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im doing my up pipes right now,and i need it done tonight.my question is,i used the chevy donuts,and i have like a 1/2 in gap between the slip joints and all the bolts are tight.should it be this way?im afraid of snapping a bolt off.also will i have to loosin the up pipes to put my turbo in?
im doing my up pipes right now,and i need it done tonight.my question is,i used the chevy donuts,and i have like a 1/2 in gap between the slip joints and all the bolts are tight.should it be this way?im afraid of snapping a bolt off.also will i have to loosin the up pipes to put my turbo in?
Can't help you with the gap but you should connect the up pipes to the back of turbo before you tighten them down all the way.
damit i have them tightend down all the way..can i get away with just loosening the up pipes at the manifolds?because i dont want to loosen them at the y,it took me about 2hrs to get it together. up there
damit i have them tightend down all the way..can i get away with just loosening the up pipes at the manifolds?because i dont want to loosen them at the y,it took me about 2hrs to get it together. up there
i bought the orings for the pedistall to the block,and turbo to pedistall.but im only going to replace the turbo ones because i didnt take the pedistall off.Should i be ok with that?Also i gonna try to gets pics of my spyder and intercooler pipes,cuz they look great..i primed them with high temp primer then painted them with high temp paint in ford blue.
damit i have them tightend down all the way..can i get away with just loosening the up pipes at the manifolds?because i dont want to loosen them at the y,it took me about 2hrs to get it together. up there
I did it that way but I don't recommend it but you can do it.
On the ones I did, there was only about 1/8" gap left between the beveled flanges. The anti seize allows the donut to slip and "seat in" better. The bolts should be tight enough that the pipe won't turn inside the donut. They are thicker and won't allow the flanges to touch when crushed. The gap will also be determined by the amount of wear on the pipes. The deeper the groove, the more crush needed and the smaller the gap.
I dont know about the gap either,I put the bellowed uppipes on mine,as for the o-rings,I would replace all four while youre in there that deep.Just my .02 worth
I dont know about the gap either,I put the bellowed uppipes on mine,as for the o-rings,I would replace all four while youre in there that deep.Just my .02 worth
On the ones I did, there was only about 1/8" gap left between the beveled flanges. The anti seize allows the donut to slip and "seat in" better. The bolts should be tight enough that the pipe won't turn inside the donut. They are thicker and won't allow the flanges to touch when crushed. The gap will also be determined by the amount of wear on the pipes. The deeper the groove, the more crush needed and the smaller the gap.
well i finally got her all done this morning.that had to be the most frustrating waste of time ever...i will never ever do it again enless im putting the bellowd up pipes in it.my driver side up pipe is still leaking a little bit,and i dont no about the passenger side because i cant get my hand back there.But i would assume it is leaking because i could spin the pipe while hooking it up at the manifold.but at least i cant hear it leaking any more wich is good.that really sucked trying to do by my self,the next time i do it im gonna have some help.i just hope my turbo orings dont leak i did every thing i was suposed to do on that end,except do the pedistall orings.is there any fte members up my way that would help me when i do my up pipes again?im probly gonna do them within a month or 2.