Lift pump replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2009
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Lift pump replacement
I have a 88 E-350 with a 7.3 diesel. The lift pump started leaking so I replaced it. It started for a few seconds apparently from the fuel in the filter but now it will not start. I have tried for several minutes, 30 seconds at a time while recharging the batteries. I pulled the line and it seems to be pumping fuel, although not much at cranking speeds. Could air be trapped causing the fuel not to get through? Its supposed to have a petcock on the fuel filter but I'm have a hard time finding it. Does the whole filter spin off? Do you take the bottom off first? I was going to try to fill the filter with fuel and see if that helped. Any other ideas?
Dean
Dean
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Puget Sound in WA. State
The air bleeder is on the top right side, it looks just like the tip used to fill your tires. It can take minutes of cranking to get the air out. It helps to have someone hold in the air valve while you crank. If it doesn't start after many minutes of cranking then loosen a few injector lines where they go into the injectors and see if gas is leaking out as you crank. I don't think you have cranked enough after replacing the pump to get all the air out. Good Luck Brad
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Freshman User
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I pulled the filter and it was about 2/3 full. I'll see if I can find the bleeder. I'm waiting for the batteries to re-charge. Hope this is not too hard on the starter. They are rather expensive. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm supposed to help someone move tomorrow.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
deaninkc,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Did the lift pump you installed have an almost straight arm or one with a 90 degree bend in it?
The pump with an almost straight arm should have had directions, that must be followed or the pump will be damaged.
Directions went like, use an inspection mirror and rotate the engine till you see the low spot on the pump drive cam before installing.
If it did and you followed them, then refill the filter with fuel or diesel kleen and start the engine.
Very important.
Crank the engine for 20 seconds max, then a minimum of two minutes cool down time before you crank the starter again.
Following that will save your starter for another day.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Did the lift pump you installed have an almost straight arm or one with a 90 degree bend in it?
The pump with an almost straight arm should have had directions, that must be followed or the pump will be damaged.
Directions went like, use an inspection mirror and rotate the engine till you see the low spot on the pump drive cam before installing.
If it did and you followed them, then refill the filter with fuel or diesel kleen and start the engine.
Very important.
Crank the engine for 20 seconds max, then a minimum of two minutes cool down time before you crank the starter again.
Following that will save your starter for another day.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2009
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I looked at the one I took out and its got the 90 bend. It had only basic instructions with it. Despite using 30 seconds on and 2 minutes off my starter fried. Got at new one, which was a bit smaller and easier to put one and now it spins a lot faster than it did but still does not start. I dropped the fuel filter and it was close to full of fuel. I opened the petcock at the top of the filter and nothing comes out when I crank it. I assume it only takes a turn or so to open it.I'm at a loss at this point. I'm open to suggestions. I assume that it would not be filling the filter if the new pump was bad or installed incorrectly. Can the lift pump be replaced with an electric one? Seems like that would solve lots of problems.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Cranking 30 seconds is to long, 20 seconds max.
Did the one you installed look like the one you removed?
Opened petcock at the top?
I am not well versed on the E series layout, but there should not be a petcock on top of the fuel filter.
There should be a Schrader valve, looks like a tire valve that can be depressed to bleed air while cranking the engine over.
If you had an empty filter when you started cranking the engine, evidently the lift pump is working.
However an empty filter contains a lot of air and will take a lot of cranking to replace with fuel before the engine can fire.
Yes, the lift pump can be replaced with an electric pump.
5 PSI and 30 gallons per hour.
Did the one you installed look like the one you removed?
Opened petcock at the top?
I am not well versed on the E series layout, but there should not be a petcock on top of the fuel filter.
There should be a Schrader valve, looks like a tire valve that can be depressed to bleed air while cranking the engine over.
If you had an empty filter when you started cranking the engine, evidently the lift pump is working.
However an empty filter contains a lot of air and will take a lot of cranking to replace with fuel before the engine can fire.
Yes, the lift pump can be replaced with an electric pump.
5 PSI and 30 gallons per hour.
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Freshman User
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I'll look at the valve again. I could not see anything to depress, so I assumed it was like a brake bleeder valve and you had to loosen it to open it. A bit of a problem since I don't have any help.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
It should have a cap on the bleeder, cap should look like a tire valve cap.
And under the cap, you will see what looks like a tire valve, depress the core stem to bleed air.
Even after you have fuel coming out of the filter, you will still need to work the air through the IP and fuel lines on the engine.
Loosening an injector line or two will help bleed that air out.
How hard it is to bleed the injection system is the big reason running a diesel out of fuel is not a good idea.
Frustrating for the owner, and hard on the starter and batteries.
Unfortunately I do not have a good picture of the filter header in my gallery.
And under the cap, you will see what looks like a tire valve, depress the core stem to bleed air.
Even after you have fuel coming out of the filter, you will still need to work the air through the IP and fuel lines on the engine.
Loosening an injector line or two will help bleed that air out.
How hard it is to bleed the injection system is the big reason running a diesel out of fuel is not a good idea.
Frustrating for the owner, and hard on the starter and batteries.
Unfortunately I do not have a good picture of the filter header in my gallery.
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Brett Foote
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From: Sorrento BC, Canada
All I do is put a screwdriver over the two connections on the solenoid on the fender well to turn the engine, then I push the schraeder valve until I see fuel coming out. I had even pulled the injection pump off the truck with the lines attached, put it back on, and this method worked without cracking injection lines.
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You probably just can't see it I have two E series ambulances in the yard, we purchased them and was going to get a transport business started but couldn't get enough insurance to cover as per state law. But while negotiating I serviced them and to tell you dave the fuel filter is a B*** to get to on these. its the same housing as other 7.3s but it is on the driver side. Either way whether its from the front under the hood or trying through the dog house entry it is very difficult to reach. If i remember correctly the valve should be either on the back side of the housing (looking from under the hood) or on the driver side of the housing). If you haven't found it or got it fired up by tomorrow afternoon I'll get a pic of it and post it for you.
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Seems I was wrong, the air bleed valve on the 90 E350 ambulance I have in the yard faces the front ot the engine. Here is a picture of my fuel filter housing and filter, its orientation is different, but it will show you what the valve looks like. Again Dave here is another pic you can add to your collection for future references.
First a picture of the filter location on the 90 model E350 7.3
Here is the pic of the air bleed.
First a picture of the filter location on the 90 model E350 7.3
Here is the pic of the air bleed.
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I'm back on this after getting other projects out of the way. Finally got someone to help me. I tried using a remote switch on the starter and it got very hot and the engine would barely crank when using it. When pushing in the valve and cranking I finally got a small amount of fuel coming out. Should it be squirting out a cranking speed or just a trickle? I still will not start. Any more ideas? Would a small squirt if starting fluid help? I know you are only supposed to use a very small amount bur maybe it would spin it fast enough to ge the fuel pressure up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Lift pump should deliver around 6 PSI when cranking the engine.
If you remove the schrader valve and slide a hose over the valve stem then into a catch can, 10 seconds cranking should produce a minimum of 1/3 pint in your catch can.
There are two relays on the IDI starter system.
You have to use the remote switch on the first relay.
360 amps to crank the starter is going to toast remote starter switches.
If you remove the schrader valve and slide a hose over the valve stem then into a catch can, 10 seconds cranking should produce a minimum of 1/3 pint in your catch can.
There are two relays on the IDI starter system.
You have to use the remote switch on the first relay.
360 amps to crank the starter is going to toast remote starter switches.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
I trust you bought a starter from O'reillys, AUtozone, or Advance Auto with the LIFETIME Warranty, right. THats worth its weight in gold. I would keep filling the filter up and trying it. As for the starting fluid, I use it sometimes, first make sure your glow plugs are off and have been off for a while, then while the engine is cranking over spray as fast as you can push the spray can and let off as fast as possible, just a hair, sometimes that may get it going.