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All right 95. These guys werent giving me their oppinion on a specific model. They were giving me it on a 99 ford. And also I think its still wierd that 6637 comes up for no reason
The guy is curious about the mods he already has on post 2-4 its all about 6637, for no reason......It just seems sponsored. And no if K and N had a problem with this filter I know they would make it right. All because of all of the business we do with them.
Again can we just lock this thread, because im tired of oppinions, give me the facts.
And I can make a bar graph just like that one that is being posted on here, on my computer, and it could say wraping dog crap on your filter would help flow.So unless you have a source like automobile magazine, or diesel power, or somthing like that, it means nothing.
All right snowbird why arent you a fan of K and N? I want the real reason is it personal experience( like you actually had a problem, and give specifics) or is it just from trash talk??
And david A typical sprintcar engine gets rebuilt ever 3-5 shows, So 3-5 weeks, not years. and
I would suggest that you do what you wish. If you want something other than the opinions and suggestions given on this forum please go elsewhere. If you want facts go find your own. If you want to just argue your in the wrong place. Simply unsubscribe from this thread if you are no longer interested and it will fade away into the archives where it certainly belongs.
I agree I will do what I want and I am going to stay on this forum, I am not arguing just pointing out some stuff, and It will go into archives if it
GETS LOCKED
Im tired of people saying youre wrong do this and these are the facts, Did they go to the actual companies on this no, Even if they got info from somewhere legit, not just made up crap.
So I have been running this K and N for 2 weeks now, And no dirt sucdk by, and my impellars arent dirty, I will still check it though.
Major, It would seem that your stubbornness comes from not wanting to dis your dad's record of using K&Ns for so long. Everybody here is just trying to prevent you from trashing your stuff by doing something stupid. You have seen evidence here that using a K&N on a turbo diesel is a bad idea. You can trust the folks on this board. They know more than most Ford mechanics. I run the 6637 also and it is the best filter to use on the 7.3. We don't say that to advertise. We say it because it's true. You can go to any gearhead board in the world and you'll get opinions on what parts are best to use. Some may have different opinions on certain things but when it's unanimous like it is here, you might want to consider it as gospel. If you change your mind and switch to the 6637 all you have to tell your dad is that this is a different application than what he used his K&Ns on and they are not the best choice. Good luck and I hope using your K&N does not damage your stuff.
You have seen evidence here that using a K&N on a turbo diesel is a bad idea.
I'll expand on that thought by saying that the K&N is bad idea on any
turbo/super charged engines, not just diesels, for the following reason:
Very small amounts of dirt passing through a filter on a normally aspirated,
speed density style engines shouldn't be big deal because the only thing the
dirt comes into contact with is the intake plenum, or maybe even the back
side of the intake valve. The dirt is then burned up though the combustion
process with no damage done.....in the short term. The jury is still out on
the long term damage.
IMO, The above doesn't apply to Mass Air type engines (diesel or gas) due to the MAF being
the one of first things the dirt encounters. Also, oiled, cotton gauze filters (K&N)
have a tendency to allow the MAF to hold onto the dirt particles (sticky oil) resulting in
a mis-tuned engine or complete failure of the MAF.
For the same reason as a Mass Air type engine, the turbo/super charged
engines, the impellers of the chargers are the first ting the dirt particles ram
into.... causing the damage we have all grown to hate.
I agree I will do what I want and I am going to stay on this forum, I am not arguing just pointing out some stuff, and It will go into archives if it
GETS LOCKED
Im tired of people saying youre wrong do this and these are the facts, Did they go to the actual companies on this no, Even if they got info from somewhere legit, not just made up crap.
So I have been running this K and N for 2 weeks now, And no dirt sucdk by, and my impellars arent dirty, I will still check it though.
PLEASE LOCK THIS THREAD.
Not only will I NOT run a K and N on my diesel, but the very very very good engine builder that built my racecar engine told me NOT to run a junK and N air cleaner because they are "engine killers" as he called them. He even had proof, showed me engine bearings from a motor with a K and N verses a motor with a paper air cleaner. What a difference there was with the paper element. So as my own personal opinion I will never run a junK and N but its your truck so run what you want to run on it GOOD LUCK......
In the pits of the Knoxville Nationals this month. 100% of the cars ran K and N. Now these are 45 to 50 thousand dollar engines. And the turn 9000 to 9500 rpm all race unless there is a yellow of course.
But I currently am running a cone K and N on my 7.3.
And like I said earlier, in post 54 I can also make a bar and a line graph, I can also soak one impellar in oil and dirt and buy a new one for beore and after.
But if I have any problems I will post an appology to all of you.
In the pits of the Knoxville Nationals this month. 100% of the cars ran K and N. Now these are 45 to 50 thousand dollar engines. And the turn 9000 to 9500 rpm all race unless there is a yellow of course.
But I currently am running a cone K and N on my 7.3.
And like I said earlier, in post 54 I can also make a bar and a line graph, I can also soak one impellar in oil and dirt and buy a new one for beore and after.
But if I have any problems I will post an appology to all of you.
Dude you come onto the site, a site with hundreds if not thousands of experienced owners and ask for advice/opinions, then you proceed to slam the information you are given, and in essence those that provided you that information. That information was not provided to you for their own gain, but rather to benefit you.
Just so you know, THAT'S RUDE! If you don't like the information given to you that YOU asked for, then do as YOU PLEASE, but please refrain from berating those that are only trying to help.
This is for the benefit of all , in order to cooperate and help one another, not to tear each other down...
In the pits of the Knoxville Nationals this month. 100% of the cars ran K and N. Now these are 45 to 50 thousand dollar engines. And the turn 9000 to 9500 rpm all race unless there is a yellow of course.
But I currently am running a cone K and N on my 7.3.
And like I said earlier, in post 54 I can also make a bar and a line graph, I can also soak one impellar in oil and dirt and buy a new one for beore and after.
But if I have any problems I will post an appology to all of you.
perhaps you should look at the pics a little closer the "oily" impeller has leading edge damage! Having spent most of my life dealing with turbine engines "which run centrifugal compressor (same design as our turbo impellers ) leading edge damage is not a good thing. for an example if that "oily impeller" were the compressor on an Allison Rolls Royce 250 C47 with that minor damage you would be pulling the engine and sending it in for a compressor change, a mere $30,000.00 but I know this is a turbo for a ford and not a helicopter engine and not held to the same standards, but if my turbo looked like that or if I knew many people with the same problem I would not run the filter known to cause it!
as for your race car engines, how many of them have 300,000 or 400,000 or even 750,000 miles on them with out any major maintenance? a little dirt getting by all the time for a few hundred thousand miles is a lot of dirt
In the pits of the Knoxville Nationals this month. 100% of the cars ran K and N. Now these are 45 to 50 thousand dollar engines. And the turn 9000 to 9500 rpm all race unless there is a yellow of course.
But I currently am running a cone K and N on my 7.3.
And like I said earlier, in post 54 I can also make a bar and a line graph, I can also soak one impellar in oil and dirt and buy a new one for beore and after.
But if I have any problems I will post an appology to all of you.
what is the dust level on that track in Knoxville? is there cars all day long coming out of dirt parking lots or dirt roads bringing dirt on to the track? how many miles do those cars get on dirt roads? I have no doubt that they run k&n filters, they probably have a spare or 2 so they have a fresh serviced on for each race, so what do they drive 500 miles on each filter change? that is about 2 or 3 days for me! a 6637 is about 1/4 to 1/3 the price of my shop rate so unless I can clean and service a k&n 15 minutes I have lost money, not counting the cost of the cleaner and oil. do I sell 6637 filters? yes I do to my customers. I also tell them they can just go to napa or any fleet store and buy them, I even tell them to buy them at fleet filters. com.
I don't think any one here is trying to force you to use one, heck I wish more people wouldn't take care of their trucks so I can work on them.
Knoxville is a dirt track......So there is dirt there all of the time. And its always dusty, like you need to wear glasses on the top row of the stands to keep dirt out of your eyes.
And the engines only run 3-4 weeks before being torn down to the bare block and rebuilt. Alchol is not a very good lubricant so the heat gets to these engines.
Knoxville is a dirt track......So there is dirt there all of the time. And its always dusty, like you need to wear glasses on the top row of the stands to keep dirt out of your eyes.
And the engines only run 3-4 weeks before being torn down to the bare block and rebuilt. Alchol is not a very good lubricant so the heat gets to these engines.
HAHA helifixer I just read you signature, Thats pretty funny. helicopter is an oil leak surrounded by a rotating mass of metal fatigue.HAHA I have an rc heli and that thig is always broken.
Oh and my little people behind my eyes tell me to tell you hello back.
This filter also flows 425cfm vs. the stock 320 cfm wix filter 46417
I can not even find a CFM value for any of the cone filters on the K&N filter website, ARE THEY TRYING TO HIDE SOMETHING, nore do I know what size your running to compare.
Also read this:
The STOCK filter efficiency started at 93.4% at 0 loading and increased to 99.2% efficiency as the loading increased to a max tested of 38.8 gm/sq ft of dust.
The K&N filter efficiency started at 85.2% at 0 loading and increased to 98.1% at the max tested loading of 41.38 gm/sq ft.
In the chart above it’s important to note the different test durations for each filter. The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction.
In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.
I will add to this comment, even though the K&N only accumalted 221 grams it still reached the end of the test likly due to fewwer pleats in the filter itslef in comparrisson to the other filters. So it held less dirt and plugged up faster when the filter could not flow no more, oh, don't forget the 7 grams of dirt that passed the filter.
These are your FACTS, 3rd party facts with nothing to gain from nobody and not bias like K&N's facts. I'll say again 3RD PARTY TESTS with nothing to gain.
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