WARNING Overzealous Oil Changes, potential harm
As for the horizontal filter mount. I think if you pour some oil in the filter and then hold it on an angle and rotate it, the oil will soak through to the outer part of the canister and then not drip back so easily. If it drips, just catch it in the drain pan. Of course, this won't work on an Aerostar as the drips go into the starter (3.0L version).
For the record, PM got the tip from Atlas Supply Co., not Allied Signal (well I had the first letters right anyway
).Rich
TallPaul, I'm not going to deny that fuel goes into each cylinder to some extent, but I was always thinking that the amount of fuel at idel could not be much, that the extra fuel in the cylinder would burn off, and that any that got past the rings would burn off once the engine is heated up.
But then your point is a good one - is it counterproductive by 'washing' the cylinder walls clean with gasoline? I don't know. I don't even know if it gets that far, or if unburned gasoline still has lubricative properties.
Best,
>Allied Signal (well I had the first letters right
>anyway
). Wow. This is weird. I mistakenly said Allied Signal (who make Fram) and today I searched Google for "loss of prime in oil pump" and guess what? Allied Signal has an article on it. Check it out: http://cpgparts.alliedsignal.com/cpg/catalog/fram/legal/LossofPrime.pdf
>cylinder to some extent, but I was always thinking that the
>amount of fuel at idel could not be much, that the extra
>fuel in the cylinder would burn off, and that any that got
>past the rings would burn off once the engine is heated up.
Hopefully it would burn off.
>But then your point is a good one - is it counterproductive
>by 'washing' the cylinder walls clean with gasoline? I
>don't know. I don't even know if it gets that far, or if
>unburned gasoline still has lubricative properties.
I don't think the gasoline would have much lubricative property and after washing the oil off the cylinder walls you could get increased wear.
I'm just talking based on things I have heard and read mixed with what happend to those things in my head over the years. So I could be all wrong, but it is a good question and hopefully someone will shed more light. I just started a new thread to get some input on this it is in this forum and is titled, "Can cranking a non-starting engine put fuel into the oil." Let's see what the FTE experts say.
http://cpgparts.alliedsignal.com/cpg/catalog/fram/menu.html
If you pre-fill your filter, install it, then fill the crankcase, you trap air in the oil pump pickup tube from top to bottom because the oil in the oil filter acts as an air lock to prevent the air from escaping through it.
If you fill the crankcase before installing the oil filter, oil can rise into the oil pump pickup tube because the air can escape out the oil filter mounting hole.
I hope that I remember to use this sequence next time I change oil.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>crankcase, you trap air in the oil pump pickup tube from top
>to bottom because the oil in the oil filter acts as an air
>lock to prevent the air from escaping through it.
>
>If you fill the crankcase before installing the oil filter,
>oil can rise into the oil pump pickup tube because the air
>can escape out the oil filter mounting hole.
Good point Paul. I may try that too, but the danger is you may forget to put the filter on at all
. Guess you could set it up on the air cleaner housing as a reminder. Anyway I got an old-fashioned oil squirter (with the trigger and long skinny spout) at the hardware. When I told the guy what I wanted he said, "like your grandfather used to use?" Then he said he sells about one a year. Next oil change I will squirt full the pump outlet hole with 5w30 and put a filled oil filter on.>perhaps the most intersting thing is the Autolite
>connection.
>
Yup. My bad experience with Autolite spark plugs does not surprise me, since it is the same company as Fram. Many people think Autolite is interchangeable with Motorcraft, NOT! Bendix brakes are also from AlliedSignal. I dont want to risk my life with brakes from them.
Jim
>on. I can see a situation where the oil pump has difficulity
>priming itself after an oil change.
>
>If you pre-fill your filter, install it, then fill the
>crankcase, you trap air in the oil pump pickup tube from top
>to bottom because the oil in the oil filter acts as an air
>lock to prevent the air from escaping through it.
>
>If you fill the crankcase before installing the oil filter,
>oil can rise into the oil pump pickup tube because the air
>can escape out the oil filter mounting hole.
>
>I hope that I remember to use this sequence next time I
>change oil.
Very interesting - never occurred to me (and I'm still trying to fully grasp it) but it sounds like a "hot-lick" to me !
I'm going to take it under serious advisement!
Thanks pcmenten!
John.
The pre-luber would have to have a check valve and if that valve ever stuck open it would screw everything up. And the plumbing for a pre-luber would be outside the block where it is exposed to potential damage and more opportunity for loss of oil pressure.
I would do this for an expensive, close clearance engine but not for a daily driver.
BSS
I've run my system for a couple years now trouble free. I don't see a need for a check valve though, the pump is a positive displacement gear type. When the pump is off it acts as a positive stop. The switch is a spring return to "off" and it's powered by a starter relay (spare parts are handy!) I used hydraulic hose and fittings. Not that expensive and if heavy equipment can rely on it with high hydraulic pressure then my 20psi won't hurt it. I more worry about those relying on little nylon tubing for pressure gauges then the hydraulic hose failing.
Personal choice will dictate what everyone is comfortable with though. Maybe its as much the peace of mind when I spool up the pre-luber, since I've seen my fair share of high mileage motors that just do regular oil changes and normal maintenance without any fancy add ons.
John






