So, i'm relocating my gas tank to the rear. Going with the frame rail set up. I found a mid 60's mustang 16 gal tank on e-gay that comes with fuel sender. i'm also, converting to 12v. When I change my gauges will there be a conflict with the sending unit?...for instance VDO has their own fuel sender along with guages. I want to use Dolphine or Auto meter...does it matter?...

 

Yes, there will probably be a discrepency. Here is a list of the ohm readings for some senders;

Type of Sender/Gage Reading Empty (Ohms) Reading Full (Ohms)
Most pre-1965 GM 0 30
Some GM trucks through 1968 0 30
Most 1965 and later GM 0 90
Most pre-1987 Fords and most Mopar 16 158
Ford pre-1987 bi-metallic gauges 10 70
Ford 1987 and later F-series trucks magnetic gauges15 160
Note: Ford Motorsport gauges made by Autometer require the Autometer sending unit # 3262 which operates at 240 ohms empty and 33 ohms full unlike the normal Ford compatible senders as detailed above.

I believe that most of the aftermarket gauges fall the 240Ohms empty and 33Ohms full category.

Bobby

 

Thanks Bobby, it seems it would be best to purchase the sending unit when I figure out with Gauges I want to go with...

 

I think that would be the easiest way to go.

Here is the entire "Fuel Tank FAQ" article that was posted here several times;
Fuel tank FAQ

1948-1952 Trucks
The mid-1980s Chevy Blazer tank works well in this case and comes in both 24 U.S. gallon and 31 U.S. gallon capacities. At least one member of this FTE 1948-1960 Forum has successfully used this tank setup.
Another alternative is the 1970 Mustang tank with a 22 U.S. gallon capacity. Apparently, the earlier Mustang tanks discussed below will work on the 1948-1952 F-1/F-100s as well. Since the distance between the frame rails is nearly identical, anything that fits the 1953-1956 models should also fit the 1948-1952 models.
If you want a larger tank, the 1980 through 1986 (and possibly through 1989) full sized Ford Bronco tank is worth looking at. At 33 U.S. gallons capacity, it measures 31.875” long x 22.25” wide x 15.75” deep in steel, and slightly smaller in the polymer version.
Other tanks which have been used, but for which we have little info are from the 1980s GM Suburban and 1984-1985 Isuzu Trooper.
1953-1956 Trucks
Stock replacement tanks for the original locations are available in polymer or stainless steel from Tanks Inc. and several other sources – but since they are limited production they tend to be expensive.
No discussion of suitable fuel tank alternatives for this range of years would be complete without highlighting the early Ford Mustang tank (1965-1970). Forum member John Niolon has thoroughly documented this tank as a replacement in an article at http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolo...mustangtank.htm (his web site has many other useful articles as well). The Mustang tank comes in three different capacities and all are easily obtained through www.gastanks.com or many Mustang oriented aftermarket suppliers. Another plus with this tank is that the Mustang sending unit will work fine with the stock 12v fuel gauge. A few minor nits however include 1) the inlet for filling the tank comes out the top at the rear, forcing you to bring it up through the bed 2) the filler pipe is approximately 0.75 inch off center towards the passenger side and 3) you may have to grind about a 0.5 inch off the bottom edge of your frame rails to fit the tank – although this is not a big deal. A lot of people have used this alternative, possibly more than any other single alternative.

Mustang Fuel Tank Installation


Yet another tank option is the full sized Chevy Van 1987-1995 fuel tank. It’s available in two different capacities – #GM8C (Spectra Premium Industries) has a 22 U.S. gallon capacity and a second version has a 33 U.S. gallon capacity. The difference between the two is the depth. The length and width are the same for both tanks. If you’re running fuel injection, you should be aware of the different system pressures that Ford and GM use. To avoid having to deal with this issue, with Ford engines use the non-EFI sending unit (#FG17A) and use an inline fuel pump. The 1990 Ford Ranger works well in this application. If you are running a GM power plant with EFI, then go the other way and use the EFI sending unit (#FG17B) which employs an in tank fuel pump and sending unit.


1987-1995 Full-Size Chevy Van Fuel Tank Installation
The 1977-1981 Chevy Van tank was offered in both 22 U.S. gallon capacity and a larger size as well. One of our FTE forum members (Tacson, AKA Donald Walker) has some excellent photos in his gallery which clearly show how well it fit and how he mounted it. The only difference between the newer tank used by Ferguson and the older model used by Walker is that the newer tank has the filler diagonally opposite the older tank. Walker used a slightly different mounting method – although both installations employed the original mounting straps for the tank.

1977-1981 Full-Size Chevy Van Fuel Tank Installation

Neither of the full-size Chevy van installations discussed above requires any cutting of the frame rails. However, both installations did require routing the filler tube through the frame rails.
The alternatives already listed provide ample, easily adapted, decent sized tanks. If you don’t mind admitting to using less cool sounding donors, then consider the following.
• The 1996-1999 Isuzu Trooper fuel tank – capacity unknown. There is a question about the availability of new sending units for this tank. However, at least one member of this forum has used it and there is an installation “how to” article in the June 1996 issue of Custom Classic Trucks.
• According to a few of our forum members, the 1961-1966 Ford Econoline Van tank is virtually identical to the early Mustang fuel tank – but the filler tube is on the driver’s side.
• Going back in time a little further, the 1957-1958 Ford passenger car fuel tank (Ford part# B7A9002B or www.gastanks.com part# F-34B) fits easily between the rails, holds 20 U.S. gallons, has a driver’s side filler, and can be purchased for about $200.
• Apparently the 1970 through 1977 Mavericks and Comets are similar to the Mustang tanks but the filler runs out the back.
• If you want to put the tank inside the frame and under the cab like the stock panel truck mounting location, an 1984 Ford Ranger supposedly works.
1957-1960 Trucks
Given the similarity in width of the rear frame rails for the 1957-1960 and 1948-1956 model years, anything listed for the earlier trucks should fit the 1957-1960 model years. Be aware, however, that no information on actual installations in the later year trucks is available at this time.
Classic Performance Products ( www.classicperform.com ) offers a tank that will fit under the bed of the 1957-1960 trucks. Again, since this is a limited production item, the cost is higher than a used tank would be. An alternative is an NOS 18 U.S. gallon tank, Ford part # COTB 9002-B available through Green Sales in Cincinnati, Ohio.
Fuel Tank Senders and Gages
A final consideration when using a newer or donor tank is compatibility of the sending unit with whatever gauges you plan to use. You may need to modify either the fuel sender or the fuel gage so that they have matching resistance characteristics. This can end up causing more grief than mounting the tank itself. The following information comes mainly from Autometer ( www.autometer.com ) and addresses the electrical characteristics of the OEM sending units.

Type of Sender/Gage Reading Empty (Ohms) Reading Full (Ohms)
Most pre-1965 GM 0 30
Some GM trucks through 1968 0 30
Most 1965 and later GM 0 90
Most pre-1987 Fords and most Mopar 16 158
Ford pre-1987 bi-metallic gauges 10 70
Ford 1987 and later F-series trucks magnetic gauges15 160
Note: Ford Motorsport gauges made by Autometer require the Autometer sending unit # 3262 which operates at 240 ohms empty and 33 ohms full unlike the normal Ford compatible senders as detailed above.


Here are a few more examples.

Randy Jack’s ’78 Bronco tank install (56 F100): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...4&albumid=24084

Tacson’s Chevy Van tank install (55 F 100): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=20494&width=0

John Niolon’s Mustang tank install (53 F100): http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolo...mustangtank.htm

Ferguson777’s Chevy tank install (54 F100):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=97344&width=0

bobbytnm’s Chevy tank install (49 F1):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=79496&width=0

DennisB side fill Mustang tank: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...1&albumid=28273


Bobby

 

most of the aftermarket kits can come with senders that match the gauges.. the senders don't fit many of the tanks we use tho!..

careful planning.. I used a mustang tank, but had a hole cut for the typical aftremarket sender to match the gauge I wanted to use. (240-33)

Sam

 

This is the correct answer.(IMHO)

 

I know in my case, adjusting the aftermarket sender to my stock '50 tank was quite a challenge but it can be done.

 

I would think all it would take is for you to make or buy and adapter plate. I did it on my 55 about a million years ago and it worked great. I don't recall it being too hard.

 

Yeap Julie, I spoke with Mid fifty, they said they sell the adapter plates, it is very simple as far as application...thanks!

 

From Mid fifty web site:

All that I could find on the Mid fiftys web site was stock tank to aftermarket adaptor, not mustang, please enlighten me from my ignorance oh greatest of all wizards?

 

C5ZZ9002D .. 16 Gallon Fuel Tank / Fits: 1965/68 Mustang

C8ZZ9275C .. Fuel Sending Unit / Fits: 1965/68 Mustang / 1964/65 Falcon

Make sure that tank is for a Mustang.

The Falcon fuel tank used 1964/65 looks similar, is 16 gallons, uses the same sender as the Mustang.

But, Falcons have the fuel filler neck on the left (drivers side) quarter panel.

 

Hi Old,

Actually I made mine. The original opening was a little too big and the screw pattern was different. I got a piece of sheet metal, cut a donut out of it and used sheet metal screws (which were offset from the tank holes and sat in farther) to hold down the sender and ground them smooth. I used a perminent gasket and sealer between the two. Then, I used the original sending unit screws to hold down the donut - with sender already attached, and a standard tank gasket so it could be removed as an assembly.

I would think also (although I have not done it) that the actual sending unit sender and float arm could be removed from it's original plate and mounted on a plate that fits the new tank - or vice cersa. If I'm not mistaken, I think the electrical post or a light spot weld is all that is holding them together.

As far as inventory that companies carry, I guess you will have to call around to find what they have. I know LMC sells replacement stock gauges for 12 volt stock type gauges - they are a little pricy in my opinion...But.....and i know C&G sells an adaptor plate - I doubt they will have one for every application - probably only one (s) that will adapt a particular gauge to a particular tank.


Hey, make a million $$$$ start making adaptor plates!

 

One more trick. Lets say you have a mustang tank w/ sender, and you buy a new guage w/ sender. Now, you two senders. One fits the tank,- and may or may not have the fuel pickup, and one works with the guage.
Fuel Guage 101: The little box on the fuel sender, the one that the float arm connects to, is called a potentiometer (pot). Thats the thing that 'sends' the information to the guage. The 'pot' gets its info from the float position.
So, one trick is to start with the mustang sender, and then remove the pot and float arm. Take the pot from the new guage sender and mount it to the mustang sender body. Mount it such a way that it sits about 1/2 way down in the tank, with the float arm level and in the middle of it's swing. Usually you can use the mount screws that come with the new sender. Then, Adjust the float arm so that it matches the tank depth, top/bottom, and trim off the rest. last, connect the wire to the pot. Now, you can put the modified mustang sender back in the tank, with the stock seal. No adapter needed, and you save a few bucks. works every time. :0)

 

Sorry, Bill. I respectfully disagree. The '60-'65 Falcon sedans and coupes all had the filler in the center of the tail panel just like the Mustangs. The Rancheros and wagons in those years did have a left side fill, though. In '66, I believe the filler moved to the left side for all Falcon models. If there's a difference between the '64-'65 Falcon tank and a '64-'68 Mustang tank, us Falcon guys aren't aware of it. It's common for us to shop for a replacement tank through the Mustang vendors. The Mustang tanks drop right in to a '64-'65 Falcon.

 

You're correct, dumb me was thinking of Ranchero's.