would run plate over the top to provide more welding area..
i had a chunk of the square tube setting on top of the axle to give me a better pic in my head of what i need to do...
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Leitchfield, ky
What did you end up using to weld to the pumpkin?
I would think that a truss on top would be enough, but what I call extreme might be gravy to some of you guys.
I've thought about drilling and tapping the diff housing for a bolt on truss and stacking the other end under the leaf spring pack welded to some 1/2" plate.
I would think that a truss on top would be enough, but what I call extreme might be gravy to some of you guys.
I've thought about drilling and tapping the diff housing for a bolt on truss and stacking the other end under the leaf spring pack welded to some 1/2" plate.
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: North Dakota
ya know i dont even know what i used. i went to the welding shop and told them what i was doing and they gave me a roll of wire for the mig.. anywas here is what it looks like..
