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I just read about running nylon air lines for your compressor. Apparently they're available at Eastwood along with the fittings.
The author mentioned that he had been through the black pipe system ( eventually rusts) as well as the PVC system ( exploded and apparently scared the *** out of him). So, he's not new to the issues.
Nylon is almost indestructible. I have used the nylon air line and fittings for fixing air lines on semi trucks. They also send that stuff with the firestone load helpers for light duty trucks. I think you should go with it.
I think there was a thread on this a little while back.
Set up your lines to drain properly, and run a filter/water separator at each drop and steel works great.
I think there was a thread on this a little while back.
Set up your lines to drain properly, and run a filter/water separator at each drop and steel works great.
Yep. What he said. It's best to shoot up high right away from the compressor and then slope down the long run to a drain. That gives water a chance to condense and drop out. If you are being real **** about it, make your air drops go up from the top of the main run and turn 180 deg back down. Less water gets into your tools that way and it can keep running to the drain point. Then put a 1/4 turn valve on the drain leg and open it every now and then.
I like copper for air lines as it can handle the pressure and is easier to deal with than threading iron. But either one works fine. Just avoid PVC unless you have a death wish. Haven't looked into the nylon, but it is used for air hoses a lot (the coiled retractable type are typically nylon).
Trucks use a type of nylon air line, and yes PVC is bad.
Here's a shot of a line that came apart at a shop I was working at:
It happened at night while nobody was there, and tore the paper off about a foot square area of drywall, and kicked that line hard enough it actually broke that run at the other end also. The missing pieces went through the foil-faced foam sheet in the ceiling.
That looks like PEX tubing with shark bite fitings thats used in plumbing. Its supposed to be able to handle 300 PSI if I remember correctly. I will still go with black iron. One thing you have to remember with air compressors and air lines (this is why I like black iron) is that its not necesarily about the PSI, but volume for your air tools. When I run my air lines, I always put a 2" x 3 to 4 foot pipe off the compressor (after the flex line off the compressor) then reduce to either 1" or 3/4", depending on how far the run is. Ultimately I always end with 3/4" tube. If you slope the pipe correctly, rust will never be an issue (they do use it for water as well) and install the proper water/oil seperators that will keep debris out of the tools.
It doesn't look like a bad idea. The one thing I would want to check, though, is if the path thru all the fittings is actually 1/2" at all points. The smallest point in the entire system determines maximum air flow. Also if you have a 1/2" line feeding a tee fitting with 2 more 1/2" lines attached to it and use both branches at the same time your air flow is cut in half. That's why in most larger facilities they use 3/4" or 1" main lines with 1/2" drops to the individual outlets. You can help with this problem by running a complete loop of tubing around the garage, connected to the compressor at both ends. Then splice in tee fittings feeding each drop. That way the drop is fed from both ends.
The thing you gotta be careful of is air leaks from the push in fittings. If the air line isn't cut square, or you pinch it as you cut with ... say, sidecutters, the fitting will leak 100% of the time.
That said, I'd have no problem setting up my shop with synflex. Quick and easy.
Yeah, those push in fittings are prone to leakage. I prefer the push in though, as long as I'm working with all new stuff. The nut and ferrule are pretty much guaranteed not to leak though.