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Crossover steering 101

  #1  
Old 07-20-2009, 08:52 PM
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Crossover steering 101

Ok, times flying and needing to get this done. I'm in the process of moving and half my stuff is at my new place an hour away. I'm wanting to get the steering fixed on my 1979 ford f-250 with dana 44 front and 6 inch lift. I am finally commited to going with crossover vs. adjustable draglink. I don't want to drive the truck till the steering is where I feel it ought to be. But, with moving and work I have no time to mess with it not to mention my tools being spread out. So, I talked a buddy into do it for me. But, I need a parts list/write up on it. I've been searching but, have not found a clear cut write up. If I missed it then I apologize. I would really appreciate all the help I can get!

Thanks all,

Kyle
 
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:20 PM
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You'll have to either machine your passenger side knuckle and tap it for the aftermarket crossover steering arm or buy a kit. I would talk to 75f350 he knows more on this but you should also check out the site Northwest Fab they make all there stuff in house and it's top notch. They go into detail on all the benifits and everything. Ideal is to get the Dana 60 front as it's a direct bolt on arm and so much more worth it to invest money into. Problem is there expensive and hard to find.
 
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Old 07-21-2009, 02:42 PM
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I'm wanting to go the cheaper inverted t setup. Something about a 1979 f-150 pitman arm reindexed to fit my box and this...

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail

But, looking for a writeup on how it goes together.

Thanks,

Kyle
 
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:13 PM
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A write-up on how it goes together???

You screw the tie rod ends into the threaded tube and go.

If you have seen pics of inverted T steering it should make sense how everything in the pic in your link goes together.
 
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:24 PM
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I'd just do it right in the first place. Any machine shop can do the steering knuckle. Shouldn't be billed for much more than a hour or two.
 
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:12 PM
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I was reading somewhere else that the t setup won't work with leaf spring sup front and I have to go full crossover.
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:02 PM
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Why would it not?
The D60 front I grabbed out of an 84 F-350 had inverted T stock and it has leafs...
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:31 PM
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I have been studying this and asking a lot and measuring a lot and I am going to put the 77 f150 4x4 steering on my 76 250. Everything will work besides a new mounting plate for the box and I will need to buy a drop pitman arm for the inverted t steering to clear under my leaf. I will have to build a support for the shock absorber on the steering but that is minor. Tore my completely wore out steering off today and getting parts truck saturday so the fun can continue.
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:52 PM
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Ok after studying for a couple hours again today I don't need a drop pitman arm. The pitman will connect above the spring. What I am going to do is mount the box approx. 4" further back and remanufacture steering shaft accordingly. Then I will just modify the drag link to connect the pitman to the steering link b/w the tires to create my inverted t steering. I can't wait till tomorrow to get my parts truck to start building.
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:55 PM
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Just be sure you have clearance of the pitman arm from both the engine cross member during full lock turning right, and also the pitman arm to the leaf at full lock when the suspension is fully compressed.

Oh and shoot some pics as you go
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
Just be sure you have clearance of the pitman arm from both the engine cross member during full lock turning right, and also the pitman arm to the leaf at full lock when the suspension is fully compressed.

Oh and shoot some pics as you go

And we know this why Steve?????? Ha! that made me laugh.

Clearances are very inportant, another consideration os the clearance at the tie rod. If these intersect, and cross over each other, you may bind up during full suspension compression. Cycling the suspension several times is very important.
The spring moves the most towards the center and the closer you have anything to this can limit travel and / or bind up the works when driving, so check two or three times before you button everything down.
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
And we know this why Steve?????? Ha! that made me laugh.
Because I just went through it. You know dang well I cycled my suspension and checked everything (pics in my thread for those who want to see)

My cross member may be a tight one - but from what I could tell when I cycled mine - it will fit
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
Because I just went through it. You know dang well I cycled my suspension and checked everything (pics in my thread for those who want to see)

My cross member may be a tight one - but from what I could tell when I cycled mine - it will fit
I'd like to see your pics but evidently I'm not smart enough to find them. What is the easiest way to get the suspension at full compression while its sitting in the shop with the old steering tore off?
 
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:46 PM
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There we go. Now we are talking some tech!
Does it have anything to do with the original topic???? Why yes it does, well thats a first, lol.
Now this should start getting good, and 427 fordman should enjoy this, since he is right in the middle of this upgrade...........
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-2009, 06:53 PM
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dig through this a little bit. The pics are probably on page 5 or after by now
http://s453.photobucket.com/albums/q...ummins%20swap/

As for cycling the suspension - I did mine with the truck pretty much apart.

take out all the leafs in the leaf pack but the main leaf and replace them with a block that makes up the same height. I used a 2x4 and another piece of 3/8" or so on mine.

Set the truck on jackstands with the front end free.
Since you're mainly concerned with compression on what you are doing here you don't have to jack the truck way up and put it really high on jack stands.

Now put a jack under the front axle and jack up the front end until you hit full bump/compression. This is often easier with the shocks off.
 

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