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Lift pump replacement

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #16  
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dyoungen
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Instead of using starter fluid / ether, get some highly flamable brake cleaner. I had trouble getting my 1987 F250 started after changing the IP. The mechanic I talked to locally said that instead of using ether which will kill the glow plugs, use the highly flamible brake cleaner. Also another way to get it started is to remove the air cleaner and put a rag with some gas on the on top of the air intake. Both ways worked for me at different times. With the brake cleaner you don't have to worry about messing up the glow plugs and you don't have to disconnect the glow plugs.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #17  
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Success! Thanks for all the advice. I guess all it took was a little patience. After a couple of days of going through the 20 seconds on 2 minutes off routine until the battery ran down, then re-charge the battery, it fired up. Next time I think I'll put and electric fuel pump on it. I did pay the extra $20 and get a lifetime warranty on the starter.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #18  
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Most places include the lifetime warranty now, all my starters are under lifetime warranty.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 07:09 AM
  #19  
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If You bleed the air properly, it only takes about 2-3 20 second cycles.

Next time find the Starter Solenoid, attach your remote switch, TURN THE KEY TO ON (gotta have the IP Shut Off Solenoid activated) then crank it over with the shrader valve open. You'll probably get fire in the first couple of cycles.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #20  
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And now the rest of the story.... After I got it started it would not restart. I cranked and cranked, bled and got it to fire but again it ran about 20 seconds and quit. Frustrated and not needing to use my van I let it set for a couple of weeks. Thinking about it I decided that there must be something wrong with the new fuel pump. Went to the auto parts store and got another fuel pump. This one had a straight arm rather than the 90 degree one. The new one was a PITA to put it. I had a hard time getting the bolts to line up and get started but I finally got it installed. The first thing I noticed when I turned it over and pushed in the bleed valve fuel came gushing out, not a trickle like before. It then fired up immediately on the second 20 sec spin. The moral of the store is don't assume something it not broken even if its new. Thanks to every one that helped.

Dean
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #21  
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I have seen so many bad parts in new boxes right off the shelf it is not funny.

No quality control with many of the off shore parts manufacturers.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #22  
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Hello! my rig is running for about a mile the stalling after waiting 15 minutes it restarts and the pattern repeats. I was told to change the lift pump. Where should I look to find the lift pump on a 1987 ford f250 with a 6.9. I thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #23  
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It is posible that the pump was put in wrong there was a post some were about the pump arms being different I will look in my book wen I get home .
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #24  
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Disregard what I said then . Its good all is well
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #25  
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Factory pump is on the passenger side front of the engine. The best thing to do is get under the truck because the fuel pump is hidden under the vacuum pump and the alternator. I replaced my factory pump with an electric pump. No more problems when changing the fuel filter.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #26  
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So, if I get the pump with a 90 degree bend in the arm, I don't have to worry about the camshaft position?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 12:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dyoungen
Factory pump is on the passenger side front of the engine. The best thing to do is get under the truck because the fuel pump is hidden under the vacuum pump and the alternator. I replaced my factory pump with an electric pump. No more problems when changing the fuel filter.
There's an ELECTRIC fuel pump available for the '88 7.3? Is there one for the F-250 model with the driver side lift pump?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 12:52 AM
  #28  
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Could someone please post a pic of the lift pump I'm needing? Also, who sells good ones? Please post links.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 08:45 AM
  #29  
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None of the 7.3's had a driver's side lift pump, they are on the passenger side. The only driver's side fuel item at all was a firewall mounted water separator, which is often bypassed (or needs to be) in these trucks because they leak air into the fuel system.

As far as switching to electric, there's lots of threads on here with that information already.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #30  
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If nothing else buy a cheap electric pump and use it with a fuel can to fill the system adn start the truck. Once everything is bled you can hook the manual pump back up.
 
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