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need some experienced help with the VSS problem.

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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #1  
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Smile need some experienced help with the VSS problem.

My speedometer quit last year some time. I put a new sensor on top the rear punkin, but that didnt fix the problem right away. The Speedometer needle swayed back and forth and the Cruise control would really race to catch up, but then immediatly drop off to idle....repeat repeat.

I quit with the CC.
Now the Speedometer has quit again. The status shows a VSS failure.

What do I have a problem with here?
Is there something killing my VSS sensor?
Do I have a broken wire?

Is there a trouble shooting proceedure for this thing?

I guess I could put my FLuke meter on AC and spin the differential over to check the sensor, but what about the size and shape of the input wave?
Does anybody know?

I really like and enjoy my Cruise control. I'd be really really happy if someone could help me out here.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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The sensor you speak of is for the ABS system. You are after the sensor on the left rear side of the transmission tail shaft, or 4x4 on the transfer case tailshaft. I did read a tech note that some systems do use that ABS sensor instead so see what you can find.

The problem with your fluke is that you won't be able to find an intermittent glitch, like a graphing meter would, but you can try this.
To test the ABS sensor- at 25 mph AC volts should equal about 4.0volts AC with a steady increase with vehicle speed. at 35 mph it should read 5.3voltsAC.
Frequency = 350Hz at 15mph should increase with speed 25mph= 540Hz
Resistance(with connector removed) should be 1Kohm- 2Kohm
You need a graphing scope to actually watch the wave, however as speed increases so does AC voltage and frequency.


Now, if your vehicle uses the VSS located on the transmission/transfer case you use this
at 15mph AC volts should equal 1.5vAC with a steady increase with speed. 25mph= 2.5vAC.
Frequency = 15mph= 35Hz. 25mph= 55Hz.
Resistance( on transmission). at 68 degrees F resistance should be 190ohms to 250ohms


Does this help? : )
 
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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I thought 97's are cable speedo
 
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 08:34 PM
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I'll have to look.
In my E.T. courses in the 70's we didn't use a 'Graphing meter', in fact your the first time I ever heard of it. Sounds great though.

I dont know how I could run a test like that. All four up on blocks and my grandaughter up in the cab?

I'll check that 4x4 tail shaft sensor tomorrow. I'm beat now. I did get the plug changed and it seems to have fixed the problem. The engine is still shaky at Idle. Maybe I need to change all eight?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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The rough idle could be from the IAC [Idle air controller] being dirty or going bad.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Holy cow! I just had all that stuff off there today when I cleaned the EGR Valve and changed out the #4 Plug.
I wonder if I left a 'self inflicted wound' in there somewhere?
Where is that IAC Valve located? On the Throttle body somewhere eh?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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On the throttlebody, here is a pic:

 
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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Oh great. Yeah I recognize that leaf too. Whatever kind of tree that is, we have a swing for the kids in it.
It sheds all year round.

Thanks a bunch. I'll go look for my Mechanics tracks....
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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http://www.snapondiag.com/vp This is an example of a graphing meter. Pricey, but well worth the money if you work on many cars. Lucky me, I found one on craigslist for $600. I bought a amp probe for it and a secondary ignition adapter. All I need yet is the pressure transducer : )
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 02:55 PM
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Pinto, that looks like a Fancy Laptop. One of those tough guys that'll take a dropping and keep on talking.
I had to laugh when I saw it though.
Way back in the 50's a rep from Sun came to my dad and showed him a Distributor machine. Dad told him to get out; "the day I need a @%#$# Computer to work on a car is the day I'll quit!"
And that was just a distributor analyzer. I'd plunk a Distributor down in it and it'd show the various places the point firing would take place.
I was amazed that it smoked out a worn lobe on the distributor cam. I was just a kid, and never would have figured out why that one cylinder didnt fire like the rest of them without that Sun Tach machine.
Dad was unimpressed though. It went back the next week.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 03:05 PM
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It is a fancy laptop haha, but if you ever get to try one, you will understand pretty quick how useful it is. I can amp ramp a fuel pump and look at the commutators on a graphing display : ). Same with alternator diodes and so much more!
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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For a young guy like you, dug in deep into the new stuff, that 'thing' is an absolute necessity. Like a Scope was for me in the old tube days.

I doubt if I could under stand your toy, let alone all the programs you need for the different cars n' trucks.

Will that thing help you find fish?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by torkum
The rough idle could be from the IAC [Idle air controller] being dirty or going bad.
Torkum, you win the sixty soggy seegar butts!
I cleaned the IAC today and the idle smoothed right out.
I still have the miss though.
I'll have some more money soon and will change all the plugs.
I think the oil on the wires is a big part of the problem.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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clean the back of the throttle valve as well. Might as well go all the way and do a top end carbon clean.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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Smile

OK, gimmie some more hints!
I can do anything that don't take money right now.

What all do I take off to clean?
Do I have a Throttle position sensor?

On my miss, (I have to put this up where I posted on the #4 plug too) I discovered the super oily plug wires. One of the guys on this forum suggested the oily wires might cause the miss.
I put a fine spray end on an old hose, and washed that all down good back there.
The Miss went away for awhile. Its back now though.
 
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